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Discussion Starter #1
Here is a pic of the deck showing how the main halyard is brought back to the cockpit.

If I wanted to do the same with a second line (new rigid boomvang), how would you do it? Just add a second stand up block and flat block?

Or should I remove the single flat block and replace it with a double, or even triple for later expansion?

i didn't show the winch and cleat in the cockpit for the main halyard. The boomvang came with a rope clutch that I'll install next to the winch and cleat.

 

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Mark

You could change the single stand up block for a double. You could either replace the flat block with a double or replace it with a deck organizer. I would choose the organizer which will keep the lines closer to the deck and spread the load over more fasteners.The problem I see is that the load in the stand up block will increase. It is considered by many to be not a great idea to put a lot of upward force on the deck in this way though.
 

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Why bother...the vang doesn't get adjusted very often, except perhaps when racing in a breeze. On many boats I sail, you dont need to touch the vang all day unless you are putting a reef in, in which case you are usually going forward anyway. Is there much payback for solving this question?
 

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I'd change the existing blocks to handle more lines: the fewer holes in the deck the better. Don't forget you'll need a mounting point on the bottom of the mast for the vang though (may be there but the pic doesn't show it). Your brightwork looks awesome by the way.
 

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Changing that single block to a double may work, but I'd worry a bit about the two different leads (from the current halyard on the mast and from the vang, which would typically run low from the base of the mast.

Depending on the vang, you might get away with simply a deck organizer, and run direct from the vang to that, leading the vang on the inside. Leave the halyard in the standup, lead it through the second sheave on the organizer. If you're going to do that I'd get a triple organizer for the future.
 

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I would not run the vang thru a double where the current deck sheave is. But a new one at the base of the mast, or not at all as faster points out, to a deck organizer where the current cheek block is located. You might be able to put another block on the top of this one. Sometimes you can double this up, as you can with organizers. The top row is rated to about half the lower. I have double quads on my boat. the lowers have the higher tension lines, like halyards, the upper lower ones like reef lines, vang etc.

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Having another look, I think I'd be better off running the new line on the port side. Then I could mount a 3-way (or more) deck organiser and a matching rope clutch to the left of the sliding hatch. The right side of the hatch is cluttered up with the winch and cleat for the main halyard.
 

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I installed a rigid vang on my boat this spring and used the same set up as you have for your main halyard. In my case the halyard was a spare for the jib, so I just cleated it at the mast and used the stand up and turning block for the vang. It works perfect. If I were to install new I would add a 2 or 3 part turning block even if you do not need it now. I do not need a winch for the vang, but I do adjust it under sail more than I thought, so binging it back is good.

I second the comment on your boat, looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I installed a rigid vang on my boat this spring and used the same set up as you have for your main halyard. In my case the halyard was a spare for the jib, so I just cleated it at the mast and used the stand up and turning block for the vang. It works perfect. If I were to install new I would add a 2 or 3 part turning block even if you do not need it now. I do not need a winch for the vang, but I do adjust it under sail more than I thought, so binging it back is good.

I second the comment on your boat, looks great.
Thanks for the compliment!

I suspect that, if it's easy to adjust the boomvang, it'll get adjusted more often.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, the bright work is amazing. What is your secret?
The teak is varnished but it has a full set of covers for the brightwork, that minimise sun exposure. That's the secret, keeping the sun off as the sun destroys both the varnish and ages the wood beneath.

Some credit must go to the first owner, who ordered every available extra brightwork option! Teak dorade boxes, boarding ladder, rubbing strips, deeper toe rails, etc.

 
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