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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I'm looking at a boat for next season. I'm leaning toward CS 30, 33 or a C&C 30-2 or maybe 34 (77-87). The biggest difference here I know is the solid glass hull on the CS. That said there's many considerations between these boats. But, looking at the C&C's both the 30-2 & the 34 have cored hulls. However, from what I've read so far the 34 is taking a lot more heat for its cored hull then the 30-2 is. Can anyone tell me why this is? That's not to say the 30-2 hasn't taken any heat, there's comments about blistering & osmosis for it as well but there seems to be a lot more for the 34. Why is this? Is the core different in the 30-2? Is the 34 unique in some way that resulted in it being more susceptible to this? Or did I just hit some bad sites so far that isn't giving me a accurate depiction?

Tx

Eoin
 

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The 34 was one of C&C's first mass-produced cored hulls. In addition to the cored hull, the design reflected the switch from a swept back keel (ala shark fin) secured to a solid glass stub, to a NACA (near vertical leading edge) style fin, attached directly through the hull bottom to an internal frame. A friend bought one new in 1978, and hit a rock during the first season (a very common occurrence in Boston racing circles), and when hauled at the end of the season, the little hull crack at the back of the keel wept for weeks...
A dozen or so older design C&Cs (including my '77 C&C 30 Mark I) each had bounced over the same rock, with no particular injury other than pride..
The C&C 30 Mark II is a beautiful, more contemporary boat, as is the CS30, I be happy to own either.
 

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Freedom isn't free
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The C&C 30-2 would be my choice. The older 34 not so much. I know nothing of the CS, but you know I have brand bias.

I'll trade you the 30-2 for my 32 :)
 

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I owned a 30MKI then a 30MKII. The 30MKII is IMHO the best all around 30 ft racer cruiser ever designed. It has an aft cabin, a walk through transom, as comfortable a head as any in her class, and a very capable sail plan. I'd call it a quick cruiser, as it's not the fastest boat in the fleet but it's well made and fun to sail or spend a couple weeks aboard. Thanks Rob Ball RIP.

Some things to consider are what hardware the boat was equipped with as there had been(I could be wrong) three packages from the factory. Look at draft of 5 or 6 ft, cabin top vs cockpit traveler, self tailing/conventional cockpit winches, spinnaker gear. The cockpit traveler allows one to tweak the main from behind the wheel without moving forward to the cabin top.

They are a bit tender so reef the main early but quick in light air.

The 30MKI ... that is a tank without the modern aspects but great in a blow... 12 years never reefed that skinny main, she just plowed through just about anything.
 

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I don't know anything about the boats you highlighted, but, I have experience with a C&C 36. This boat has solid fiberglass below the waterline. I have had no issues with the hull. The deck is balsa cored and here is where I have had issues. I mention this because the boats you are looking at may also have cored decks. After finding 2 spots with wet balsa I removed everything bolted through the deck and filled the area around the holes with epoxy. This was a lot of work, but, it didn't cost much.
 

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I don't know anything about the boats you highlighted, but, I have experience with a C&C 36. This boat has solid fiberglass below the waterline. I have had no issues with the hull. The deck is balsa cored and here is where I have had issues. I mention this because the boats you are looking at may also have cored decks. After finding 2 spots with wet balsa I removed everything bolted through the deck and filled the area around the holes with epoxy. This was a lot of work, but, it didn't cost much.
The 17 C&C 36's I've surveyed were balsa below the waterline to within 18" of the keel.
C&C says they were balsa cored hulls. C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center
 

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Hi everyone. I'm looking at a boat for next season. I'm leaning toward CS 30, 33 or a C&C 30-2 or maybe 34 (77-87). The biggest difference here I know is the solid glass hull on the CS. That said there's many considerations between these boats. But, looking at the C&C's both the 30-2 & the 34 have cored hulls. However, from what I've read so far the 34 is taking a lot more heat for its cored hull then the 30-2 is. Can anyone tell me why this is? That's not to say the 30-2 hasn't taken any heat, there's comments about blistering & osmosis for it as well but there seems to be a lot more for the 34. Why is this? Is the core different in the 30-2? Is the 34 unique in some way that resulted in it being more susceptible to this? Or did I just hit some bad sites so far that isn't giving me a accurate depiction?

Tx

Eoin
I have no comment on sailing abilities but having surveyed over 200 C&C's and 150 CS's ... I consider the CS's better built and more consistently built boat.

If you have a concern about balsa I have two articles for you....
Moisture Meter Mythology

Balsa = Compost
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys. Lots of good info here. I know we could talk at length about cored hull vs glass. But I'm wondering about the difference between the 34's cored hull and the 30-Mk-2's? Does the 30 MK-2 core not go down to the keel like the 34's? The reason I ask is the 34 seems to have more soggy core stories then does the 30 MK-2. Is the reason in the keel design mentioned by sailing fool above? Or is there not as much core in the 30 MK-2? Or, has there been other design changes to the 30 MK-2's cored hull as compared to the 34's resulting from C&C's then 8 years of experience dealing with the cored hull on the 34? Like less core, or full glass in trouble prone areas or something? Ultimately resulting in a less trouble prone cored hull for the 30 MK-2?
 

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Thanks for all the replies guys. Lots of good info here. I know we could talk at length about cored hull vs glass. But I'm wondering about the difference between the 34's cored hull and the 30-Mk-2's? Does the 30 MK-2 core not go down to the keel like the 34's? The reason I ask is the 34 seems to have more soggy core stories then does the 30 MK-2. Is the reason in the keel design mentioned by sailing fool above? Or is there not as much core in the 30 MK-2? Or, has there been other design changes to the 30 MK-2's cored hull as compared to the 34's resulting from C&C's then 8 years of experience dealing with the cored hull on the 34? Like less core, or full glass in trouble prone areas or something? Ultimately resulting in a less trouble prone cored hull for the 30 MK-2?
None of the C&C 30 models had any core in the hulls. Where are you getting your information on this issue ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Boatpoker, maybe i'm wrong which would answer all this lol. On the C&C photo album page, C&C Brochures, 30Ft MK-2(b) it describes the hull as "..... cored forward panels..". Also, few different threads I've read there's been talk of the cored hull on the 30 MK-2 but very little soggy core stories as compared to the 34's.
 

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Boatpoker, maybe i'm wrong which would answer all this lol. On the C&C photo album page, C&C Brochures, 30Ft MK-2(b) it describes the hull as "..... cored forward panels..". Also, few different threads I've read there's been talk of the cored hull on the 30 MK-2 but very little soggy core stories as compared to the 34's.
There is about (from memory) 5' X 2.5' of balsa in the topsides forward for hull stiffening. Several CS models did this also.These core panels are well above the waterline and I've never seen a wet one.

The C&C 34 has a fully cored hull with the exception of the area immediately surrounding the keel and the rudder post. Sometimes they relieved the balsa around throughulls, sometimes they didn't. This is one of the reasons I prefer the CS line. C&C were not consistent whereas Paull Tennyson drew up a QC program on day 1 and stuck to it. The CS line is not perfect but if you've surveyed one CS model you've pretty much surveyed them all (owner changes excepted),
 

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LOL, after reading those articles maybe I shoudl get into wood working instead Haha! Kidding, but i will limit my boat search to FRP hulls!
When we were shopping for a "final" boat, we were cautioned by a couple of surveyors to try to avoid cored hulls, in general. We ended up with an Olson 34 (constructed by Ericson Yachts). Like the Ericson's of the 80's, our hull is solid layup. Never a problem and we have owned it since '94.

About those C&C 34's, I have several friends that have owned one for years, and they are a great sailing 'modern classic' boat... It's Unfortunate about possible hull coring problems, but I doubt that C&C really intended to build in any future problems. After all these decades, maybe if you find a good one, it will remain dry. (?)
 

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When we were shopping for a "final" boat, we were cautioned by a couple of surveyors to try to avoid cored hulls, in general. We ended up with an Olson 34 (constructed by Ericson Yachts). Like the Ericson's of the 80's, our hull is solid layup. Never a problem and we have owned it since '94.

About those C&C 34's, I have several friends that have owned one for years, and they are a great sailing 'modern classic' boat... It's Unfortunate about possible hull coring problems, but I doubt that C&C really intended to build in any future problems. After all these decades, maybe if you find a good one, it will remain dry. (?)
I had a conversation with George Cuthbertson a few years before he died. Balsa bottoms were well known for problems for many years by that time.

I asked him why they built with balsa in the bottom, his response ..." It never occurred to us that they'd still be around 40 years later. How many people are driving 40yr old cars ? ".
 
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