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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a C&C 35 MK III and want to install a shower. Two question; Does the water circulating through the Yanmar 3GM raw water cooled engine sufficient to heat or at least "warm" the water and where have people installed th shower sump and pump?
 

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Congrats! I own an 83 Mk III. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.
You should sign up at cncphotoalbum.com for C&C specific questions.
I have a FWC engine and hot water heater. If the engine is running I have a good supply of hot water. A 6 gallon heater makes for a quick shower dockside!
If there is a teak grate in the head the space below that is the sump. There should be a pick-up and hose on that leads to a pump under the sink. I believe the discharge is next to the bilge pump discharge on the port side. There is a pull switch and a separate breaker for the shower sump. Had to replace my pump this year.
 

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Thank you. I'm planning on installing a 6 gallon ISO Temp, all stainless steel water heater (since it will be salt water running throgh it) so it's great to know that will be sufficient. There is a sump under a grate but no hose leading out from it. From what you wrote it looks like I'll need to run a hose from the sump to the space under the sink and then run the outlet hose to the sink drain thru hull.
Thanks again for the input.
Dave
 

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Raw water cooled engine run considerably cooler than fresh water engines. I suspect you will not be happy with the heater performance. Congrats on the boat!!
 

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I have an old 35 III 84.
My boat used to have a water heater but it has been removed I guess it failed. I was wondering where it was. and what cost for a new one.
My engine is FWC. how does the cooling water run to heater.
 

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I have an old 35 III 84.
My boat used to have a water heater but it has been removed I guess it failed. I was wondering where it was. and what cost for a new one.
My engine is FWC. how does the cooling water run to heater.
Most engines have plugs located on the heat exchanger of the engine. These plugs are removed and hose adapters are installed in their place. Hoses are then run to the heat exchanger.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With respect to what water heater to use, for a raw water cooled engine I'm going to use a 6 gallon ISOTEMP which is all stainless construction and riuns around $700. More expensive then some others but should have a longer life than any that do not have stainless cold throughwhich the raw water passes. An additional advantage ofthe ISOTEMP is that it can be mounted in various ways even to a bulkhead.
 

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Surprised to learn that C&C would have installed a RWC engine of that size... Did they do this routinely on 'Lake' boats??
 

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With respect to what water heater to use, for a raw water cooled engine I'm going to use a 6 gallon ISOTEMP which is all stainless construction and riuns around $700. More expensive then some others but should have a longer life than any that do not have stainless cold throughwhich the raw water passes. An additional advantage ofthe ISOTEMP is that it can be mounted in various ways even to a bulkhead.
I think you are missing my point. The max raw water cooling water should be around 165 F and fresh water systems commonly run around 190 F. So there is a lot more heat available in a fresh water system.

The raw water heat will work fine on a long motor, but will require a substantial run time if you are thinking about running the engine for a bit to heat up some water.

As far as the ISOTEMP goes they are great units, I wish there was one in my boat. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OPIE,
No, I understand completely and realize that the raw water cooled engines run cooler, in fact I've heard numbers as low as 130. I'm good with that. Running the engine for a while and/or "warm" water is just fine.
Thanks,
Dave
 

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Thank you. I'm planning on installing a 6 gallon ISO Temp, all stainless steel water heater (since it will be salt water running throgh it) so it's great to know that will be sufficient. There is a sump under a grate but no hose leading out from it. From what you wrote it looks like I'll need to run a hose from the sump to the space under the sink and then run the outlet hose to the sink drain thru hull.
Thanks again for the input.
Dave

Ours is similar to Jaronson. Beneath our grate is the hose which runs under the vanity where the pump is located. We actually have a 3 way valve there. one to the [ump. opne to the shower sump and one has a 10 ft coil of hose which can be used as an emergency bige pump. Most of the time the valve is set to pass from the sump to the pump. Leading out of the pump the 1/2 inch hose leads behind the port sette and out a thru hull way above the water line right below the cove stripe.

There is a strainer under the sump at the end of the 1/2 inch hose and also an inline one before the pump. I wouldnt run the hose all the way back to the sink as thats a lot of water in the line and a great distance.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for this information. Saltaire was built without a drain in the shower basin/floor so now I need to run a hose from the shower basin up to where I will put a pump, and probably a 3 way valve as you described. So, like Joel's does you hose exit the foward side of the shower basin and then turn to port and go up under the sink? Is that, like the hose going out from the pump also a 1/2" diameter hose. Do you think it's feasible to snake a hose from the basin to the cabinet under the sink or will I need to cut the floor? Finally, why do you think the distance to the sink is long. The pump to the head sink drain would be very short. What am I missing.

Thanks for your help,
Dave
 

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I thought you meant the galley sink..sorry. No the run isnt that long, but why pump shower water to another sink/ basin, when you can pump it directly overboard.

Another few thoughts. If the pump is a good high volume one like ours it might actully fill the basin before it could drain, also our sink drains fairly slowly when we are on a port tack as it must be partially under water, On our trips offshore many times we shower while underway. Lastly I metnion we had a 3 way valve so we could have a thrid way to dewater the boat in an emergency. Dewatering meaning pumping it directly overboard.
 
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