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yes...I would not run the engine

take off manifolds...descale and clean exhaust ports well also clean all your water flow passages

you are deifinitely gunked up...the blue smoke could of been from overheating every time you got restricted flow in the system
 

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WORD

a tip on emulsion tubes is to remove them and soak them in a cleaning solution

to not attempt to use dowels or sharp objects or anything that is harder than brass

not only will you damage them physically you will damage flow and precise metering not unlike a jet or in EFI the tip of the injector

do not use 3m pads either as they score the tubes and again mess with flow

I have always had GREAT results by either buying deep claen carb cleaner solution or boiling all brass and or metal or die cast parts in pinesol then let sit overnight

you can also invest in ultrasonic cleaning

what rich says is spot on...

you scale and slab rust as he calls it is what I was reffering to. its also very possible again that your blue smoke was heat related and not even close to being carb related

for the most part blue smoke can always be associated with overheating and bad piston rings aka "oi burningl" in engines with valve stem seals this first...

again caused by overheating or drying up of the seals.

the common black smoke I have found on a4s is mostlt from bad timing using the points systems...basically owners dont adjust as frequently as they should per the manual. best bet is to go electronic if you havent already done so

you need a ballast resistor on some conversions.

on the a4 you will have best luck fixing your engine by taking off manifolds, and cleaning all passages once water flow is restored to stock or better and water pump is working correctly AND exhaust system is clear you are good to go on carb work

number 1 rule on engine diagnosing is to fix ONE THING AT A TIME. that way you can pinpoint fault and check improvements in gradual steps.

this is ESPECIALLY TRUE of carb work and TUNING.

the good news is the a4 carb is so damn simple.
 
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Yes an electronic kits are great. I had an old MG with one on it, and it would start first crank every time, well every time the starter would crank! But if I was on a hill it always started as I rolled down it!
same here with my old honda cb750...I converted to dyna eletronic ignition...started in a nano second

however racers complained that they lost some power which was true on some bikes and ask any norton racer and they said the same points can be made to make more or less power provided you know what you are doing

anyways:)
 
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