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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello..
I'm new here and dont know a whole lot about sailboat restoration. About to pick up a 72 catalina 22 today that looks like it needs a little cosmetic work.
first question (more to come probably)...
1. Im gonna paint the hull. I want to get the boat off the trailer up high enough so that I can lower and paint the swing keel. What is the easiest way to go about this? is there a cheaper way than buying a bunch of boat stands to go around the outside? thanks
 

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69' Coronado 25
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I had a Catalina 30, good boats, still able to get parts and great owners assoc. I started out in a trailer sailor (MacGregor) and that is a great way to start out especially being able to take the boat home. I now have a Coronado 25 which is old and heavy but strong, I could trailer it but at 4500# I would need a truck and a heavy duty trailer etc... I do miss the smaller lighter trailer sailor. You will have a blast with C22.
 

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Hello..
I'm new here and dont know a whole lot about sailboat restoration. About to pick up a 72 catalina 22 today that looks like it needs a little cosmetic work.
first question (more to come probably)...
1. Im gonna paint the hull. I want to get the boat off the trailer up high enough so that I can lower and paint the swing keel. What is the easiest way to go about this? is there a cheaper way than buying a bunch of boat stands to go around the outside? thanks
You may try some dedicated C22 sites for more feedback/suggestions.

You have to get the boat quite high in the air to get the wing keel completely lowered... You could build a wood cradle and drop the SK and paint and service all the working parts while you have it apart.

Depending on your location, maybe you can find someone that would be willing to rent stands to you..
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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Google Catalina owners for two good user group forums.

Dropping the swing keel is doable but a PITA. However worth doing as older ones have lost keels through pivot point wear.

I had a great time with my 22, sailed it up and down West Scotland and the Adriatic.
 

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adam,
Is it in a boatyard? If so; place high on jackstands to do the keel work. If it home; that's a different matter. You can build a lift with 6X6's and 2x6s with 2 winches and do a nice job of lifting the boat. It may be cheaper to do it in a yard. I'd have to draw it out as it's to complicated to write up. Think pole barn in a way. I have seen lifts for sale on line for this purpose(not cheap). Can't remember where. Like previous posters said you have to get it high off the ground to do keel work. Do you really need to do the keel work? Just painting you could probably figure out a way to lift off the trailer for paint.
Remember; think safety. Picking the boat 6' in the air while your underneath it is no small matter.
 

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Fortuitous
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You can paint the vast majority of the keel just as it is. There's not much that's tucked away. Depending on your trailer, you might be able to lower it a little to expose more of it too.

If you wanted to truly paint all of it, you'd have to completely remove it, which is far more elaborate job.
 

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my two cents, with safety and convenience as my primary thoughts, is to check marinas and local boatyards to find a good price to have it put on jacks for the time it takes to do all the bottom work.

it will be safer than working under a boat you rig a way to block up and it will be much easier to access all parts of the boat. they usually will have electricity and water at your disposal. you will probably be responsible for removing all of your waste. plus, they probably won't mind giving you a bit of guidance, as you work.

that would give you a chance to do a good job and thoroughly inspect the whole boat. if your boat has through hulls, you will want to check them out well.

just a bit of advice:

check all of the wiring really well. there is a lot of good info on how wiring should be done, on line. old things ( like houses, bikes, and boats ) tend to have had previous owner electrical modifications and they usually aren't done well.

i'd put bottom paint on it, if it doesn't already have it. that way, if you decide to keep it on the water, you would have that option.

check your standing rigging for condition and tune. i found a rigger to go aloft and inspect, and tune, mine for $100. peace of mind that i don't have a disaster waiting to happen is wort that much. it's not good if you have a shoud give way.:)

if you have halyards that are partially steel cable, very common in the 70s, and it has any bad spots on the cable, replace it with high quality, low stretch line ( rope ), for the whole length of the halyard. i am restoring a 1971 cal 27 and that's what i am doing with my halyards. i did find one metal strand of one of the halyards had broken close to the shackle. i wouldn't ignore that if it was a motorcycle clutch cable so i definately am not going to ignore it in my halyards.

look for gel blisters. west marine has booklets that you can buy that explains how to repair that kind of thing, if you don't know how.

check your fiberglass for delamination. there are ways to fix that, if you find you have that problem.

if your boat doesn't have a topping lift, rig one up. it makes a difference.

and ask questions, here, if you have them. there are a lot of good people who are really nice and more than glad to help you out.
 

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Asleep at the wheel
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If, by "paint the hull" you mean put on bottom paint, then by all means follow the suggestions here. If you mean the "topsides" (i.e., anything above the water line) I'd suggest doing a lot more research before undertaking that work. I have a painted hull, and it needs to be sanded down and re-done.
 

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any painting that gets done on a boat or a car or ....anything but the walls in your house, really....is going to require some sort of sanding/surface prep. that's definately true. that goes for bottom paint, too. otherwise, paint will not adhere properly. just put a new layer of paint on your boat and you will not only get a poor appearance but you will get to see it come back off rather quickly, too.

assuming you don't know a lot about boat related paints, if you are doing bottom paint, you will have to take a bit of time considering what type to use. if the boat already has bottom paint, that needs redone, you have to either remove what you have completely or choose a compatable paint. there are different bottom paints that each work differently. each has it's benefits and it's down side.

westmarine has and adisor feature on their website. it's good for explaining a lot of that kind of thing. you may want to check that out before you do your restoration. it will help your general understanding.
 

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Captain Obvious
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I plan on doing this soon. My plan of attack is to jack and block the boat up about 2' above the bunks its on. You don't need to lower the swing keel all the way just a couple of feet - to get it out.

You can unbolt it and then slide it out on boards.
 

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I am really interested in your progress. I am new to sailnet, have just acquired a 79 sprit 23 footer which I will need to reinstall the swing keel. my plan is to dig a shallow trench anfd slide the swing keel into it, then park the boat over the trench. I will support the back of the boat on a very large stryofoam block and use stands on each side of the boat with supporting straps to lift up the front, then pull the trailer out and lift the centerboard into place.
 

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If it were me, I wouldn't worry about the swing keel unless its in need of attention. If you have rollers on your trailer, just paint your hull on the trailer, you can roll it back and forth for full coverage.
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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I guess you could say the swing keel needs attention. It was dismounted and laying in the floor of the cockpit when I bought the boat 2 weeks ago. The lift cable is missing but the pin is still in the shoal keel. The trailer has no rollers so the only way I can paint over the bunks is to lift the boat a few inches. No real problem. I have painted boat bottoms many times including an old Chris Craft
Thanks so much for your reply and interest.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry it took so long to get back. Bottom paint looks like it has a fairly thick coat in good condition but the Keel has a little rust on it and needs to be cleaned up and recoated. If I were to change the standing rigging could I just use stainless steel wire from Home Depot? If so, what thickness? Also, my plan of attack is to clean up the paint above the water first and repaint it. I'm also going to repaint the deck but I don't want to sandthe bumpy grip coating so I was thinking about using a wire barbecue brush, does that sound like a good idea? I also want to take the wallpaper type stuff off the walls in the cabin and resand the entire thing to repaint it because there is some discoloration does anyone think that's a good idea and if so what should I use? Thanks in advance and thanks for all the input!!!
 

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Sorry it took so long to get back. Bottom paint looks like it has a fairly thick coat in good condition but the Keel has a little rust on it and needs to be cleaned up and recoated. If I were to change the standing rigging could I just use stainless steel wire from Home Depot? If so, what thickness? Also, my plan of attack is to clean up the paint above the water first and repaint it. I'm also going to repaint the deck but I don't want to sandthe bumpy grip coating so I was thinking about using a wire barbecue brush, does that sound like a good idea? I also want to take the wallpaper type stuff off the walls in the cabin and resand the entire thing to repaint it because there is some discoloration does anyone think that's a good idea and if so what should I use? Thanks in advance and thanks for all the input!!!
i could be wrong about this, but i really don't think home depot wire will work. the stays are no place to skimp. if one of them were to give way, you could lose the whole mast. if it were me, i'd get the proper materials from a rigger or other reputable source...and i go as inexpensively as possible.

a wire brush is only good for knocking off loose flaking paint. you still need to scuff it for paint to stick right. get 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sand the surfaces to be painted. you won't need to sand too much material from the textured surface; just scuff it up.

i can't give you a recommendation about the 'wallpaper type stuff'. i don't own one of those boats to give you advice specific to them. my boat has paint inside and i have been sanding it off to repaint. i have no idea what you mean by 'wallpaper type stuff'. sorry.
 

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hello...
ive been reading a little about deck painting. the nonskid bumps look to be in decent shape. can i scuff it up and paint over it? what paint should I use? how many coats?
thanks
they make non-skid deck paint. i answered the question about scuffing in my last post. as far as number of coats and stuff, follow manufacturer instructions.

as i suggested before, i would recommend you go to west marine's website and use their advisor section. they have a lot of info on their site. in addition, you could go to west marine or another boat supply store and ask them for recommendations. most of those places have someone on their staff that knows a little bit. also, boat repair and restoration places might be wiling to give you advice, too.

when i can, i will look to see if i can find you some informative links.

just remember, although marine paints have some specific rules, most forms of painting have some of the same basic rules:

lightly scuff the area to be painted to insure good adhesion

then

thoroughly clean the area to be painted. alcohol is a good cleaner. avoid soaps; which may leave residue. once it's clean, avoid touching the surface with your fingers. the oils from your fingers may cause you problems.
 
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