SailNet Community banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want to install an outboard motor to my c27 1981 with A4 engine. I'd like to know if the transom is capable of supporting the weight of the motor and motor mount. I tapped the transom and it sounds hollow??? I expected a more solid sound. Does the transom need additional beefing up?
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
Installing a significant backing plate to where the motor mount is being mounted is probably not a bad idea. 3/4" plywood or preferably fiberglass, would be a good solid backing plate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,680 Posts
I doubt the transom is "hollow", although it may be cored with plywood. I like the suggestion of beefing it up with a backing plate. Plywood would probably be okay -- be sure to seal it with epoxy.

How is it done on outboard versions of the C27? Or is there a transom cut-out?


P.S. This thread moved to Gear and Maintenance -- per SD&C guidelines. No worries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Sparky, as one who has a 270 Buccaneer outboard version and have just salvaged a Buccaneer 277 inboard version to convert the 270... I'll express what I saw between the two.

The outboard version is beefed up on the port side of the transom with a additional layer of 3/4 in ply, screwed and I assume glued in. It is not however glassed in as I would have expected. The inboard version did not have this added beef up. Similarly the inboard version was beefed up in the bottom where the motor mounts were. I'll be having to mod mine here to strengthen it when I convert. I'll keep the outboard and when I use it on Lake Erie, it'll be nice to have the redundancy... especially since its 30 year old equipment.

Examine yours... if Catelina was like all the rest... if it didn't really need something.. it doesn't have it. If your transom is just 'glass I'd bed in a 3/4 or even two sheets of plywood depending on the size and weight of your outboard. Your only doing one so it costs next to nothing to add the extra rgidity. I'd then glass them in at least all the way around and especially along the sides into the side section of the hull.

Research glassing. There are surface preps you need to do to get a good bond to the old surface with the new resin... Its critical. just on principle try to minimize any through hull borings. If you already have a layer of plywood in the trans... watch your fastener length... you do not want to penetrate the outer hull glass.


Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Oh, if your transom is sufficiently curved.. you may have to laminate multiply sheets of thin plywood to build up a sufficient thickness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,336 Posts
I want to install an outboard motor to my c27 1981 with A4 engine. I'd like to know if the transom is capable of supporting the weight of the motor and motor mount. I tapped the transom and it sounds hollow??? I expected a more solid sound. Does the transom need additional beefing up?
Have you considered rehabilitating your A4?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
The transom is not hollow. It is solid glass no cored ply wood. He means that there is a lazarette prior to the transom which is a hollow cavity. That is where the out boards are mounted if the boat comes from the factory with an outboard. In the factory they cut a hold in the transom for the shaft of the outboard.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top