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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, I have a 35 Morgan, 1971. Cleaned and sanded the toerails, which leak a little and don't have the time or inclination to rebed toerail at this time. Gonna put a little bead of caulk on the inboard side, joining toerail to glass deck. Any suggestions for what type to use? I've read about all the different types, just like to hear some suggestions and maybe why's. Thanks, Kevin
 

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Caulking the way you suggest may not help much if at all and could create new pockets for water to collect. But, if that is what you want to do use 4200 because it will remain flexible and can be removed if/when the job is done right. Water may be getting in from the outboard side.
-CH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Chas H, 4200 was what I was thinking. I do plan to do the toerail, problably next winter. Just can't get to it this year. So much other work to do to be able to enjoy the boat. I am going to rebed stanchions in the next few weeks and I think most of the leaks are there. In fact, I might hold off on caulking the toerail until I finish the stanchions and see how the leaks are then. Sounds like a plan... Thanks again, Kevin
 

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Getting sealant back off the deck and the teak is going to be a nightmare. After getting sealant on the teak, I doubt it will weather or take a coating the same in those spots. No time to do it right, but there will be time to do it over?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup, Chas H, Got me two rolls from Mainsail, a couple of months ago. Read his tutorial. Gonna do it tomorrow, or start, anyways. Shouldn't take too long. I'll start on the side with the leaks and see how it goes. Maybe I'll get lucky and that will solve my leak problem. Thanks for the help. Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Removing stanchions...

So, I started looking at getting the 3 midboat stanchions out. Ouch! Looks to me like I'll have to cut some access through the "liner"? No way I'm gonna get a wrench on those nuts and be able to get them off within the week. I can barely touch them with my fingers and have a 1/2 inch between the deck and the liner. And, since I don't want to turn the screw head while tightening them down, I will need access. Just as well, then I can redo them whenever! Right? Cover em up with a picture or something. Won't be able to see them unless your looking for them. Any other ideas are welcome. Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stanchions...

Forgot to mention, bent over in the fetal position in the aft quarter berth to get to the back stanchion, while feeling blindly for the bolts! Ouch, my back was hurting today. Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dear Mr. Rat, You are correct. I didn't think about magic fingers! But, "They" say, " you shouldn't turn the screw head to tighten it down." But, I might try that. Still wouldn't be easy. Not much space there. I think I'll try it, just to see if I can get the vise grip on there. Thanks, Kevin
 

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Re: Removing stanchions...

So, I started looking at getting the 3 midboat stanchions out. Ouch! Looks to me like I'll have to cut some access through the "liner"? No way I'm gonna get a wrench on those nuts and be able to get them off within the week. I can barely touch them with my fingers and have a 1/2 inch between the deck and the liner. And, since I don't want to turn the screw head while tightening them down, I will need access. Just as well, then I can redo them whenever! Right? Cover em up with a picture or something. Won't be able to see them unless your looking for them. Any other ideas are welcome. Kevin
When I bought my boat there were two rather large holes cut in the liner to mount a rope clutch and winch. I covered the holes with 1/2 inch thick pieces of oiled mahogany.

You could use a hole saw with a small pilot bit to cut a hole just large enough to fit a socket through below each nut, or cut a larger hole to gain access to all of them. I've seen it done both ways.
-CH
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks CH, That's what I wanted to hear. I was a little worried about cutting the boat up. But, doesn't seem like any other way to get at them. So, that's what I'll be doing tomorrow. Like I said, then I can work on them anytime, without any trouble. Kevin
 

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Does your morgan have the rubber rubrail over a bolted hull to deck joint? These have been problematic for many morgan owners I have met. Theres no easy way to get a good seal there. I ended up removing the rubber and wrapping fiberglass tape over the joint with plenty of filler and fairing. I have a friend who bought new rubber and wrapped butyl tape over the whole of the joint before reinstalling the rubrail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nope, no rubber. Teak toerail with genoa track on half of it. I cut access ports for the stanchions the other night. Got bored at home, went down to boat at 1800, just grabbed the drill with 1 inch hole saw and went for it. Used Dremel with cutting disk to make a 2 by 4 inch port. Might have to go deeper, a little, we will see. Took all the bolts off using the magic finger method, in the dark. No sweat. Those stanchions have not been off in 41 yrs!! Some of the nuts were imbedded in the fiberglass and had to use dremel to open it up around the nut to get vise grips on them. Lots of mud under the stanchions. Cleaned it all up next day, sanded, leveled. There was a 1/8 inch bead of gelcoat where the molded non skid met the deck and it went right down the middle of each stanchion base. Ground that down. Bought some 1/8 inch by 1 inch aluminum flat bar from Home depot and gonna make backing plates for them there stanchions. Some nuts didn't even have a washer. The ones that did had little dinky washers. But, no damage noted. Should be done in a day or two if the weather holds out. Work is screwing up my schedule for working on the boat!! lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Practicing posting pics. My apologies. Pic of access cut in liner to get to stanchion bolts. Aluminum backing plates. Butyl tape from Mainsail was used. No sweat. Did 3 on port side. Did one other thigamajig , also bolted to deck. Managed to do that with out cutting port. kevin
 
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