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Some of the one's I've worked on have a hole that the wire feeds through and then a Nicopress stop sleeve is crimped on the end.
Others have a hole and with an intersecting hole for a set screw.

Sometimes it can be difficult to feed the wire through the hole. A trick that may make it easier is to wrap impregnate the wire with superglue and wrap it tightly in the area you are going to cut it before cutting it.
 

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I finally made it back out to the marina and worked on the boat today. My centerboard wire appears to be 3/16" and is attached to the winch spool by passing through a hole in the spool and then using a press fitting on the other side to hold it in place.

For some reason I'm nervous about attempting this repair on my own. I have a feeling it will be more difficult than it sounds. Can someone confirm that the little metal plate on the side of where the cable passes through the hull is the inspection plate for the sheave? I'm assuming that's what it's for, but I haven't taken it off yet because it's sealed with what looks like 3M 5200.

Here's how I'm planning to tackle the repair:
1) Have marina lift the boat just high enough to allow the pennant attachment on the board to be accessible while still having the board rest on the ground to take the pressue off of the winch.
2) Unhook the pennant from centerboard.
3) Remove winch from step/mounting to give access to backside where the press fitting is for attaching the wire and spool.
4) Cut the wire using bolt cutters.
5) Remove the wires from both the bottom of the boat and from the winch spool.
6) Thread new wire up from bottom of boat over the sheave and up to the winch.
7) Attach new wire to winch spool with press fitting.
8) Remount winch.
9) Attach pennant to centerboard.
10) Raise the board back up into the trunk.
11) Launch the boat!!!

Am I missing any steps?

FYI - Today was very productive. I painted the bottom with anti-fouling paint, waxed the hullsides, deck and cockpit, oiled the exterior teak, and painted the trailer. The last thing to do before splashing her for season number 2 is replacing the centerboard wire!
Please don't think that I am trying to discourage you, but I would suggest that if there is someone qualified at the yard where you are hauling, you have them at least take a look and give you their opinion as to how far you need to go.
Your turning sheaves may only need to be lubed.

Most of the time when I'm asked to replace a cable, that's all I do. I attach the new to the old and pull it through. I don't try to thread it in after removing the old one completely unless there is a problem somewhere.
 

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Knothead - Good advice...thanks!

How do you attach the old cable to the knew? I think that's a good idea and is probably much easier than trying to thread the new cable through on it's own.
Carefully unlay the strands of the ends of both cables. The old and the new. Cut off two or three inches of about 1/2 of the strands of one of the cables and cut the opposite strands of the other cable the same way.

Then lay them up together. If you're careful, there should be no increase in diameter.

Put a thin layer of electrical tape over it and you're set. Just don't pull it real hard. Have someone at the other end if possible to push and rotate in case it try's to hang up somewhere.
If you want to be real safe, soak the connection with superglue before you tape it. You will be able to pull it pretty hard without it coming apart then.

Good luck! :)
 

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Knotty - Good information. What lube do you use on the turning sheave? We only have one. How do you get about 12" up in the trunk to lube it?
I think that if it were possible to access the sheave pin, I would use something like NeverSeize. That stuff really stays put. But any good grease should work fine.
If it's not easily accessible, I would probably use a spray Teflon grease. It comes out of the aerosol can as a liquid and quickly set up into a grease.
I really can't tell you for sure without seeing it.

Can you see it pretty well?
If you can see it, maybe you can make longer straw for the spray can. Or maybe the stuff will squirt far enough without a straw.
It seems strange that they would design it in such a way that you can't maintain it.
But I've seen stranger things.
 
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