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I would bet it was an owner or PO modification. He would have had to make a hole in the cockpit floor I guess.
If everything is lined up properly chafe is not an issue. Chafing would be an even bigger issue with the steel wire. It would literally slice right through your centreboard trunk. They actually make saw blades that are a simple strand of wire. They even use them to cut up ships but those are diamond impregnated..Patrick:
Any idea how Amsteel would hold up with chaff if it rubs on the centerboard trunk and guide block in the centerboard trunk? If it wares well it might be a good substitute. They didn't have these fibers when our boats were made.
Please don't think that I am trying to discourage you, but I would suggest that if there is someone qualified at the yard where you are hauling, you have them at least take a look and give you their opinion as to how far you need to go.I finally made it back out to the marina and worked on the boat today. My centerboard wire appears to be 3/16" and is attached to the winch spool by passing through a hole in the spool and then using a press fitting on the other side to hold it in place.
For some reason I'm nervous about attempting this repair on my own. I have a feeling it will be more difficult than it sounds. Can someone confirm that the little metal plate on the side of where the cable passes through the hull is the inspection plate for the sheave? I'm assuming that's what it's for, but I haven't taken it off yet because it's sealed with what looks like 3M 5200.
Here's how I'm planning to tackle the repair:
1) Have marina lift the boat just high enough to allow the pennant attachment on the board to be accessible while still having the board rest on the ground to take the pressue off of the winch.
2) Unhook the pennant from centerboard.
3) Remove winch from step/mounting to give access to backside where the press fitting is for attaching the wire and spool.
4) Cut the wire using bolt cutters.
5) Remove the wires from both the bottom of the boat and from the winch spool.
6) Thread new wire up from bottom of boat over the sheave and up to the winch.
7) Attach new wire to winch spool with press fitting.
8) Remount winch.
9) Attach pennant to centerboard.
10) Raise the board back up into the trunk.
11) Launch the boat!!!
Am I missing any steps?
FYI - Today was very productive. I painted the bottom with anti-fouling paint, waxed the hullsides, deck and cockpit, oiled the exterior teak, and painted the trailer. The last thing to do before splashing her for season number 2 is replacing the centerboard wire!
Carefully unlay the strands of the ends of both cables. The old and the new. Cut off two or three inches of about 1/2 of the strands of one of the cables and cut the opposite strands of the other cable the same way.Knothead - Good advice...thanks!
How do you attach the old cable to the knew? I think that's a good idea and is probably much easier than trying to thread the new cable through on it's own.
Wayne - On closer inspection, I also have two plates which are not necessarily inspection plates but rather provide access to the turning sheave.
I'm planning to do the repair on Friday, so I'll let you all (how many of us are there?) know how it goes.
I think that if it were possible to access the sheave pin, I would use something like NeverSeize. That stuff really stays put. But any good grease should work fine.Knotty - Good information. What lube do you use on the turning sheave? We only have one. How do you get about 12" up in the trunk to lube it?