Hi, I have a 1976 Atomic 4. I want to change the oil. Sounds like I need to pump it out through the dip stick hole. Can anyone tell me how wide that is? That is, what diameter tube can I stick down there?
Get the 6 liter version of that pump that can hold over a gallon of engine oil.
Dipstick hole is fine for draining oil as is oil cap, usually.
Hose size is small. I've got the $120 Jabsco oil pump that holds a few gallons and runs on 12V power from the batteries. No mess either.
Warm up the oil and pump it out.
I had this problem and I happened to have enough clearance to put a drain pan under my motor. I took the oil pan off and had it tapped and threaded at an automotive machine shop and now I have a drain plug just like a car would. This was the best long term solution for me. It also cost me less than a pump by a long shot($25 to tap and thread the pan + $3 for a bolt $10 for tube of silicone form a gasket).
Thanks for the replies. I was originally going to go with a drill bit pump like this: Lowe's - Drill Pump customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings, with a garden hose out one side into a jug, and the others side in to the engine. It takes a garden hose on that side as well. So, I was going to take a small piece of hose and attach it somehow to go into the garden hose. But, the pump above looks much better.
I use a small brass hand pump available in most chandlers. The hose, about 3/8in was just too tight for the dip stick hole so I found a 18in length of 1/4in od copper pipe that pushes into the hose. Its is a bit of waste fridge copper, but it could be any pipe or smaller hose that fits into the original pump hose.
I also use the pump to transferrer diesel from my reserve barrel to the tank when at sea, saves a lot of spills in rough weather so I don,t feel guilty about poisoning the sea.
Ok. So I ended up getting a 12V pump. But, I can not seem to get the oil to come out. I stick the 1/4 tube into the dip stock hole as far as I can. I start the pump. But, nothing comes up. Any ideas on what I could be doing wrong?
Yes, warming the engine up makes the oil more liquid (viscous) and easier to pump out. You may have other problems though if there is not enough oil to pump out from the dip stick hole - even if the oil is cold it just moves slower through the pump. I also use a 12V Jabsco oil pump and even cold oil will get sucked out.
You should carefully check your oil dipstick to see what level the oil is at. The easy way to check the oil level is to take a clean paper towel or rag and wipe the dipstick down, then re-insert it and pull it out. Lay it up against the clean paper towel or rag and you will be able to see at what level the oil registers on the stick by the stain on the towel or cloth.
If you are just low on oil I'd advise getting a few quarts of cheap oil to put in and then run the engine for a bit and then pump out what you can. Check the color of the oil; dark is not good and milky is even worse. Dark oil just means that the crank case is dirty and needs a few oil changes to clean it out. Milky colored oil indicates that water has gotten into your crankcase; the cure for this is also several (3) subsequent oil changes to get most of the watery oil out of the engine. Also running the engine until it gets up to temperature after the oil changes helps get the remaining water out.
These old engines like fresh oil (change every 50 - 100 hours of use).
Use a good oil like Rotella T 30W oil to fill the engine after you have used cheaper oil to flush out the muck and/or water.
Good oil is cheap insurance.
Scott, in my warped view of the universe all the mechanical oil removal pumps are junk. Electric ones, drill powered ones, all junk.
We bought one of the vacuum-bottle ones and I love it. Pump up a vacuum in the cannister, stick the hose in the oil dipstick tube, open the valve and
s l u r p
it very slowly but surely all comes up.
The fly in the ointment is that you now have about three feet of oily curly plastic hose that wants to whip about and scatter oil all over you cabin, so you wipe it down with paper towels as you remove it, and store it in double plastic garbage bags because there's always some oil mess waiting to break out.
Two questions about your picture. It is really that easy to pump out all the oil from a hole in the transmission cover? Really? I will do that mod and work from back there if that is all it takes. I am wondering about the zirk fittings? on your water pump couplings.
I will add a plug this season while TD is on the hard. I still have only 23 hours on my 3 year old Moyer rebuilt. Mostly back and forth from launch / haul and maneuvering in close harbors. We can sail onto and off of our mooring. It is time to replace the oil because of its age if nothing else.