Hello everyone, I need some advice on what to use for this. We had a leak from arch and have sealed the leak but the mold is still on the walls as you can see in the pictures. Any advice on what we should use on this? I looked at the StarBrite Mildew Remover as it gets great reviews, but the directions say to hose down the affected area after using it. Obviously I don't want to take a hose to the aft cabin and spray down the walls. Any advice? Thank you everyone!!
Cleaning mold on aft cabin walls
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Amazon's mold cleaner. The inflatable cleaner is also amazing stuff.
However, if you are cleaning a carpeted wall you might want to consider searching for a cleaner made for water damage...something outside the typical chandlery products.
Bleach will kill the live mold but may leave a nice layer of dead, colorless, organic material for the new mold to grow on. Bleach is not effective for very long...think pools not properly maintained and how fast they start to turn green.
There are products and experts that go well beyond most 'urban legends' about how to kill mold. Most of them will tell you that chlorine bleach is not the answer.
However, if you are cleaning a carpeted wall you might want to consider searching for a cleaner made for water damage...something outside the typical chandlery products.
Bleach will kill the live mold but may leave a nice layer of dead, colorless, organic material for the new mold to grow on. Bleach is not effective for very long...think pools not properly maintained and how fast they start to turn green.
There are products and experts that go well beyond most 'urban legends' about how to kill mold. Most of them will tell you that chlorine bleach is not the answer.
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Also consider where the mold may be growing that you can't see (and it is, if you already have visible mold). It will crawl back out immediately.
I've become a fan of the tea tree oil treatments, but I can't say I know enough to definitely say why it works. Just experience with Kanberra.
I've become a fan of the tea tree oil treatments, but I can't say I know enough to definitely say why it works. Just experience with Kanberra.
I'm currently doing that and would not recommend it if your factory overhead is in good condition. It's a big job. If you have access to AC power you might try renting a carpet cleaning with an upholstery hose attachment. Personally I would go with an eco friendly cleaner in there in case you don't pull it all out, but that's more of a personal choice. After that air dry / leave a heater on to dry out the residual moisture left behind.Or, rip out the 'carpet' and replace it with a proper ceiling that will look better and clean up easier
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But in this case the issue is primarily on the ceilings, (cover on the inside hull surface) not the overhead. Agree the overhead is tough, gravity is your enemy and working over your head tiring and difficult.
But stripping glued-on carpet off the hull, adding some battens or standoffs, and 'planking' the ceiling a la the more expensive interior finishes is not such a bad job, and the end result is quite satisfying. You can also add insulation as you go, improving comfort and reducing condensation to boot.
I have used Moldstat and Concrobium on a house I am renovating. They both work. They both instruct to rinse off after the treatment and they both warn that treatment to porous surfaces may not work. However, I have used them on porous surfaces and there have been places I could not rinse off. They still did the job as intended. I have used Concrobium on my boat's liner fabric; it worked well there, too.
I would not consider using bleach for the reasons already discussed, plus bleach is damaging to many substances, especially skin, eyes, sinuses, and lungs.
"Practical Sailor" did some moldicide testing and recommends a homemade solution. I don't remember what issue, but you can search their website to get to the article, if you are a subscriber.
I would not consider using bleach for the reasons already discussed, plus bleach is damaging to many substances, especially skin, eyes, sinuses, and lungs.
"Practical Sailor" did some moldicide testing and recommends a homemade solution. I don't remember what issue, but you can search their website to get to the article, if you are a subscriber.
I am a recent convert to white vinegar, including on porous surfaces. Spray it on, let sit for an hour or two then wipe of with a dry cloth or paper towel and repeat. It works just as well as most bleach based cleaners and a face mask should still be used but less toxic.
Add salt to a damp cloth for an abrasive.
Add salt to a damp cloth for an abrasive.
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Better than Concrobium (Formula B) and only pennies. I have tested them side by side, many times.
The key is after cleaning to LEAVE a rinse of this on the surface. The mold won't come back.
One Penny Mildew Spray - Inside Practical Sailor Blog Article
(this is what Jwing was referring to)
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Bleach is your friend on a boat.
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Many cleaners will remove the mold, bleach vinegar and some expensive cleaners. It's stopping it from coming back which is the hard part. I found citrus based cleaners to work well. Probably the most important item, and overlooked in this discussion is adequate ventilation. For an aft cabin I'd suggest a small fan to keep the air circulating. A simple computer fan may do the trick.
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Have a go at it with a magic eraser
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Molds and mildews are inactivated and 'liquified' by the use of 'caustics'.
I would suggest to go to a local "Tool Rental Place" and rent a portable *carpet soil extraction machine* .... but one that has an auxiliary 'furniture soil extraction' adjunct - a smaller hand held vacuum tip with built in spray nozzle.
I would first spray on a strongly caustic detergent to loosen and DISSOLVE the mildew/fungals .... spray on and let soak, then lightly scrub, and spray again.
Caution - caustics can be dangerous/destructive to skin, eyes, and lungs; therefore, you MUST wear gloves, goggles that SEAL your face/eyes, AND must wear a chemical respirator. That respirator should be the high quality consumer types used for painting, etc. and that have an integral 'dust' removal (pads) section. I would recommend to DOUBLE the normal amount of 'dust pads' normally used to help capture any caustic aerosols caused by the spraying/vacuum-extraction. 3M respirators sold in box stores are probably the best, but buy extra 'dust pads' (you can 'tape' them to the outside of the respirator 'inlet').
Spray on the caustic detergent, let soak, lightly scrub, respray/scrub let soak. It takes time for the mildew to 'dissolve'. Suggest you use a sodium silicate based detergent such as "Roll-On" or "Tuff-eNUFF" which are available in many boat supply outlets such as West Marine, etc.
THEN use the 'furniture attachment' and with water ONLY in the 'detergent tank', extract the fabric liner. Once the caustic (and mildew) is fully extracted, then add the 'usual' carpet/fabric cleaners/surfactants (usually supplied with the rental) and do one or two more extractions. These are vacuum extractions so the fabric will remain wetted for some time .... if you have a humidifier, bring it to the boat and use it to help dry out the fabric.
FWIW - the caustics will also dissolve 'boat dust' ... the zillions of dead exfoliated human skin cells that stick to 'everything' and which are the probable PRIME source of 'boat odor' when they 'rot' and turn into odor causing 'putrenes' that stink to high heavens. Caustics dissolve them.
Caution2 - Most fabrics used in boats do not contain 'cellulose' - cotton, rayon, etc. Caustics will breakdown, weaken, and partly dissolve the 'cellulose' of 'natural' fibers. I would suggest that you take a small 'snip' of the headliner from a hidden place, soak it in the caustic that you choose, and soak for a day or so; rinse, let fully dry and then examine if or not the fabric has been severely weakened .... if so ... replace the fabric with new. That 'test' would be the comparison of 'pulling apart' with your hands a sample not soaked versus a sample that has been soaked in the caustic. I would expect that even a fabric made of 5-10% cotton blend would be affected by a strong caustic detergent - severely weakened.
Summary Rx:
•Clean/soak with CAUSTICs.
•Wear eye/lung/skin protection when cleaning with caustics -- keep a large bucket of fresh water available to IMMEDIATELY wash/rinse any accidentally spilled caustic on skin/eyes etc. The danger sign is a strong 'slimy-to-the-touch' feeling that 'hurts'; if so then, IMMEDIATE and long term wash off and rinse with plain watesr.
•Use a carpet 'soil extractor' with 'furniture' attachment
•*TEST the fabric for 'weakening' by the caustic before aggressive cleaning.
To prevent the return of mildew, treat (ALL inside the boat) *unpainted* (including not varnished nor oiled surfaces 'caustics are used as paint/varnish strippers) and non-fabric surfaces with a commercial "mildew retardant" such 3M "Mildew Block" etc. If not available, then simply spritz on 'any' caustic, wipe and let dry - a modern equivalent of 'white-whashing'. 'Whitewashing' inactivates mildew spores.
Clean any and all mildew from the boat - from underside and hidden surfaces, bilge, etc. then apply anti-mildew compound (or 'whitewashing' caustic) to everything but that which is painted, varnished or is a fabric.
Avoid the use of vinegar, lemon juice and other 'acidics', as mildew THRIVES in low pH (acidic) conditions. If you use such, what isnt 'stunned/killed' will be 'fed' by the 'acids'.
Hope this helps.
I would suggest to go to a local "Tool Rental Place" and rent a portable *carpet soil extraction machine* .... but one that has an auxiliary 'furniture soil extraction' adjunct - a smaller hand held vacuum tip with built in spray nozzle.
I would first spray on a strongly caustic detergent to loosen and DISSOLVE the mildew/fungals .... spray on and let soak, then lightly scrub, and spray again.
Caution - caustics can be dangerous/destructive to skin, eyes, and lungs; therefore, you MUST wear gloves, goggles that SEAL your face/eyes, AND must wear a chemical respirator. That respirator should be the high quality consumer types used for painting, etc. and that have an integral 'dust' removal (pads) section. I would recommend to DOUBLE the normal amount of 'dust pads' normally used to help capture any caustic aerosols caused by the spraying/vacuum-extraction. 3M respirators sold in box stores are probably the best, but buy extra 'dust pads' (you can 'tape' them to the outside of the respirator 'inlet').
Spray on the caustic detergent, let soak, lightly scrub, respray/scrub let soak. It takes time for the mildew to 'dissolve'. Suggest you use a sodium silicate based detergent such as "Roll-On" or "Tuff-eNUFF" which are available in many boat supply outlets such as West Marine, etc.
THEN use the 'furniture attachment' and with water ONLY in the 'detergent tank', extract the fabric liner. Once the caustic (and mildew) is fully extracted, then add the 'usual' carpet/fabric cleaners/surfactants (usually supplied with the rental) and do one or two more extractions. These are vacuum extractions so the fabric will remain wetted for some time .... if you have a humidifier, bring it to the boat and use it to help dry out the fabric.
FWIW - the caustics will also dissolve 'boat dust' ... the zillions of dead exfoliated human skin cells that stick to 'everything' and which are the probable PRIME source of 'boat odor' when they 'rot' and turn into odor causing 'putrenes' that stink to high heavens. Caustics dissolve them.
Caution2 - Most fabrics used in boats do not contain 'cellulose' - cotton, rayon, etc. Caustics will breakdown, weaken, and partly dissolve the 'cellulose' of 'natural' fibers. I would suggest that you take a small 'snip' of the headliner from a hidden place, soak it in the caustic that you choose, and soak for a day or so; rinse, let fully dry and then examine if or not the fabric has been severely weakened .... if so ... replace the fabric with new. That 'test' would be the comparison of 'pulling apart' with your hands a sample not soaked versus a sample that has been soaked in the caustic. I would expect that even a fabric made of 5-10% cotton blend would be affected by a strong caustic detergent - severely weakened.
Summary Rx:
•Clean/soak with CAUSTICs.
•Wear eye/lung/skin protection when cleaning with caustics -- keep a large bucket of fresh water available to IMMEDIATELY wash/rinse any accidentally spilled caustic on skin/eyes etc. The danger sign is a strong 'slimy-to-the-touch' feeling that 'hurts'; if so then, IMMEDIATE and long term wash off and rinse with plain watesr.
•Use a carpet 'soil extractor' with 'furniture' attachment
•*TEST the fabric for 'weakening' by the caustic before aggressive cleaning.
To prevent the return of mildew, treat (ALL inside the boat) *unpainted* (including not varnished nor oiled surfaces 'caustics are used as paint/varnish strippers) and non-fabric surfaces with a commercial "mildew retardant" such 3M "Mildew Block" etc. If not available, then simply spritz on 'any' caustic, wipe and let dry - a modern equivalent of 'white-whashing'. 'Whitewashing' inactivates mildew spores.
Clean any and all mildew from the boat - from underside and hidden surfaces, bilge, etc. then apply anti-mildew compound (or 'whitewashing' caustic) to everything but that which is painted, varnished or is a fabric.
Avoid the use of vinegar, lemon juice and other 'acidics', as mildew THRIVES in low pH (acidic) conditions. If you use such, what isnt 'stunned/killed' will be 'fed' by the 'acids'.
Hope this helps.
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LA Totally Awesome Cleaner, available at Dollar Tree and Dollar General stores. Non toxic, spray it on, let it sit 30 seconds, wipe it clean. Cost $1 for a 16-ounce spray bottle and one bottle was more than enough to clean my entire hull. It also cleans off rust and spider poop, both of which are difficult stains to remove.
Good luck,
Gary
Good luck,
Gary
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Please consider the following:
* As RichH pointed out, about the only thing that will keep mildew gone is an alkaline residue. Vinegar will make it come back sooner (yes, I have tested this side-by-side).
* Vinegar and bleach are inconsistent with soft liners and fabrics. If I soaked my liner or fabric with either I'd have to sell the boat.
* Slightly alkaline cleaners such as Concrobium and Formula B (both rather similar, though Formula B is longer lasting) can be sprayed on and left in place to prevent recurrence.
Simple well proven chemistry used by the restoration industry. Or you can guess.
Yes, I tested tea tree oil as well. I offers some effectiveness, but for actual microbial impact it has to be obnoxiously strong. To get it strong enough, the boat must be sealed against ventilation, which brings damp and is thus cross purposes IMHO. Some folks like the smell, and in a well ventilated boat, the most it can provide is a tiny amount of incremental grow inhibition, impossible to measure accurately.
* As RichH pointed out, about the only thing that will keep mildew gone is an alkaline residue. Vinegar will make it come back sooner (yes, I have tested this side-by-side).
* Vinegar and bleach are inconsistent with soft liners and fabrics. If I soaked my liner or fabric with either I'd have to sell the boat.
* Slightly alkaline cleaners such as Concrobium and Formula B (both rather similar, though Formula B is longer lasting) can be sprayed on and left in place to prevent recurrence.
Simple well proven chemistry used by the restoration industry. Or you can guess.
Yes, I tested tea tree oil as well. I offers some effectiveness, but for actual microbial impact it has to be obnoxiously strong. To get it strong enough, the boat must be sealed against ventilation, which brings damp and is thus cross purposes IMHO. Some folks like the smell, and in a well ventilated boat, the most it can provide is a tiny amount of incremental grow inhibition, impossible to measure accurately.
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