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Discussion Starter #21
Plan has altered after some sanding. Focusing on the cockpit for now.

The old paint is coming off nicely with 80 grit. New plan is to use Interlux Perfection for the glossy portions. The current "gentle" non-skid surfaces such as those on the coamings and cockpit seats will be sanded down and will be resurfaces with Kiwi Grip. I think these were a patterned paint and not fiberglassed patterns.

I wanted to try to save the more aggressive diamond non-skid pattern on the cockpit floor but after some sanding and wire brushing I think resurfacing is in order. Going to use Kiwi Grip to resurface the diamond non-skid.

Also going remove more hardware than I originally thought. Just too hard to sand and might as well rebed. Just ordered two rolls of buytl tape from MaineSail :)

Has anyone used an oscillating tool to sand in the tight area like corners and where surface planes meet? I really hate the idea of hand sanding...

Josh
 

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I can tell you that the use of power sanders can lead to more work in the long run due to re-fairing requirements if you've been a bit too aggressive, esp when removing old paint.

Haven't used our oscillating tool as a sander yet, probably OK but again would worry about accidentally putting 'divots' in the surface that aren't there now...
 

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I was gonna leave this one alone, but this is one area where I have a fair degree of first hand knowledge.

First and foremost, Kiwi Grip is the only way to go with the non-skid. This stuff if absolutely fantastic, probably the best, most aggressive non-skid I've come across is 50 years. There's a good reason all the high end race boats are using it - you WILL NOT slip. You damned well don't want to drag your knuckles, knees or elbows over this stuff, but you will never have to worry about slipping, even on a deck soaked with fish slime.

Preparation is very simple. No sanding involved. Just scrub the Hell out of the deck with Comet Cleanser, run thoroughly and allow it to dry for a day. Next day, wipe the deck with denatured alcohol and don't be stingy with it. It will dry almost instantly.

The most difficult part is the masking. This will take teamwork and coordination. After the deck is masked off, the paint is applied by scooping it out with a ladle, then spreading it with a notched trowel with 1/8-inch notches, similar to a trowel that would be used to spread tile cement or grout. Spread the paint evenly, then it gets rolled with a texturized roller, called a Loopy Goopy Roller. One comes with each gallon of paint. This process must be done very quickly as the paint will almost dry while it's being applied. As soon as the texture is applied, someone must immediately remove the masking tape or the edges of the paint will be lifted in the process. DO NOT DELAY!

I used 2-part epoxy paint for all the slick surfaces. I sanded everything with a 160-gritt sand paper, then vacuumed all surfaces, wiped them with a tack rag, then wiped them again with denatured alcohol. This is very important. The paint was applied with a slick roller and tipped with a boar's hair brush. (Figure on that expensive brush as a throwaway.) I allowed the first coat to dry one day, then want back, sanded the finish lightly with 400-grit, repeated the cleaning process, then repeated the painting process. It worked out fine, other than a couple runs that I managed to miss. I used Pettit Snow White and white non-skid. Everyone thinks the boat looks brand new now.

The only folks that I know that have had problems with the Kiwi Grip were those that did not follow the instructions, especially drying everything out with denatured alcohol. That is a very important step.



Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Making progress on the sanding. When I remove deck hardware, any suggestions for temporarily plugging fastener holes? The holes are exposed to Chesapeake winter weather and don't want more leaks down below or water in the holes. Almost certainly weeks of time between removal and putting the deck hardware back

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update:
Most of the cockpit is sanded to 80 grit smooth. Moving on to 120 grit. Will remove deck hardware and hot those spots with 80/120. Have two rolls of butyl ready for rebedding and plan to countersink ala Mainesail's approach.

Going with two part Interlux for shiny and flat deck portions, KiwiGrip for cockpit floor, and KiwiGrip for cockpit nonskid but rolled with a less aggressive roller.

I don't suspect any wetness in fastener holes but thinking about potting them with epoxy before rebed.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #27
One more question:

Is there a recommended ordering between gloss, flat, and non-skid? I recall reading about an ordering somewhere

Josh
 

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One more question:

Is there a recommended ordering between gloss, flat, and non-skid? I recall reading about an ordering somewhere

Josh
I'd recommend ordering Gloss if you want shiny, don't see any time you'd want to order flat, and you should order Non-skid for anywhere that you expect to have to need 'traction' on a wet deck...;););)

Sorry, but seriously, not quite sure what you're asking....
 

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If you are asking about the order of application, apply the gloss first, followed by the non-skid. By doing things in this order, you have very little masking to do when applying the gloss. The masking comes with the application of the non-skid.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 

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If you are asking about the order of application, apply the gloss first, followed by the non-skid. By doing things in this order, you have very little masking to do when applying the gloss. The masking comes with the application of the non-skid.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
Good catch, Gary... must be what he meant. I didn't get that.... and you're right. I did mask both times, (defined the nonskid, sprayed around it, then remasked and sprayed the NS using Awlgrip and Griptex,) but ended up with visible double mask lines in places.. minor, but annoying to me.
 

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I'm going to have to argue that point. If you get any of the gloss paint on the to be painted non skid area, you are going to have to resand that gloss paint overlap or the non skid might not stick. And be extremely careful of using masking tape on fresh paint of any kind. You have a good chance of the fresh paint lifting when removing the tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Apologies for the confusion. I was referring to the order of application. Gloss first seems intuitive. May have to cleanup a few spots before applying non-skid but dealing with gloss on top of fresh non-skid sound not fun
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Getting close to applying the first coat of Interlux PrimeKote. Planning to overlap into nonskid areas. Any issues with applying KiwiGrip over PrimeKote (epoxy based)?

Josh
 
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