After looking at the pictures just now, I realized that it all looks much better after everything was snugged up tight. I'll have to get some daylight pictures of the completed project. Somehow, these pictures don't quite capture it.
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Completed - Inexpensive PVC Frame and Cover
4
The cover for our Beneteau 50 is finished. The yearly cost will be $200, instead of the $1500 the marina charges for shrinkwrap. Total cost this year was even less than $1500. Much less. Here is a picture of the frame.
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Here's a shot with the cover, before it was really done. (It was dark by the time she was completly covered and everything was tucked in tight.)
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The whole thing disassembles into some managable pieces, for easy reassembly next winter. For instance, the 1.5" PVC ridge has a very taught 1/2 inch nylon line running in the center like a "spinal cord". This means by loosening (but not removing) the line, all the pieces at the top come apart, but stay in the same order for next winter. Likewise, the 13 PVC "wings" fold in (or fold up and over) so they can be easily moved. There are a few experimental aspects of the design, like arched ribs (tensioned like a bow-and-arrow's bow), side supports and mid-arch supports. I want to see how they fare over the winter.
The fore section was really the simplest part of the design, since she's less beamy there.
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By keeping all the ribs at 10 feet, it worked well with the 20 foot wide tarp. this picture was before I gathered-in all the excess material at the bow. (The same thing that heat guns do to shrink wrap, can be done to tarps with some light line from the inside.) Note also this picture was before finishing-up where the tarps meet.
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Each year, we'll need a new 20x30 cheap tarp for the bow, and a tarp for the stern as well. For the stern, I used a 50x30, so what you see is one piece, without any cuts. The tarp actually folds at the topping lift and covers the stern quite well.
I may using a 30x40 in the future for the stern if I change the design a bit or if I take the mast out. (The design does not need the mast and boom in place, the frame is self-supporting.)
If anyone wants more details, please let me know. There are a bunch of things done to make it easily removed, stored and reassembled.
Regards
Here's a shot with the cover, before it was really done. (It was dark by the time she was completly covered and everything was tucked in tight.)
The whole thing disassembles into some managable pieces, for easy reassembly next winter. For instance, the 1.5" PVC ridge has a very taught 1/2 inch nylon line running in the center like a "spinal cord". This means by loosening (but not removing) the line, all the pieces at the top come apart, but stay in the same order for next winter. Likewise, the 13 PVC "wings" fold in (or fold up and over) so they can be easily moved. There are a few experimental aspects of the design, like arched ribs (tensioned like a bow-and-arrow's bow), side supports and mid-arch supports. I want to see how they fare over the winter.
The fore section was really the simplest part of the design, since she's less beamy there.
By keeping all the ribs at 10 feet, it worked well with the 20 foot wide tarp. this picture was before I gathered-in all the excess material at the bow. (The same thing that heat guns do to shrink wrap, can be done to tarps with some light line from the inside.) Note also this picture was before finishing-up where the tarps meet.
Each year, we'll need a new 20x30 cheap tarp for the bow, and a tarp for the stern as well. For the stern, I used a 50x30, so what you see is one piece, without any cuts. The tarp actually folds at the topping lift and covers the stern quite well.
I may using a 30x40 in the future for the stern if I change the design a bit or if I take the mast out. (The design does not need the mast and boom in place, the frame is self-supporting.)
If anyone wants more details, please let me know. There are a bunch of things done to make it easily removed, stored and reassembled.
Regards
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Here's another picture taken from the inside after the tarp was tightened-up and gathered. Note the cardboard box over the BBQ (to protect the tarp from hard edges).
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Below the folded, stainless arch is a separate 8'x10' tarp to protect the storage compartment in the transom from water-turned-ice. So everything in the picture is one large tarp, except for right behind the dinghy engine mount.
Below the folded, stainless arch is a separate 8'x10' tarp to protect the storage compartment in the transom from water-turned-ice. So everything in the picture is one large tarp, except for right behind the dinghy engine mount.
Contradulations on getting that done. I was wondering how you were comming along on that.
Now you can start on the real list.
How are the ribs connected to the top piece?
Now you can start on the real list.
How are the ribs connected to the top piece?
3
I did something similar for our 30' Sabre. So far, so great! Holding up very well, and we get some crazy winds here in coastal Maine frequently.
Frame (PVC & 2x4s for posts) cost all of about $60-$70, plus a 20'x40' heavy duty green tarp (about $70, which is holding up well, and I hope to use it next year).
I figure, it'll take about an hour in the spring and fall to build and tear down each year...not bad. It's tall enough inside to walk around inside, plus holds some heat when I string up work lights.
Nice thing is, snow slides right off with just a tap from a roof rake. Boat is in our driveway, so it's easy and convenient to check on her, and keep snow off.
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Frame (PVC & 2x4s for posts) cost all of about $60-$70, plus a 20'x40' heavy duty green tarp (about $70, which is holding up well, and I hope to use it next year).
I figure, it'll take about an hour in the spring and fall to build and tear down each year...not bad. It's tall enough inside to walk around inside, plus holds some heat when I string up work lights.
Nice thing is, snow slides right off with just a tap from a roof rake. Boat is in our driveway, so it's easy and convenient to check on her, and keep snow off.
Yes. That list is next. I'll call you, unless you want me to buy you dinner in NY. That would be more fun. Are you coming to MrWuffles' Long Island gathering in Huntington the week of January 26th?Contradulations on getting that done. I was wondering how you were comming along on that.
Now you can start on the real list.
All are taped with electrical tape stretched tight. That's many layers of tape, wrapped and wrapped. Now that the design is done, I'll go back and reinforce it with more wraps and tape the verticals too. The ones aft of the mast are additionally held in place with tension from the "bow and arrow"-type bow string.
Bene,![]()
I'd second BillyR's concerns. My tarpology has evolved into adding more vertical supports (for me it's cotton clothes line at ~2' on center that I tighten once or twice a winter) at a steeper pitch.
That horizontal line you have near the bottom right in this photo creates a section of tarp that has great "trapping" ability.
I try to get my tarp tight enough to bounce a quarter off of and no place for snow/water/ice to collect.
my 2 cents.
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