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Do you think this boat is up to the tasks i set for it

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone im kinda new here well not really i mean ive been lurking the forums for years but i never really had a need to ask questions till now. But recentrly instead of crewing on friends boats i went and purchased my own since i was eager to get more on water time myself. SO in august i purchased a contest 30 type a the one that klooks like the 29 on deck. Now i am planning for a hop to bermuda and back within the next 5 years when i have finished work on the boat. Now i have a few questions a) the absence of a compression post anywhere in the boat strikes me as odd is it like that for all of thses boats i mean it seems relatively stiff and solid just curious, two i was wondering if to sprevent the likliehood of being swamped in the case of a large breaking wave i should mould some port covers that could be fastened on the exterior of the window. Next the boat i bought did not have a built in stove, although all the others ive seen do it just seems to have had 2 iceboxes instead of one and a stove. next the bow has side to side stringers which im sure provide support to the foredeck and while the boat seems very heavily built the boa weems rather weakly built in comparison any ideas for strengthening it. also the traveler has clam cleats and id lkike to change to cam but i need no input on that really however i would appreciate any plans of the hull, deck or others specs because im also planning on fitting some sort of a windvane most likely i will build it myself due to general poorness aha. also it seems to not have a bilge pump so a diaphragm pump is priority numero uno. however in terms f installing one would i be correct to assume putting a loop to the top of the deck floor with an ano siphon vlve and a thru hull halfway between the waterline and the the deck and maybe a seacock as well. a bilge pump is particularily important because well everything drains to the bilge in this boat the sink the chain locker all of it however the hull does seem very solid and the inside is completely covered in epoxy which definitely the chainplates were inspected by a rigger and he said they and the standing rigging are almost new and have plenty of life in them so thats good. so pretty much any info on the boat would be appreciated in aditttion the rudder seems rather trembly im assuming thats due to turbulence caused by the keel and skeg in any case it almost feels as if it has prop wash constantly which it doesnt because the inboard we replaced with an outboard although it still has a working transmmission. So my list of things to get so far is blge pump, windvane, storm jib, storm hatch covers, solar panels to charge batteries, a series drogue, a collision mat and some tarp just in case some sailtape and some jacklines (already have the harness crewing on other ppls boats) any other ideas, the boat is very barebones with no chartplotter or speed sensor or wind or anything, i have a compass some charts and a handheld gps and a vhf personally even when im on friends boats with a chartplotter i double check by hand anyways
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the older version of the 30 which is th one i have has a doghouse so the windows are pretty large i wean there not giant panels like some of the new jenneaus and such but there not tiny either however they are quite thick but id like to be as prepared as i can possibly be id like to be able to take a 120 foot breaking wave broadside and survive, rigless of course but survive. the head drains directly to the water via a thru hull with a masive seacock, no macerator or holding tank at all the not having drain thru hulls does help have less thru hulls therefore less things to cause sinking. and again with the compresion post a) good handhold b) u can never be too prepared for the worst in terms of the rudder its out atm for winter storage so ill test it before launch this spring and ive heard edson makes the best bilge pumps so ill definitely be hunting for one and yes i sdo think an automatic one would be a good idea in addition, the inboard has already been removed, im thinking of screwing a plywood floor to the engine mounts and using it as storage for freshwater jugs, oh and it already has a honda 4 stroke 8 hp outboard on it which sems to be reliable and it charges my batteries as for cooking i have a two burner butane stove but i want to make it gimballed somehow, as for the storm jib it has hanks no roller furling and a downhaul for safety ans it has a bowsprit of two and a half feet so i could always have the storms jib on the outer forestay, thanks for the tip on the collision map that is true takes space that food could have been in, in terms of chartplotters i may sucumb to them but ive always had a thing agaisnt them mostly cause of one time when the blidin light of it made me unable to see the buoys in a narrow chanell so i kinda marked them as a hazard rather than a help but it is true that charts are expensive but theres always photocopying and i o have a laptop with charting software which i can use as a cabin chartplotter if it is necessarry. in terms of wther bermuda would be the only offshore trip hat depends on how it goes if it seems like it goes well i may take the azored route over to europe and explore the med and the north sea, if not its just a hop back to canada. in your opinion though will i need a series drogue and a storm jib my main is also boom furling so that acts as my trysail kinda i will experiment with sheet to tiller, although im on the lookout for a vane, i have heaard since the keel is a long keel not full or 3/4 but a long shoal fin with a skeg that steering should be pretty balanced and if i let go of the tiller it does take a goodd while to veer off course as for the arch it definitely is strong because in my maiden voyage on her just seeing how she handled we had some decent swells around the bruce peninsula and there was no flexing at all its not the deck thats thin its just the bow near the deck to hull connection i dont like but i suppose that part is far from the water anyways
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oh i thought i saw an edson manual bilge pump on the sailnet store for like 100 bucks or is that different. but yes 700 dollars is rather significant as in i could use that money for a storm sail or a series drogue or as part of my windvane budget or for an ssb radio but holy 30 gpm i could rip my keel off and still keep afloat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yes i think i will go with that one that you posted earlier 20 gpm is a very good output rate i mean if the water is coming any faster than that ur first priority should probably be stopping the leak not pumping away although i am not planning on being alone i will have my fiance with me however she has no interest in actually sailing she just wants to come along for the sights and the experience not so keen on triming the sails or manning the helm. how would u instal the pump so that it can be used from the cockpit id asume u mount it under deck with a hole drilled thru where the handle goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i was unaware of the rounding up, seing as i only sailed her twice so far having bought her at the end of the season for a relatively low price, i was under the impression that the bloaty feeling would lead to relatively higher comfort offshore and durability, my forward door does close but that might just be coincidental but i thought mine had a skeg so im not sure wether that means mine will round up to im more used to production boats so i figured the sluggish motion would have increased safety offshore so maybe i should reconcider i kind of bought it under the impression that it was a decent offshore boat seing as it has simmilar lines to an alberg 30 and a good capsize ratio, but having heard this i think i may just refinish her and sell and mybe buy a different boat for the bermuda trip instead not that theres much chance of hitting 120 foot waves between here and bermuda at the right time of the year but my number one priority is safety
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
oh so maybe i willl go with the henderson one instead of whale because that doesnt sound very promising, but atm i am rather perturbed by the previous comment it does not instill faith in my boat in me because i was under the impression they were very stoutly built fir the north sea as every forum i had consulted before buying had said and how she felt told me but having not done any offshore work and only being familiar with beeneteaus and jenneaus and the like i just noticed she looked much more hevily built than them but now i am having second thoughts and im not sure i bought the right boat hmm
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
im not disagreeing with u its just rather upsetting to me having done all this reasearch hearing all thses things about how its stoutly built and suited to offshore work and then seeing the boat and noticing the sluggishness and figuring that because it feels almost like a suv of boats it must be heavier bult and therefore less likely to smash to peices, but i will agree that there were some amazing benefits to the way race boats today are built for example the lift of a deep bulb keel and the negative drag it creates is definitely a safety feature because it actually reduces capsize rishk and everyone whos passed high school physics understands that the farther away a weight is on a fulcrum the more leverage it has although it also makes it terribly unprotected in groundings, but so i guess im just not quite sure which end to beleive on the contest side wether the enormous percentage of the total displacement that is ballast would actually help in terms of preventing a knockdown and in the case of a 120 foot breaker im fairly certain any yacht would be knocked down im more intersted in would the superstructure survive i mean obviously the rig would be toast u say that all the 60s 70s boats were like this does that mean if i decide to sell and buy a new boat i shouldnt look at alberg 30s or contessa 26 or 32s either and yes im aware the alberg and contest have different underwater lines i was talking about the way they look in water. and does the skeg provide any stability advantage over a spade rudder or is that what causes this rounding up which might be rather frightening when trying to heave to which i havent tried on this boat yet not that it works terribly well on any fin keel boat anyways
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
nope there were to very different versipn of the 30 that version is the modern layout mine is the contest 30 mark 1 sailboat data doesnt actyually have it but in essence it is a contest 29 that had an alumium mast and an l shaped sett instead of an i sahape and 1 foot more length and 1 foot or so more beam as well as some other nonimportant details like a hatch at the stern, a slihtly different forward hatchumm the door to the forward cabin is also ofset to one side of the mast as opposed to directly beneath it that may be why i havent noticed the hjamming of it when sailing but it is more like the 29 than the 30 that u can see on sailboatdata in fact the 30 i have was a vey limited production run it was almost just a different version of the 29
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Contest Yacht Owners Club if you go to the model overview and scroll down to contest 30 mk1 it was designed by gerard luyten as opposed to vsan essen or zaal as the other thirties all in all there were about 4 or 5 fdifferent contest 30s built, all by different designers but yes this is essentially the 29 but modified and having an offset bulkhead
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
oh i mean that i dont dispute of course a mathematical formula can only have a limited number of variables and obviously it cant be to complex im just asking do u think from the looks of it if we assume simmilar figures as the 29as they have almost identical underbodies do u think hes right about it being shoddily constructed because i dont want to invest in something i wont be bale to use how i want it i was hoping to step up from coastal cruising with this boat, in any case if theres any ideas of mods u can thin of or anything to salvage my dream that would be good too but umm according to the previous owner the displacement is 9000 dry and 4000 ballast which puts it at a simmilar weight as the 29 but with higher ballast to displacement ratio 8500 to 3300 vs 9000 to 4000
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
thats what i figured, and i figured having the doghouse assuming i make storms shutters means if it does cpsize having a largwe volume of air pushed 2 feet underwater will actually act as negative ballst as air does not lie being pushed underwater same principle the coast guards 60 footers use i beleive. in terms of the lay up before buying it i was under the impression hand lay up is more sturdy than chop and it does have very thick fiberglass except for the bow right at the deck to hull mount but its only the bow everywhere else at the keel it is several inches thick and at the waterline it is around an inch and a quarter thic but the idea of these framing elements does not exactly create faith in its seahandling ability i can say when u take it out in the water which i have only had occassion to do twice it feels like a 9000 pound block of lead and it takes forever to accellarate, but if i can improve the structural elements that would be great, and yes i agree some of us cant afford a boat built in the last twenty years although farr does build beautifull boats if i had the money my dream boat is actually a c and c 121 but i was always under the impression that boats from the sixties and seventies were the most seaworthy and the eighties were concidered the dark ages no
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
i do agree with him im one to air on the side of caution id rather listen to somone pointing out the issues with it rather than listen to everyone else ive seen on forums talking about how seaworthy they are then get caught out in something and have the hull smashed in, i was just thinking it might be more economically feasible to modify the structure since it does have a good amount of glass im sure reframing the hull would be able to fix the structural defects, as for the keel that may not be abvoided i just dont think ill have the money to own two boats and fix the hullmaster up with whatever it needs and since its difficult to sell a 40 year old obscure boat i think im stuck with the contest also in terms of the 29 and the 30 bothe the 29 and the 30 mark 1 were designed by luyten whereas the newer 30s were designed by zaal and essen but mine is the early 30 so in that way we do have some indformation. in terms of the bilge pumps i think i might as well get the henderson so i have less things i have to hunt for used. As for the fiance i will give it some thought i figured id essentially be singlehanding but shed be there for altternating watches and in case of emergency i figured she could do things that require no real previous experience like pumping the bilge while i manned the helm. and i do understand offshore is a totally different bird, ive been thru a few squalls on the great lakes but im sure thats nothing compared to a gale in the atlantic, but i figured going to bermuda id get a sense of the difference while being close enough to land to have a sense of security and the ability to be rescued if the boat ends up on the ocean floor in terms of albergs i always thought the albergs were the best designs especially the 30 didnt the guy who invented the cape horn gear circumnavigate in jean du sud which was an alberg 30 although the contessa 32s seem to be rather espensive here as in 50 000 and over. anyways if i absolutely have to get a different boat i guess i could try to sell the contest and if not ill have to put off the trip till i can afford both boats and storage and whatnot for both which i really dont want because id like to just have one to worry about
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i think i get what u mean since the contest is not a full keeled boat it does not have the advantage a full keel has yet ist still has the bow and the beam of a full keeled boat and also the under body is almost like somone just snapped of the forefoot and cut off the back quarter of the keel which obviously causes turbulence which most likely causes the aeration ive talked about but im more concerned less about the rounding up which cvan usually be corrected by adjustments to the helm as the load transfers from the keel but in all fairness i think you should advise whoever is writing that offshore boat list on this forum to remove the contests of this era from the thread because it is misleading, i also was mislead by the fact that it feels much more solid compared to say a catalina or a benetau but i suppose i was fooled having never really had experience on older boats i just assumed because it seemed rugged it was and having heard of many people who did offshore work with them as well as ppl praising the design on this forum but i guess that those ppl must have not encountered heavy weather as you can go anywhere in anything with the right conditions although it doesnt give you the peace of mind im looking for in being able to heave to and know u wont be blown to peices by a large breaker
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
tbh im not looking for a new boat because the reality is im not going to be able to sell my boat and if i did i cant think of any suitable boats because my budget is more like 15 or 20 (assuming its fully equipmented out) not 40 50 grand so instead of telling me how the boat is hasrd to control when it heels tell me how to steengthen the frame because it did seem pretty sturdy when i took it out in a small craft warning breeze and sluggish even so im guessing these flaws only present themselves in say a 35 knot wind, but since your the expert im sure you could give me some pointers ars to what to strengthen instead of just pushing me towards boats i cant aford. if i were to buy a boat in the 50 000 dollar range id go for a steel hull anyways and if the deep keel boats are so superior for durability why do u always hear of them losing there keels in the southern ocean (not that id ever plan to go there in anything short of a tallship) but back to reality and bermuda, i was wondering though if i were stuck in a full gale and i had no drogue or storm jib what would i do lay a hull with bare poles, run before the weather streaming warps. To be honest i wouldnt circumnavigate in a 12 foot boat but i have heard of contest 29s and 30s that have sailed from the netherlands to the us virgin islands so i assumed they were up to it but i suppose it may not be ideal due to the comments made but any boat can be made safer for example a catalina 27 circumnavigated and im fairly certain my boat is much stronger just from a raw fiberglass point of view even if the internal bracing was not as good but im sure if i add some stringers and a few compression posts i should be able to correct that. in terms of reefing i do feel rather happy that the boat has both slab reefing and a roller boom bith of which i have plenty of experience with, in terms of sailing in 25 to 35 knots while we dont have 35 knots often i have bbeen in 25 once or twice in lake huron crewing on my friends c and c 27 im going to post a lit of my ideas for a list of what i need to do for the boat it would help if you could tell me what my priorities are
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
the marina operator actually told me the boat was as strong as a bull on steroids hence why i was so confused when i heard jeffs opinion but then my marina operator doesnt design boats he just repairs and works on them and also happened to cross the atlantic by boat when he moved to canada in his cutter i did not get a survey because i figured i paid 13 grand for the boat i might as well put the 1 grand into equipment rather than a survey and knowing there was no coring i figurede there was nothing that could go wrong or rot and obviously the marina operator would know if it had osmosis because he put on new antifouling at the beggining of the season i figured id use the rollerboom if i needed a very tiny peice of sail as in smaller than the smallest jinb i had so i could heave to and in that regard how mmuch would it cost me in raw materials to build a series drogue and my main is 1 year old so its pretty decent shape although it is kmuch smaller than the original sail was so that contributs to the sluggishness its about half the size of my 150 genoa and reef number 2 makes the sail about half the size of that of the 420s i sailed as a 7 year old so not sure if i should put any reef point higher than that or one in the middle because the jump between reef one and 2 is enormous in terms of blocks im replacing the traveler blocks and the cleat but the rest are all new as are the winches so heres my list btw
storm jib
jacklines
bilge pump
replace all clevis pins and have rigging inspected
upgrade travveler blocks and cleats
make storm hatches for doghouse windows
drogue
add compression post slash any needed strengthening
make colision mat out of an old yaga mat with grommets (heard it works wonders)
make a plate to fit to all dorade vents incase of knockdown
buld water jug locker in old inboard engine room
put spare ground tackle in box and store it in locker near center of boat to prevent it becoming a projectile
solar panels
set up sheet to tiller steering and look for windvane in my price range
add latches for all lockers and hatches
replace waterproof gaskets for all external hatches and lockers and bulkhead door
test rudder bearings the keel is encapsulated so need to worry about bolts
buy a barometer and an hf receiver any other ideas
 
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