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Do you think this boat is up to the tasks i set for it

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
oh yes i do have a 90 percent jib in very good condition actually there all hanked on something i had to learn with this boat being used to crewing on modern boats i was like what is this contraption took about 2 minutes on the water to figure it out. i was just concerned about atlantic storms u know and heaving to might be overpowered with a 90 percent jib. oh i never knew there were screw ins i shoud check the store for that hmmm for fuel storage i may be able to build a fuel locker in the aft cockpit locker it already has a vent built right in so sounds like a good place and it could fit around 100 or 200 us galons in that space its pretty large just need to build some sort of encapsulation for ground taxckle i have 1000 feet of three eights chain and about 2000 feet nylon and i have a 45 pound plow a 35 pound bruce and a 25 pound of one of thiose type everyone has the folding ones that are virtually useless. im definitely planning on having fun with sheet to tiller im guessing shock cord means bungee cord i wowonder if the book is available online anywhere hmm... oh and the rudder check sounds really straightforward illl just fdo that before launch next year, and that actually sounds ingenious how were they fastened to the window so they wouldnt fall off, and would the breaking strength of marine ply really protect tempered glass. oh wow for the jacklines the padeyes ssound like a good idea can u give me a better idea of how that would work ive akways used a climbing harness is that sufficient for sailing for me its always been like a just in case thing that i bring but am i being foolish using this. oh do they i figured they just checke for rotten core and keel bolts and this boat has neither keel bolts nor coring but i may get a survey i dont have insurance i figured on a 13 000 dollar boat do i really need it and foir the drogue thanks, ill check them out, also for storm jibs could i use a jib from my dhingy because its small or would it be too lightweight pf construction to do the job
 

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1000 feet of 3/8" chain? At over 1 1/2 lbs per foot that is over 1500 lbs.:confused:

1000 feet of nylon is pretty light.:)

100 to 200 US gallons in the stern? That is over 600 lbs for 100 gallons and 1200 lbs for 200 gallons - in the stern?

For sheet to tiller steering use surgical tubing. Shock cord doesn't last long in the sun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
100 feet of chain sorry finger was overzealous and well theres no tank and that may wheigh a bit much but it look like a cavernous space so i just did a rough guess probably much less than 100 gallons but its big although aft isnt the greatest place for a tank u know since it makes the boat rather unbalanced and makes it likely to be pooped and oh surgical tubing i heard of that i watched the videos from a guy circumnavigating in a vega i just never knew why but that makes sense but yes for gas i suppose aft is a bad idea i just figured its ventilated but on second thought id like a bouyant stern....hmmmmmm maybe more like 10 gallons there and maybe move my water storage to below thge v berth and my gas storage to in the old engine compartment but make it ventilated somehow its really a no good solution answer what about sailing off the coast of nova scotia would i need as much gas then although im assuming id get a nasty breeze from the labrodor sea
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
i checked that site u showed me for drogues is this stuff good for making jacklines Webbing Polyester 2" Black Seat Belt 5500# or would this here be sufficient Webbing Tubular Polyester 1" 2700# ive heard 6000 as the figure for breaking strength is that right or is 3000 more like a realistic necessarry breaking strength i mean obviously more is better but more also means ore likely to trip me also where can i find a tether ive never actually bought one
 

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I have a Contest 27'. I love it! It's my ninth and last sail boat. While others like the modern designs I prefer the old. I also don't watch Americas Cup racing anymore. Bring back the twelve meters and I will. I have no stringer rot and if my boat rounds up in heavy air I will reef or keep the main sheet in my hand so can dump some air. The deck does not flex and the mast does not compress the cabin top.
I have owned everything from a Bock 18 to a Bristol 40. This is my favorite, hands down. It's not the fastest. If I wanted fast I would buy a powerboat. I suggest you go to San Fransisco Single Handed Sailing and download the free book on singlehanded sailing.
 

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I have the same boat - Contest 30 Mk1. I sail it for 5 years in Mediterraneo with my wife. Maybe it is not the best boat, but i like it. It is very old (1967) but strong. During the passage from Sardinia to Menorca we experiensed the gale force 8 that lasted 2 days. The boat hove to well with small piece of rolled genoa and fixed tiller at the angle about 60 degree to the waves. I use self made selfsteering windvane during the passages. So I think it is e good small boat that you can buy cheap.
Good sailing. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
igorkiporouk how did you mke your windvane im curious, and i dont have a furler on mine would you suggest i get a storm jib or use the 90 percent working jib for heaving to also in your boat do you have a bige pump how is yours set up, since im planning on installing one on mine. ad i will definitely take a look at the book thaks for the tip :)
 

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My windvane is servopendulum, build it from scrap. It is not perfect, every year i modify it, but I would not go sailing without it. I don't have electrical autopilot.
I have only one set of sails, because last summer I shortened the mast, to bring the rig dimensions to original (it was somewhat bigger), and ordered main and genoa from Lee Sails. (Good quality and low price). Gennaker also Lee Sails.
The electrical bilge pump is small one, just to pump out the water that drips thru shaft seal (i keep it little bit loose for shaft lubrication) I have also manual diaphragm pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
if i were to build one like yours are there plans you used or a step by step thing i could follow, and how did you set up the manual bilge pump? where does it empty from the hull above the waterline im assuming. but yes if you could tll me how you made your windvane that would be awesome
 

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I would like to see more pictures of igorkipurok's boat, inside and out. I like stealing other peoples ideas. lA legitimate criticism of the early Contest boat is the use of mahogany on exterior wood. If not protected by paint or varnish it will eventually delaminate and, or rot. Teak is much better, it doesn't rot, it doesn't rust, it just waits for better days. 'Kinda like fiberglass

My cabin hatch has problems on the sides and aft. For now I'm using butyl backed silver foil tape on the edges. Wal Mart. The former owner painted the hatch and comming dark brown but did not address the water damage caused by water intrusion and subsiquent discoloration of the hatch's underside (in the cabin)

For me, these old Contests are like fine old cars or airplanes 'All clean and shiny and I'd be proud to take her anywhere, even to a Hincky Yacht gathering, since a member of that legendary family once owned mine.
 

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Perhaps i don't have some plan o instructions, just some rough sketches. I took something from Walt Murray (principal dimensions and crankshaft gear), some ideas from windpilot and others brands. I started to build it before i bought the boat and changed consruction several times adapting to materials that managed obtain cheaply o gratis. Some cuttings of SS pipes, pieces of plastic. I found on the beach plastik rudder from small sailing dinghy (or cat) and used it for pendulum oar blade (before that i broke two wooden blades). How i told before, i continue to make small improvements every season on the basis of experiense. If you want to build your own, i think the OS Walt free plan will be very useful. (look for it in internet,). It designed to use minimum tools and readily available materials. If you will like it, i still have some of its detailed drawings.
My manual bilge pumpe came with the boat. It is mounted in cocpit, under the bunk (see pics). Handle pipe i keep in locker. Suction pipe go in the same bilge sump, where electrical pump with floating switch mounted. Output Thru-Hull fitting is above waterline
 

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how come no matter what you buy whether it be a pair of shoes there alway someone waiting to pee on your bonfire you were happy with your boat till now only you and you a loan can tell how your boat sails every one have different experiences and views has he ever stopped to think it might have been his boat that was wrong for him and he was pushing it to hard ? just sail into the sunset and enjoy
 

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I am unfamiliar with the older Contest yachts, but I have owned a 1984 Contest 48 for 18 years and while I have sailed on a wide range of boats, from Swans to Hunters, there are few boats that I would be willing to take off-shore than mine. Not only was she built to take on the roughest conditions, but she does so without complaining and with a large degree of comfort for my wife and me. We have sailed her through a 987-millibar low without any damage or injuries and have covered tens of thousands of blue-water miles in above-average times. Her balance is remarkable and she heaves-to easily.

Whereas we don't get particularly good support from the Conyplex yard where she was built, I do get surprisingly quick responses from her designer, Dick Zaal. I don't know if Mr. Zaal designed the Contest 30 in question or not but, if he did, I would suggest that you contact him regarding some of the questions posed.

Fair winds and calm seas.
 

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You have the absolute wrong boat if you would "like to be able to take a 120 foot breaking wave broadside and survive". My family owned a Contest of the same era as your boat. While Contests were beautifully finished inside, from a build quality standpoint and mopre specifically from a structural viewpoint, they were very poorly engineered and constructed. While some of the built in defects may have been corrected by prior owners, and some of the could be corrected with a massive rebuilding effort, there is no work around for the poor handling characteristics of these boats.

And while this is true of many boats of this era, structurally, the internal framing of the Contests consisted of softwood framing poorly glassed into the hull. These elements included ncluded the tranverse frames which transfered the keel loads out to the hull.

Another questionable structural element was the mast support. On our boat, the mast would compress the deck to the point that if you chose to close the door to the forward cabin, the deck would compress making it impossible re-open the door again until sheets were eased and the point of sail altered sufficiently to take the strain off of the mast support.

Other build quality issues which may have been corrected by now, included a dubious electrical system which would cut out, and short out at random, black iron fuel tanks and iron engine exhaust systems.

During the time that we owned our boat, my father remedied as many of these built-in defects. The rest we lived with.

But the sailing characteristics was the worst thing about these boats. These were early fin keel-spade rudder boats. The hull forms were such that as these boats heeled over, they would jack up out of the water, and suddenly and unpredictably reach a point where they would aerate their rudders and round up without any warning. I have been on other boats with this same issue, but these were the worst that I have ever experienced. In many boats with this problem, there was some kind of clue that this was about to occur, and you would learn to watch for that clue such as limiting the heel to a maximum heel angle that was safe to prevent the round-up. In the case of the Contest in gusty conditions, this happened so suddenly, and without a 'tell', that you could not play the sails quickly enough to prevent the round up, and the round up could be so quick that it can throw you onto the other tack.

In constant wind and wave conditions this was not much of a problem, you could tweak and feather, but in the larger waves encountered offshore, and with the difference in wind strength between the trough and the crest, these boats would quickly wear down a crew.

For that reason, while these boats might make reasonable coastal cruisers, they would be somewhere near the bottom of a list of boats that I would ever think of making an offshore passage in.

Jeff
I"m just wondering Jeff, What boat do you own?
 

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I"m just wondering Jeff, What boat do you own?
I am curious as to why you are asking this question, but I currently own a Farr 11.6, (Farr design 72 rather than the later 11.6), which is a moderately high performance, offshore capable, cruiser. I have owned 16 boats over my sailing life from a wooden 1939 Stadel Cutter and a lapstrake 1949 Folkboat, some CCA era and IOR era racer/cruisers and a broad range of dinghies, race boats, racer-cruisers, and simple cruisers.

In reading my comments on the Contests above, I am a little concerned that they do not clearly tell the whole story. My comments should be seen as applying to the early models. At some point in the 1980's, Contest seemed to come up dramatically in their overall design and build quality and those boats have an excellent reputation. I have little or no experience with these later boats.

Jeff
 
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