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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Bristol 24 has three through hull fittings. I want to get two of them sealed: one is an illegal head and the other is the drain for an icebox. The less through hulls the better. The third one is for water from the tank to the sink and out through a valve.

What will it cost me if a yard hauled out the boat, glassed and sealed two of the thru hulls and put a new backing plate on the remaining one?

Hope this is clear
 

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The Bristol 24 has three through hull fittings. I want to get two of them sealed: one is an illegal head and the other is the drain for an icebox. The less through hulls the better. The third one is for water from the tank to the sink and out through a valve.

What will it cost me if a yard hauled out the boat, glassed and sealed two of the thru hulls and put a new backing plate on the remaining one?

Hope this is clear
Andyselzn

Where are you located? Are you currently in the water..or out?
Painted Hull, or Gelcoat?
Do you know the hourly labor rates of the yard that you will ask to do the work? You could just ask the yard for an estimate?

Are you planning on doing any of the prep work or, post operative work?
Like removing the hoses, painting etc.?

If you're in the water, you'd need to be hauled and then launched again..that's one charge.

If it's 8 hours of labor @ $90.00 to $100.00/hr that's $720/$800..in labor.
Materials add another $300/$400 You're at boat buck: $1,000/$1200 minimum. Probably more like $1500. plus hauling/launching ( if needed) and tax.

Take this estimate with a grain of salt though..
 

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I agree. I'd go into that expecting about $500 each.

You sure you want to get rid of the head one? That could be a water intake or pump outlet for a proper holding tank set up.

Otherwise I agree with the fridge. Mine drains into the bilge which is fine with me.
 

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OH... just making sure you have good fiberglass around the through hull fittings with working valves and good sealant behind the flanges should be enough, it's been fine all these years.
 

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If I remember from your previous post, one of the through hulls is frozen. That definitely needs attention. I would not glass over the head outlet - just close the through hull. A closed through hull is pretty secure. Gives you the option of installing a holding tank later with minimum work. And if you currently have a marine head installed, you must have a sea water intake for the head. You don't mention that.

Getting rid of the icebox drain makes sense. My current and previous boats had a manual pump installed in the drain that allowed pumping into the sink. A somewhat better alternative to running into the bilge as it avoids smells that occur if anything has spilled in the icebox.
 

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I agree with the concern that the head thru-hull is an inlet, not an outlet. Check carefully.

Figure 4 hours each for glassing over an inlet or for rebedding an existing seacock. Extra if the seacock needs to be lapped and rebuilt. Haul/splash is usually charged per foot.

As long as installation is well done and valves are maintained I would not stress over holes in the boat.
 

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The valves on my through hulls were threaded so I bought the corresponding brass plugs and now they are securely plugged but it can be reversed if need be down the road.

Cost: $10
Piece of mind knowing my 2 year old can no longer open my unused and unconnected through hull: Priceless!
 

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Figure 4 hours each for glassing over an inlet or for rebedding an existing seacock.
I'm surprised that it can be done properly in just 4 hours. Doing this well means beveling the hull 12:1 ratio (so if the hull is 1/2" thick you'll be grinding out 6" wide bevel all around the hole), making concentric circles of fiberglass that match that bevel (and as many circles as are necessary to build up hull thickness), then laminating all of it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The local yard charges about 14/ft to haul out, power wash the bottom, and re-launch. With an additional $45 per lay day (excludes haul out day). That will be about $400 for haul out + 2 days. And, a D-I-Y might present a lot of learning opportunity. Beats the $500 ish per through hull cost.

I like the ideas of closing the head fitting, re-doing the backing plate on the sink drain, and closing the ice box outlet and pumping it manually into the sink.
 

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If I were you, I would use bronze pipe plugs on the thru hulls you do not intend to use and close the valves. You will seriously devalue the boat by removing them.
 

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If I were you, I would use bronze pipe plugs on the thru hulls you do not intend to use and close the valves. You will seriously devalue the boat by removing them.
Exactly. That's why I did just that. Same piece of mind but reversible in just minutes.
 

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I'm surprised that it can be done properly in just 4 hours.
One of our customers had a trailer bunk capsize and drove a 2" galvanized channel through the hull. A real mess. One of our glass guys (admittedly one of our best) did a beautiful job fixing it. Four (4) billable hours over a Friday afternoon and Saturday morning. We launched the boat about 2p on Saturday. I looked at the fix while the boat was hanging in the slings - beautiful.
 

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The valves on my through hulls were threaded so I bought the corresponding brass plugs and now they are securely plugged but it can be reversed if need be down the road.

Cost: $10
Piece of mind knowing my 2 year old can no longer open my unused and unconnected through hull: Priceless!
Hope you meant to say bronze as a standard brass plug will corrode quickly. Might reverse itself sooner than anticipated.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
 

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Hope you meant to say bronze as a standard brass plug will corrode quickly. Might reverse itself sooner than anticipated.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
It could be bronze, not sure. It was a "yellow" metal and for the price I'm pretty sure it wasn't gold. I'm in a fresh water environment and they will be staying dry so it shouldn't be an issue either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
bronze plugs sound great. maybe all three! sleep better at night.

only thing is that if the boat is being hauled out, i am very tempted to get the bottom painted. the diver says it can easily go another year before bottom paint. since she will be sailed a bit, my guess is it could go even longer.
 

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I have Spartan seacocks on my 1975 B-24, where would I look to find Bronze plugs for these? The Spartan web site did not seem to have them.
Any direction would be much appreciated, Thanks.
 
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