Thanks, everyone! I have to admit, when I unfolded it in the yard I felt an urge to just try to use it. I think I'll do that.
Do I really just need a short painter for the tack, a spare halyard, and a single sheet?
-Charts
The stock bow roller on the Cal 29 is quite adequate for securing the tack of the sail. We did that with a short wire pendant that passed around the bow roller and was connected to the snap shackle of a mid-sized snatch block. To hold the block up, away from the deck when not under load, we passed a length of 1/4" shock cord through the snatch lock on the block and tied to the bow pulpit. The shock cord was "loose" to permit the block to rotate as necessary. A tack line from a cabin top winch and cleat ran up to and through the snatch block and allowed one to adjust the height of the tack which one needs do as the wind angle changes (Down and tighter for a close reach, farther off and higher for a run--ideally, the tack should be near the height of the clew although, with an asymmetric, that's not always possible. Note too that one can somewhat control the amount of power in the sail by adjusting the tack height.)
The sheets are passed through snatch-blocks on the quarters, outside of everything, and up to the bow. If one will use "inside" gybes (which are the most reliable) the sheet that will be to windward when the sail is launched is led forward of the head-stay but behind the tack line and back to the sail turtle (bag) which is clipped to the leeward life lines. In our case, the up- down-haul line for the sock is captured by a snatch block that is clipped to a pad eye on the foredeck rather than allowed to float free as some do. (The snatch block allows one to use all of one's strength to pull "up" on the line when either hoisting or lowering the sock, which is easier and safer then pulling down, particularly if one isn't quite so "hefty".) Note that when down hauling the sock to "dose" the sail, the down-haul line needs be on the same side of the head-stay as the sail and so must be "gybed" around the head-stay if the sail has been gybed.
We launch the sail by running off at roughly 120º apparent and hoisting the sock/sail behind the main and taking a strain on the lee sheet. (We don't hoist the sail all the way to the mast-head but leave it shy by about 2 feet or so to give the head of the sail room to rotate as necessary for trim.) With that, we ease the tack line by about 6 feet and, with my (much) better half (or the autopilot) holding that course, I up-haul the sock until the wind catches the sail, which will push the sock the rest of the way to the head of the sail. (By keeping a little pressure on the up- down-haul line, I can control the rate at which that happens.) With this, one can stroll back to the cockpit and trim the sail by adjusting the working sheet and tack line as necessary- tightening the sheet only enough to take any "curl" out of the sail's luff.
Depending upon how close to the wind we will be sailing, we may use a "tacker", which is a device that holds the sail's tack close to the head-stay, but we do not always do so as it prevents the tack line from following the "curve" of the luff and can make trimming somewhat more problematic.
Dosing the sail is simply the reverse of the launch procedure.
For more see (click on)
Cruising with an Asymmetric Spinnaker.
By the way, our "Avatar", above left, is the asymmetrical on our current boat with colors/design laid out on a blank line drawing of the sail by my daughter when she was 9 years old!
FWIW...