I have a similar setup on our current boat. The previous boats had the bearings pressed into bronze struts and it was pretty straight forward to press them out. Those bearings were not tapered. I'm going to sit back now and see if I can learn from someone who has dealt with the bearing being set directly in the fiberglass material.
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Cutlass bearing question
I've read what I can find on Cutlass bearings. It appears mine is a press fit, 25mm shaft, 40mm OD and about 4 inches long. Although I've worn the "G" off my keyboard I've been unable to find any information specific to my boat -- an Omega 36, Swedish built, 1986.
Are these things tapered? Can I just buy a 25mmX40mm 4 inch Cutlass bearing and expect it to work?
I just had the boat hauled to work on a leak around the stern tube and installed a PSS shaft seal. I'll be replacing the Cutlass bearing in the spring when I haul the boat to do the bottom paint.
A couple pics of what I have.
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Are these things tapered? Can I just buy a 25mmX40mm 4 inch Cutlass bearing and expect it to work?
I just had the boat hauled to work on a leak around the stern tube and installed a PSS shaft seal. I'll be replacing the Cutlass bearing in the spring when I haul the boat to do the bottom paint.
A couple pics of what I have.
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1 - 20 of 23 Posts
It looks like there's an outer sleeve into which the cutlass bearing fits, and it's held in by the allen set screw, likely from either side. I'd say it's unlikely to be tapered.
It might be difficult to pull out, though, esp if it's been there a while. If there's some clearance inside the sleeve at the back of the bearing a puller might get a grip and allow you to knock it out... but that could be problematic.
This'll be interesting...
It might be difficult to pull out, though, esp if it's been there a while. If there's some clearance inside the sleeve at the back of the bearing a puller might get a grip and allow you to knock it out... but that could be problematic.
This'll be interesting...
I forgot to mention this, there are no set screws. The holes on each side appear to be just for allowing water in.
I've heard that some folks use a saw to carefully cut the cutlass bearing into two halves, lengthwise to facilitate removal.
I've seen that method documented somewhere on the web and its probably the way to go assuming the prop shaft is already out.I've heard that some folks use a saw to carefully cut the cutlass bearing into two halves, lengthwise to facilitate removal.
Might be the only way for a boat without a shaft strut.
Last time my boat was out I had the yard replace mine. I wanted to do it but ran out of time. They used a tool something like this...
Cutless-Bearing Replacement
Cutless-Bearing Replacement
Probably a Strutpro. That's what I used do change mine, but that type tool will not work on the OP's boat.Last time my boat was out I had the yard replace mine. I wanted to do it but ran out of time. They used a tool something like this...
Cutless-Bearing Replacement
Strut Pro Cutless Bearing Replacement Tools
Here you go, but in the interest of disclosure, I have a strut so I have not actually done the job on an enclosed cutlass bearing, BUT I did not need to access the forward end of the bearing so the procedure should work.
EXTRACTION:
1. With a screwdriver or similar, remove as much of the rubber as possible.
2. Take a hacksaw blade and a) grip it with vice grips on one end or b) use one of the commercial holders that allow the blade to project forward unimpeded. I used vice gips because I was too lazy and cheap to buy the holder. Use a rather coarse tpi or you'll be at it all day.
3. Cut/score as much of the inside of the cutlass bearing as possible. It may be difficult to maintain contact along the length of the inside of the bearing, but do the best that you can.
4. Don't worry about cutting through the bearing into the housing. This is slow work. And you'll be stopping often to ask yourself if you'll ever finish (and to cuss me out)
5. When you're almost through the bearing, take a small screwdriver and insert/tap it between the bearing and the housing. This will cause the bearing and housing to separate. Work a larger screwdriver in until there is enough room to grip the bearing with vice grips.
6. Don't worry if you score the inside of the housing a little. Don't go ape on it, be careful, but if there is some scoring at the opening where the screwdriver was inserted, it won't affect performance at all. This isn't brain surgery.
7. With the vice grips, twist the cutlass bearing inward to collapse it. With luck and if you cut enough, it will break along the scored line made by the hacksaw blade. Work it until you can pull it out. This may/will require some effort, but it will come loose (I'm assuming that there really aren't any set screws. If so remove them!)
INSTALLATION
1. With fine sandpaper (220 grit) clean the inside of the housing.
2. Remove the new bearing from its packaging and store in the freezer overnight. Transport to the boat in a cooler packed in ice. This will shrink the new bearing enough to insert. Don't skimp on the freeze time.
3. Coat the cleaned housing with dish soap. Be liberal with the soap
4. Insert the new, frozen bearing in the housing that's coated in soap. Be careful and make sure that it's lined up. It will not go in if cocked.
5 You can make a press using a 1/2" or 3/4" threaded rod and fat washers. This is what I use. Practice before actually freezing the bearing and trying the installation.
5a. Put a nut on one end of the rod, slip on a couple of washers and insert from the inside of the boat through the housing, to the outside.
5b. The rod should be long enough to go through the housing, plus the length of the new bearing, plus about 3".
5c. Slip the frozen bearing over the rod and and place a 2 or 3 washers over the end of the rod.
5d. The washer's diameter should be larger than the bearing's diameter.
5e. Place a nut over the whole contraption and snug up.
5f. With a large wrench tighten the nut, and the cutlass bearing will easily be drawn into the housing.
Alternate to Step 5 above: I haven't tried it, but should work if you're careful. Take a short section of 2"x4" lumber and place over the aft end of the new bearing and tap with a hammer, distributing your blows around the edge of the bearing (hit at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions). The bearing should go right into the housing. The 2x4 is ultra-important because it distributes the impact of the blows and keeps the end of the cutlass bearing from getting buggered up.
BONUS: I've also used the press described above as an extractor. Just set it up in reverse and it will aid in Step 7 above. You still have to do steps 1-6, but 7 is a little easier. The size of the washers must be exact or you won't be able to draw the old bearing through the housing.
Good luck. I've done this job three times and have never had a problem or failure. Should take an hour or two to get the old bearing out and 15 minutes to get the new one in.
EXTRACTION:
1. With a screwdriver or similar, remove as much of the rubber as possible.
2. Take a hacksaw blade and a) grip it with vice grips on one end or b) use one of the commercial holders that allow the blade to project forward unimpeded. I used vice gips because I was too lazy and cheap to buy the holder. Use a rather coarse tpi or you'll be at it all day.
3. Cut/score as much of the inside of the cutlass bearing as possible. It may be difficult to maintain contact along the length of the inside of the bearing, but do the best that you can.
4. Don't worry about cutting through the bearing into the housing. This is slow work. And you'll be stopping often to ask yourself if you'll ever finish (and to cuss me out)
5. When you're almost through the bearing, take a small screwdriver and insert/tap it between the bearing and the housing. This will cause the bearing and housing to separate. Work a larger screwdriver in until there is enough room to grip the bearing with vice grips.
6. Don't worry if you score the inside of the housing a little. Don't go ape on it, be careful, but if there is some scoring at the opening where the screwdriver was inserted, it won't affect performance at all. This isn't brain surgery.
7. With the vice grips, twist the cutlass bearing inward to collapse it. With luck and if you cut enough, it will break along the scored line made by the hacksaw blade. Work it until you can pull it out. This may/will require some effort, but it will come loose (I'm assuming that there really aren't any set screws. If so remove them!)
INSTALLATION
1. With fine sandpaper (220 grit) clean the inside of the housing.
2. Remove the new bearing from its packaging and store in the freezer overnight. Transport to the boat in a cooler packed in ice. This will shrink the new bearing enough to insert. Don't skimp on the freeze time.
3. Coat the cleaned housing with dish soap. Be liberal with the soap
4. Insert the new, frozen bearing in the housing that's coated in soap. Be careful and make sure that it's lined up. It will not go in if cocked.
5 You can make a press using a 1/2" or 3/4" threaded rod and fat washers. This is what I use. Practice before actually freezing the bearing and trying the installation.
5a. Put a nut on one end of the rod, slip on a couple of washers and insert from the inside of the boat through the housing, to the outside.
5b. The rod should be long enough to go through the housing, plus the length of the new bearing, plus about 3".
5c. Slip the frozen bearing over the rod and and place a 2 or 3 washers over the end of the rod.
5d. The washer's diameter should be larger than the bearing's diameter.
5e. Place a nut over the whole contraption and snug up.
5f. With a large wrench tighten the nut, and the cutlass bearing will easily be drawn into the housing.
Alternate to Step 5 above: I haven't tried it, but should work if you're careful. Take a short section of 2"x4" lumber and place over the aft end of the new bearing and tap with a hammer, distributing your blows around the edge of the bearing (hit at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions). The bearing should go right into the housing. The 2x4 is ultra-important because it distributes the impact of the blows and keeps the end of the cutlass bearing from getting buggered up.
BONUS: I've also used the press described above as an extractor. Just set it up in reverse and it will aid in Step 7 above. You still have to do steps 1-6, but 7 is a little easier. The size of the washers must be exact or you won't be able to draw the old bearing through the housing.
Good luck. I've done this job three times and have never had a problem or failure. Should take an hour or two to get the old bearing out and 15 minutes to get the new one in.
I did my cutlass bearing a month ago.
Similar, but less involved than sabreman's procedure.
I had one setscrew (hard to find under the layers of paint) to remove.
Borrowed a cordless sawzall to make three cuts (30 seconds per cut) and removed the bearing.
Cleaned the tube and installed new bearing with a block of wood and large hammer.
Not much to it really. I have never seen the bottom of my boat before or a cutlass bearing and including shaft removal and re-installation I was done in 4 hrs.
Similar, but less involved than sabreman's procedure.
I had one setscrew (hard to find under the layers of paint) to remove.
Borrowed a cordless sawzall to make three cuts (30 seconds per cut) and removed the bearing.
Cleaned the tube and installed new bearing with a block of wood and large hammer.
Not much to it really. I have never seen the bottom of my boat before or a cutlass bearing and including shaft removal and re-installation I was done in 4 hrs.
I like the Sawzall idea. But since I don't own one, I probably wouldn't buy one for this job......like I said, I'm lazy and cheap. Ok. Not lazy, but definitely cheap. :laugher
Like ncapener said, this is an easy job and doesn't take long.
Like ncapener said, this is an easy job and doesn't take long.
What kind of boat? I think on my boat and I think many other similar designs, the rudder has to come out before the shaft will, hence the beauty of the Strut Pro.I did my cutlass bearing a month ago.
Similar, but less involved than sabreman's procedure.
I had one setscrew (hard to find under the layers of paint) to remove.
Borrowed a cordless sawzall to make three cuts (30 seconds per cut) and removed the bearing.
Cleaned the tube and installed new bearing with a block of wood and large hammer.
Not much to it really. I have never seen the bottom of my boat before or a cutlass bearing and including shaft removal and re-installation I was done in 4 hrs.
Having never done the job before, I did mine alone and in the rain in about 4 hours including a run to the hardware store for a large adjustable wrench because I didn't have a large enough socket for the prop nut but could have been done a lot sooner if I had one other person to help.
Midlife - I believe that the strut-prop, or similar devices, only work on boats that actually have a separate strut that holds the cutlass bearing. On the OP's boat, the cutlass bearing is mounted inside the hull itself, so you do not have access to the forward end of the cutlass bearing. The strut-pro device lets you squeeze the cutlass in, while still having the prop shaft in there as well, but would only work on boats ( the majority nowadays) with struts.
What kind of boat? I think on my boat and I think many other similar designs, the rudder has to come out before the shaft will, hence the beauty of the Strut Pro.
Folkes 39
Rudder has a cut-out that allows the shaft to slide out.
I understand that and mentioned it in a previous post. I was just pointing out why there is such a tool in response to a post by someone that had a boat designed for uncomplicated prop strut removal. That aint the case with a lot of boats.Midlife - I believe that the strut-prop, or similar devices, only work on boats that actually have a separate strut that holds the cutlass bearing. On the OP's boat, the cutlass bearing is mounted inside the hull itself, so you do not have access to the forward end of the cutlass bearing. The strut-pro device lets you squeeze the cutlass in, while still having the prop shaft in there as well, but would only work on boats ( the majority nowadays) with struts.
I go to the in-house expert
Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Dave
Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Dave
BreakingWind2 - This is an awesome photo log. It should be permanently archived on Sailnet for reference since we seem to get about 10 cutlass bearing removal queries a year! The threaded rod installation device is EXACTLY like the one that I thought that I invented! Very cool to see someone else do exactly the same thing.
I love the idea about cutting right where the set screws are and then threading a bolt through to break the bearing loose. I inserted a screwdriver between the strut and the bearing to collapse it where I'd scored it. Using the bolts is so much more elegant.
I love Sailnet
I love the idea about cutting right where the set screws are and then threading a bolt through to break the bearing loose. I inserted a screwdriver between the strut and the bearing to collapse it where I'd scored it. Using the bolts is so much more elegant.
I love Sailnet
selecting and fitting a cutless bearing
You can use a clearance fit composite bearing, inserted on a bed of epoxy. Release agent can be put on the outside of the bearing to aid removal. Here is one on a new build.
The great advantage of a clearance fit is that they can be slid in by hand, and also that they are a very good confirmation that the stern tube or P bracket, bearinf carrier is aligned. Chock the shaft and you should be able to spin the bearing on the shaft and in the carrier.
They can also be machined to suit a range of bearing carrier inside diameters.
You can use a clearance fit composite bearing, inserted on a bed of epoxy. Release agent can be put on the outside of the bearing to aid removal. Here is one on a new build.
The great advantage of a clearance fit is that they can be slid in by hand, and also that they are a very good confirmation that the stern tube or P bracket, bearinf carrier is aligned. Chock the shaft and you should be able to spin the bearing on the shaft and in the carrier.
They can also be machined to suit a range of bearing carrier inside diameters.
If you bed the bearing on epoxy, removal is easy.
If it's in a metal carrier just heat the metal and the epoxy softens, it slides out as it is a clearance fit. If it's in grp with a release agent you can split the joint and it will slide out.
No need for presses, pullers or hammers.
If it's in a metal carrier just heat the metal and the epoxy softens, it slides out as it is a clearance fit. If it's in grp with a release agent you can split the joint and it will slide out.
No need for presses, pullers or hammers.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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