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Been there, done that, got the T shirt.

A long time ago when I was into varnish ... 4 coats oil based, let cure, 4-6 coats of urethane varnish, let cure, 2-3 coats of catalyzed automotive clear coat, then flat sand and powerbuff (finishing!). This did the trick for those who didnt listen that brightwork was not to be stepped on or walked on. Spar varnish is SOFT varnish and easily gouged. If you want to continue with varnish, Id suggest you find someone (usually older than God) who can MAKE you some HARD old-fashioned BARTOP varnish but with added UV filters such as nanoparticle sized Ferrous Oxide. HARD varnish is brittle so youll have to sand it off every 5 years and start over after it cracks/shatters. Obviously HARD varnish cant be applied to flexible applications.

I now use catalyzed 2-part base + 2 part urethane-acrylics (HoneyTeak, etc.) and although the 'walkers' including my dogs with dog nails may occasional scratch the finish, they dont gouge the finish. This stuff is 'hard' yet flexible and since it has an acrylic it can be power-buffed back to brilliance or easily repaired. Normally catalyzed acrylic-urethanes are overcoated every one to two years anyway. I usually overcoat at 3yrs and powerbuff in between; but, I always apply extra-thick.

Honey Teak -- Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home
Its expensive with very high learning curve; but, if the base is put down thicker than recommenced can last 12+ years, and just needs a clear overcoat every few [1-2-3 depending on latitude] years thereafter. When amortized over its normal service life its cheaper than anything else.
 
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