SailNet Community banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have found the source of a deck leak, someone? maybe even the Manufacturer ran an attaching screw for a headliner panel all the way through the hull/deck joint opening a hole all the way to the bolt on toe rail. Its directly in line with the toe rail/ hull deck bolts. What is the best fix, I can clean out and open up the hole from the bottom easily. Maybe even with a squared end drill bit and fill with epoxy or 5200, which would be best? I am open to suggestions Drilling all the way through and bolting is an option but I don't see the need to drill the rub rail I think all I need to do is seal the hull/deck penetration. The water is running under the rub rail and through the Fiberglas, the rail is unaffected at this point.
The Boat is a CS30 with aluminum rail FYI
Thanks for any help. AL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,184 Posts
If you seal the hole below, and water is still leaking into the joint, it could be getting into the core of the deck. Leaks should always be sealed above, never below, the deck, for this reason.

Question is, why are the hull/deck bolts leaking?
 

·
Sailor
Joined
·
935 Posts
Ok, so do I have this correct: someone drilled and put a long screw from the inside that went through the headliner, through the hull and into the metal rub rail on the outside of the hull. The screw head is inside the boat? Is this what happened?

There is no hole in the deck but one in the hull. Correct? Am I also correct in my understanding that the hull is not cored?

All of this correct then I believe that if you can inject 5200 caulk into the screw hole in the HULL after removing the screw you should be good. You can do that from the inside as I would not remove the rubrail to work from the outside.

Tod
 

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so do I have this correct: someone drilled and put a long screw from the inside that went through the headliner, through the hull and into the metal rub rail on the outside of the hull. The screw head is inside the boat? Is this what happened?

There is no hole in the deck but one in the hull. Correct? Am I also correct in my understanding that the hull is not cored?

All of this correct then I believe that if you can inject 5200 caulk into the screw hole in the HULL after removing the screw you should be good. You can do that from the inside as I would not remove the rubrail to work from the outside.

Tod
This is exactly correct, and its in the non-cored portion of the deck, just the two solid sections where the rub rail bolts together and its a small screw #6 or#4 and I measured the depth with a small probe and it stops before penetrating the rub rail. Like I said could have been built that way some water damage in the panel below. I agree removing a section of rail would be an overreaction so I'm going to open up the hole enough to fill with something from below. The way I see it filling the deck part (top section) is most important but filling all the way through is not going to hurt anything but since this is a bolted and not a bonded assembly would the flexible 5200 be better than epoxy. Sounds like yes but I wanted opinions. Thanks..
When it stops raining I will take care of this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
The CS boats have solid glass inward turned flange on hull with solid deck flange being sandwiched between the hull flange and extruded aluminum toe rail. There is a continuous length of 1", before compression, wide butyl tape applied between the two flanges when assembled and the bolts compress it all down. There is no butyl between the deck flange and the bottom of the toe rail. I'd dispose of the screw if it is not doing anything and hand tighten the 1/4" toe rail bolts to further compress the butyl, probably no more than 1/4 to one full turn, this should ooze butyl through the hole. If you are concerned about toe rail bolts continuing to leak you can remove the ones of concern, wrap butyl around the bolts below the bolt heads then install. CS is not known for toe rail leaks or the type of screw installation you describe, sounds like after build situation by service or previous owner. What is/was the screw for?

Removing the toe rail is overkill.
 

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It was holding up the wood clip the headliner screws to just behind the port chainplate this particular screw can be left out. I hadn't considered just snugging up the toe rail, that might just work since the offending hole is directly in line with the through bolts so the butyl might fill in.
One thing that slows the process down is having to wait for rain to look for leaks, the water is off for the season so I cant spray it down and this is a project I need to work out before replacing all the interior panels.
Thanks Guys
 

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The CS boats have solid glass inward turned flange on hull with solid deck flange being sandwiched between the hull flange and extruded aluminum toe rail. There is a continuous length of 1", before compression, wide butyl tape applied between the two flanges when assembled and the bolts compress it all down. There is no butyl between the deck flange and the bottom of the toe rail. I'd dispose of the screw if it is not doing anything and hand tighten the 1/4" toe rail bolts to further compress the butyl, probably no more than 1/4 to one full turn, this should ooze butyl through the hole. If you are concerned about toe rail bolts continuing to leak you can remove the ones of concern, wrap butyl around the bolts below the bolt heads then install. CS is not known for toe rail leaks or the type of screw installation you describe, sounds like after build situation by service or previous owner. What is/was the screw for?

Removing the toe rail is overkill.
Follow up on this leak, Thanks again for the tightening suggestion that's all it took, I left the hole there and I can feel the Butyl that squeezed into the hole with a small probe from below so all is well. I will check from time to time but I think I'm OK. I'm quite sure the boat was built this way, as I look there are two more screws in the same place and three more on the other side attaching a block the headliner screws into. All indication is the liners and attachments are original this is the only one creating a leak. I will bond something to the offending area so I have something to screw into without using the fiberglass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
That's great news. Simple problem with a simple solution. We tightened every toe rail boat on C & C 32, removed all stanchion bases, countersunk bottom of the holes to accommodate more butyl, aft and forward deck cleats too. Now no leaks apparent. EXCEPT the brown ooze dripping on to the starboard quarter berth teak that lines the hull, pulling all 11 winches to tear down and rebed before launch. Work never ends :D\\
Sail on!
 

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No doubt easy fix, I could get something on all toe rail bolts but lots of stuff to remove for some of them so no PM there this I'm sure is an isolated incident.
I am tightening all the Genoa tracks they are easy to get to and could get a half turn on port side easy enough, may remove and re-bed I'm told its a 10 year recommendation anyway bit I wonder how many get done at all.
I did find one more (leak) not really a leak, there is a dorade scoop over the emergency tiller opening on deck that gets some rain water in a downpour so it probably will go. Its up high on the backrest not the floor so not a particularly critical area but with the slack bilge I'm trying to get to where all I need to manage is the stuffing box leakage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
I am tightening all the Genoa tracks they are easy to get to and could get a half turn on port side easy enough, may remove and re-bed I'm told its a 10 year recommendation anyway bit I wonder how many get done at all.
I did find one more (leak) not really a leak, there is a dorade scoop over the emergency tiller opening on deck that gets some rain water in a downpour so it probably will go. Its up high on the backrest not the floor so not a particularly critical area but with the slack bilge I'm trying to get to where all I need to manage is the stuffing box leakage.
Most preventative maintenance like this tends to get overlooked until an actual leak occurs. I'm convinced the two previous owners of the C & C didn't or care much about maintenance. Took a methodical plan, crew co-ordination and 3 seasons to get it done. If you are tightening bolts it's best to hold the heads secure and have the nuts turned only.
The CS factory equipped the rudder stock access with a cover not a scoop, is it the bilge blower exit?
 

·
al brazzi
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Two man method on tightening through bolts for sure. Bilge blower has its own outlet so the vent is getting covered. I have a maintenance list for sure, drying a few things out will help me move on. One of the most important things I WILL do is valve the ice box back to the water tank and overboard probably pumped through the galley basin (don't use the word *ink on my boat) PO had it draining into the bilge or (factory) hand pump to the basin do you know how long it takes to hand pump a cooler full of water!! and if its dirty I don't want to reuse it. Bilge pumps will not dry the bilge on my CS its just too shallow. Before I replace the cabin sole I need water management.

Thanks again. AL
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top