SailNet Community banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Replacing deck light with basically the same unit, except the last one was halogen, and this one LED.

A little confused at what goes where I hope someone can give me a little guidance. Seems clear to me that the white one will attach with a butt connector just like with the last light, but where I get a little lost is where in the old fixture the white, black and green go through into the mast light portion (where the white and black were held together under a screw...and the green one does too but under a different screw).

I think...since the black and white ones went together under that screw, that I twist them together and join them with the black/white one coming out the back of the new unit (see picture, they appear to be soldered together). But then I really dont know where the red "hot" wire goes at all...unless it's to the green? But I think green and is probably the ground.

NOTE: Pic #2 is the flip side of where the black/white/green wires go through.
139539


139540



139543


139544


139545
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
You should have 2 positives plus a negative coming from the mast. 1 positive for the steaming light, one positive for the deck light, and one negative that both lights share. (There is no "ground" on dc circuits)

Use your multimeter to figure out which wire is which, and make the connection as per the new fixture instructions. Don't assume the old fixture was wired correctly.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should have 2 positives plus a negative coming from the mast. 1 positive for the steaming light, one positive for the deck light, and one negative that both lights share. (There is no "ground" on dc circuits)

Use your multimeter to figure out which wire is which, and make the connection as per the new fixture instructions. Don't assume the old fixture was wired correctly.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
Thanks for your reply, and the reminder that there is no ground on a DC circuit. lol

My mast is still on the rack, so there's no closed circuit; my multimeter won't be of much use, I guess.

Can anyone offer some guidance based on the pic? I had assumed simply replacing the light would be more straight forward that what I found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
Hey,

Bring a 12V battery and some wires and wire it up with the mast in the rack. I keep and old car battery around. It won't start the car anymore but it can run a 12V light. Use some wire nuts to make temp connections. Use alligator clips if your mast plug has pins.

Much easier than climbing the mast!

Barry


Thanks for your reply, and the reminder that there is no ground on a DC circuit. lol

My mast is still on the rack, so there's no closed circuit; my multimeter won't be of much use, I guess.

Can anyone offer some guidance based on the pic? I had assumed simply replacing the light would be more straight forward that what I found.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Most likely, the old black wire from the mast connects to the combined black and white from the new light. The old white wire from the mast (with the butt connector) connects to the white wire from the new light. And the green from the mast connects to the red wire on the new light. The black and white wire joined in the old light probably were both negative, and the white and green were probably the positive for the deck light and the steaming light, respectively. The way to test this set of assumptions is to find where the wires from the base of the mast connect to the wires from the electrical panel. (Usually at the base of the mast.) If you're lucky they will have the same color codes, and you can use your volt meter to confirm whether there are 12V+ between the green wire and the black wire when you turn the switch for the steaming light, and 12V+ between the white wire and the black wire when you turn the switch for the deck light. If that's true, then what I described should work. But be sure that the LEDs are installed correctly in the light fixture, as unlike a halogen bulb, an LED may not work if the polarity is reversed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Most likely, the old black wire from the mast connects to the combined black and white from the new light. The old white wire from the mast (with the butt connector) connects to the white wire from the new light. And the green from the mast connects to the red wire on the new light. The black and white wire joined in the old light probably were both negative, and the white and green were probably the positive for the deck light and the steaming light, respectively. The way to test this set of assumptions is to find where the wires from the base of the mast connect to the wires from the electrical panel. (Usually at the base of the mast.) If you're lucky they will have the same color codes, and you can use your volt meter to confirm whether there are 12V+ between the green wire and the black wire when you turn the switch for the steaming light, and 12V+ between the white wire and the black wire when you turn the switch for the deck light. If that's true, then what I described should work. But be sure that the LEDs are installed correctly in the light fixture, as unlike a halogen bulb, an LED may not work if the polarity is reversed.
Thanks for this. Yeah, that's the only thing that made sense to me, so I'll test this. Only thing I dont get is why the green wire just ends at that screw on the old light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
756 Posts
The reason your mast wires are W B G is that whoever wired it before used an A/C cable. I can't tell from the picture if it's marine wire or not. You absolutely, at a minimum want stranded wire, tinned marine grade stranded wire is best. The solid wire used in houses is no good and will work harden with vibration and fail.

The green and white wires are probably the positive wires. you can test with a little 9v battery which will also light the LEDs (for testing purposes). The extra white wire bound to the black wire is the negative from one of the lights. They both can go to the same negative down the mast.

Since the mast is down, consider pulling all new wire while it's easy. I'd also put a rubber grommet in the hole through the mast so it never chafes and use heat shrink connecters for moisture proofing.

I've rewired two standing masts this year and it's a lot more work. I'd redo the whole thing new while it was down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The reason your mast wires are W B G is that whoever wired it before used an A/C cable. I can't tell from the picture if it's marine wire or not. You absolutely, at a minimum want stranded wire, tinned marine grade stranded wire is best. The solid wire used in houses is no good and will work harden with vibration and fail.

The green and white wires are probably the positive wires. you can test with a little 9v battery which will also light the LEDs (for testing purposes). The extra white wire bound to the black wire is the negative from one of the lights. They both can go to the same negative down the mast.

Since the mast is down, consider pulling all new wire while it's easy. I'd also put a rubber grommet in the hole through the mast so it never chafes and use heat shrink connecters for moisture proofing.

I've rewired two standing masts this year and it's a lot more work. I'd redo the whole thing new while it was down.
Yeah, I thought something was off as I attached it. Thank you for this information, I'm def going to rewire the mast but will probably wait until October cuz this season is already too short. I was already planning on replacing my halyards in the fall anyway, now I've got more mast-related projects.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top