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Discussion Starter #1
Third round of questions for this novice... I'm 2 days away from painting and have some concerns I need advice on before I screw something up.

So far my prep work has consisted of filling all cracks and dings with epoxy, sanding those spots smooth, sanding down areas with excessive spider cracks, I've removed several pieces of hardware for rebedding (more Qs on this later), and now I'm starting to tape off the remaining hardware.

I bought a quart of perfection off white and a quart of PrimeKote. I was told to only use the primer on the areas that I've repaired. Just realized that I need double the perfection that I originally calculated (decided the cover molded pattern non-skid with perfection instead of kiwigrip). First issue, I have a quart of off white and would like to buy another half gallon to have enough for 2 coats. West Marine only has half gallons of snow white. Can I mix? Any other ideas for maintaining that off white color I wanted to go for. It's an old boat and I'm far from a professional painter. I figure the more "off" I get it, the less likely it is that my poor painting will be obvious.

I'm once again considering painting the hull above the waterline. I've already taken weeks on the deck what's a couple more days to get the topside done. I'm going with navy blue. (despite being advised against it by several sailnet community members). Boat is currently white but underneath the faded layer of gelcoat I can see that the boat used to be a light shade of sky blue. I expect I'll need at least a gallon so I'm inclined to buy either Interlux Brightside or West Marine's brand. How important is it that I prime? I plan on only sanding the areas that are in rough shape.

Also, the boat currently has 2 navy stripes. These were painted with Rustoleum. Will a one part polyurethane attach to the rustoleum? The upper stripe is elevated from the rest of the surface by about 2mm. That's not something I can sand down. I'm considering painting a white strip over it.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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Two comments:

You should find out what caused the spider cracks and solve the problem or they will come right back. Backing plates. More laminate. Whatever.

Brightsides is a great paint but it does not last long enough for the topsides in my opinion. I'd use Awlgrip as it seems to apply somewhat better with casual technique.

As for color...navy blue is the worst possible choice for so many reasons. Off white is the friend of non-pros.
 

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Ditto on the spider cracks. They'll be back if not addressed and repaired. You mentioned "sanding them down", but I don't know what's gained by that.

You mentioned questions on bedding, later. Hard to beat MaineSail's information on butyl tape technique. marinehowto.com

Use the primer only on the repaired areas? What does Interlux say about that?

It's been a long time since I've painted a deck, but have you addressed how you'll prepare the nonskid to accept the paint? It used to be that all areas to be painted needed to be sanded first. Easy enough on smooth areas, but non-skid doesn't sand well. There used to be a no-sand liquid that could be applied to non-skid to prepare it for primer. And what about the original mold release wax still in the non-skid areas? Or the flat areas for that matter. I'm giving you more questions than answers, but my point is to be sure you've covered all your prep bases with regard to the nonskid.

Off white....whether you go off-white or white will make little difference in a roll & tip paint job with 2 part paint. If you're at all proficient, that is. Hypothetically, if you're a total putz, there could be a difference, but if you're that bad, either color is going to look bad.

I wouldn't go with a one-part on the topsides. YMMV. If you want the new paint to stick, sand everywhere. And prime everywhere. A "couple days" to get the topsides done? Seriously? Sounds like a down and dirty job, which is fine if that's what you want. When I paint topsides, surface prep is everything. Filling scratches and gouges and sanding them smooth, and maintaining fairness doesn't go that quickly...at least for me. With regard to the navy blue, consider the collective wisdom of Sailnet. If I ever did a dark color, and I wouldn't (again), the prep would have to be METICULOUS. If it isn't, why have a dark color that just draws attention to the flaws?

With regard to the Rustoleum...I dunno. Certainly sand it. Better if sanded and primed.

Striping the raised area with a strip sounds fine. As long as you're doing all the other painting, I suppose a painted stripe makes sense as opposed to vinyl striping. Double stripe with two colors? Up to your artistic sense.

On a side note, when I post a query on Sailnet, almost invariably I'm wanting to know how to do a job RIGHT, and to a high standard. When I reply to someone's query, I assume they're going for that same high standard, unless they say otherwise. When you talk about two days to complete the topsides, and sanding select portions of your project, I don't know if you're deliberately cutting corners or if you don't know what procedures yield excellent results. If you're looking for a quick/easy solution, that's AOK, but useful to your respondents if you let us know how good a job you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't mean spider cracks around attach hardware. They're essentially like spider webs in flat areas with nothing apparent there to cause them. They seem to form in circular spots.

Siamese... marinehowto.com. Great info! Thanks.

According to interlux I can prep the smooth areas the same as the non-skid (provided that I'm painting over the original gel coat). Scrub clean with 202 de-waxing solvent, go over with scotch-brite pad (instead of sanding), and finally wipe down with 2333 solvent right before application. I think I mentioned I wanted to avoid sanding and priming the non-skid to not lose the grip of my molded non-skid pattern.

Of course I'd like to see excellent results, but at the same time I don't want to be sitting in the boat yard for another month while summer passes me by. I don't expect to spend more than 5 years with this boat so sure I'm fine with cutting the corners that aren't absolutely essential. Appreciate all the advice I can get.

Travlineasy, I did purchase a quart of kiwigrip as you recommended in my previous thread. However after giving it some thought I don't think covering the molded non-skid pattern with kiwigrip will look good, feel good or do me much good. I decided to return it and hope that 2 coats of perfection over my current non skid will preserve enough grip.
 

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Actually, in my experience, the Kiwi grip looks great, very easy to apply, but because the non-skid surface is very aggressive it can be rough on bare skin. However, it IS the BEST non skid surface available and that's what the vast majority of the ocean racing sailboats use it. You will not slip with this surface beneath your feet. And, from what I'm told, it wears like iron. I only have two years on my Kiwi-Grip so far, maybe 50 trips, and no signs of wear at all.

All the best,

Gary :cool:
 

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2 part International Perfection will almost certainly react with Rustoleum. You may get away it but the result if it reacts will reduce you to tears and leave you with a major mess.

It sounds to me that you are after a quick job. In this case Perfection is a bad choice. I would use a one part paint Interdeck for the deck, Brightsides for the hull.
 

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New, smooth/shiny paint on any existing 'nonskid' pattern will not retain it's 'grip'.. you might get some back as you gradually wear the new paint off the high points, at which point it will look pretty crappy esp if there's a colour difference.

I'd reconsider taking the kiwigrip back.. you'll regret it the first time you take an inadvertent swim or slip and jam your toe on a genoa block and bleed all over your nice new deck.

After all this effort why not do it 'right'?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I'm painting with Perfect Off-White, I dont see how using kiwigrip would work on the non-skid. I dont know if I want to risk conflicting colors.

There's another option i considered to retain some grip. After applying the 2nd coat of Perfection I could shake some Interlux Intergrip over it. Some say to mix it in with the paint but I've been advised against it.

I'm sure I'll retain at least some of the grip on the molded pattern non-skid so I'd look to apply the Intergrip as conservatively as possible. It certainly wouldn't look good loaded on.

I dont know how the colors will conflict but I'm not looking
 

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It's easy.... paint the non-nonskid areas with your perfection... leave the nonskid areas clear, you don't even need to be too careful about the edges.. then once the perfection has cured, mask off the nonskid areas (maybe even improve the pattern to match some added deck gear if that's happened) then apply the Kiwigrip to that. KG can be tinted at Benjamin Moore stores to whatever colour you might need, and in any event a contrasting nonskid can look pretty good - just avoid dark colours or you'll never walk barefoot on deck on a sunny day.

Sprinkling Awlgrip Griptex or any other grit is rather difficult to do evenly, and unlike a topside paint job, when you mess up a deck job you're looking at it every time you go sailing.

Another, perhaps more palatable to you, option would be to do as above but use Interdeck instead of Kiwigrip. It provides a nice high traction surface, rolls out nicely/uniformly but 'grabs' dirt like nothing else and is hard to keep clean.
 

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Add a flattening agent to the deck paint you are using to paint the non skid areas.


Sent from my iPhone using Sausage-like fingers
 

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i dont believe i have ever regretted anything more in my life than white perfection

You are using Interlux Epoxy Primekote for Polyurethane Marine Paint ? and it needs to be used 100% under all the Perfection

FWIW Perfection requires a whole lot of Perfection on your part and the weathers to work remotely correct






Even with the great looking final job










you do want to go sailing this year as the topsides is a whole lot more work than your thinking ?
 

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It's easy.... paint the non-nonskid areas with your perfection... leave the nonskid areas clear, you don't even need to be too careful about the edges.. then once the perfection has cured, mask off the nonskid areas (maybe even improve the pattern to match some added deck gear if that's happened) then apply the Kiwigrip to that. KG can be tinted at Benjamin Moore stores to whatever colour you might need, and in any event a contrasting nonskid can look pretty good - just avoid dark colours or you'll never walk barefoot on deck on a sunny day.

Sprinkling Awlgrip Griptex or any other grit is rather difficult to do evenly, and unlike a topside paint job, when you mess up a deck job you're looking at it every time you go sailing.

Another, perhaps more palatable to you, option would be to do as above but use Interdeck instead of Kiwigrip. It provides a nice high traction surface, rolls out nicely/uniformly but 'grabs' dirt like nothing else and is hard to keep clean.
Yep interdeck traps dirty like crazy. The only thing that got it out for me was a pressure washer. But I'm going over it with kiwi-grip this year because that's not realistic.


This year is a test for me as I'm addressing some deck paint issues on a 7+ year old brightside job. The brightside hasn't held up that well but on the other hand it's easy to touch up. The test will be how well the touchups hold-up and blend in.

If I know I can keep the decks perpetually "ok" with some periodic touchups then 1-part brightside starts seeming less bad.


I'm also doing a peicemeal kiwi-grip upgrade on the non-skid because I just don't have the time to do everything. I'm sticking with white Kiwi-grip along side a white deck because I think matched colors will make future maintenance easier.
 
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