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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I was woken up the other night by a drip on my face... never a good thing... The first bit of good rain in Seattle hit, and I found out that one of holes for a fairlead up on deck that is through bolted failed, hence the drip...

Now I think Main Sails's work on the topic is AWESOME! I'm looking forward to sealing up the deck so this wont be a problem again... but... I have a question about the best way to go about it...

The problem that I see is that the interior of my boat has a "pan" or "liner" that does not give me direct access to the deck. This means that I cannot put a piece of tape on the back of the holes before I fill it with epoxy.

Now what I'm thinking is using a wooden dowel cover in plastic, pushed through the liner and wedged in the bottom of the deck. I don't think this is a perfect solution, and I'm sure a little bit of epoxy mail drip out (it will be thickened so that should help)... but I guess I'm just wondering if anybody has hit this before, and if anybody has any better ideas?

Also, if I do use a dowel.. is plastic ok to use? should I cote it with something so that it will release form the epoxy?

Thanks!
 

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how much space between the liner and the hull? if its an inch or more there are tricks like a folded piece of cardboard with a string. inserted into the hole then it unfolds and you pull up on the string to hold it in place.

go to home depot and look at the time life book on drywall, some useful tricks in there that might work. believe it or not
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good suggestions so far! Thanks!

There is probably less then an inch... so I'm not sure if the cardboard would work. Also the hole is only 1//4 inch I think so I'm not sure I'd be able to get it stuffed down the hole in the first place.

I had thought about foam, and it's possible... I'd want to use minimal expanding foam to be sure. I've seen a guy use the regular expanding stuff on his house and break a stud... That's why I was trying to think of a less invasive and possibly destructive method....

Any other thoughts?
 

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I have used a liquid gasket from auto parts store for resetting stanchions. Clean all mating surfaces really well, use more liquid gasket than you need and trim off the excess with a razor blade next day after fully set. If you need to move or reset the component later, just shear off the gasket material and redo.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I'm going to go the dowel route and see if I have any success. Foam makes me nervous as well. Good to know about teflon... I think I'm going to get a wood dowl, wrapp a plastic bag over the top (spray it with some teflon just in case) and see if I can get a tight enough seal. With thickened epoxy I'm thinking it should work ok. Hoping to take advantage of the sunny and warm weather this week, so I'll let you know how it goes in the next couple days!

Ulladh,
It's funny that you mentioned the liquid gasket. That's what it looks like the PO did when he bedded this hardware and it seems to have failed... Though it lasted almost 2 years (at least since I have no idea when he rebedded this hardware). I like Main Sail's approach because it protects the core even if the seal around the hardware is compromised.
 
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