Hmm ... let's discuss this a bit more. I am still trying to get my head wrapped around the conflicting strong opinions on this issue, after years of dealing with my boats' wires.Adhesive lined heat shrink will NOT adhere to silicone dielectric grease! ... I have often seen folks put dielectric compounds in the crimped connection itself.:hammer Wrong! This will and can severely reduce the electrical quality of the crimped connection and can actually lead to resistance.
What are the opinions you disagree with?Hmm ... let's discuss this a bit more. I am still trying to get my head wrapped around the conflicting strong opinions on this issue, after years of dealing with my boats' wires.
Careful or not with the proper crimp tool and a quality adhesive lined heat shrink connector there is no need for it..1. I agree that the grease can defeat the adhesive during shrinkwrapping, if the operator is not careful doing the procedure.
No, no, no!! Yes, I have strong opinions on this because a dielectric grease should never be put in between the wire and the terminal as it is intended to BLOCK conductivity NOT enhance it!!! Why not just strip the wire then wrap it with electrical tape then make the crimp over the tape??But consider this: If the operator carefully puts a bit of grease only on the bare metal wires inside the crimp,
A proper adhesive lined heat shrink terminal covers the end of the wire! As I said use the right crimp tool and quality adhesive lined heat shrink terminals and there is no need for dielectric grease.then that portion of the adhesive-lined shrinkwrap away from the grease around the wire leading up to the crimp will stick fine to the wire, sealing out moisture from wicking up at that end. The adhesive might also stick over the crimp itself, but if some grease contaminates the surface of the crimp, then the grease could (in theory) do the job of keeping moisture out, while the grease around the wire ends inside the crimp protects those wire ends in a way the adhesive cannot, especially for terminals crimped on the end of a wire, as in at the ignition panel. If the joint is a crimp between two wires, and the operator keeps the grease off the wires leading up to the bare ends, then the adhesive will stick to the wires at both ends, keeping moisture out of the joint, but if any moisture does get in, then the grease is there as a second line of defence.
This is good information. A proper crimped connection does NOT include a dielectric grease..2. On another forum here, I asked about the best way to use dielectric grease. The reply I get to this question, consistently, is that a solid metal-metal connection (as in crimping or a tight bolt/thread fit) excludes the grease so that the grease does not increase resistance in the joint significantly.
I'm still forming an opinion about mixing dielectric and crimping, and getting opposite views from my betters. Your detailed reply and images are clarifying issues nicely for me.What are the opinions you disagree with?
On another forum here, I asked about the best way to use dielectric grease. The reply I get to this question, consistently, is that a solid metal-metal connection (as in crimping or a tight bolt/thread fit) excludes the grease so that the grease does not increase resistance in the joint significantly.
I did not word myself clearly: I am being told that if I add dielectric grease to a joint of any kind, then during crimping or bolting the grease will be pushed out of the joint and onto the surrounding surfaces, leaving so little grease behind that any resistance it creates would be negligible. I presume your argument is that when proper crimp is done that squishes the wires into a solid mass in the crimp when dielectric grease is used, then it contaminates the joint sufficiently to increase resistance in that joint? I have no opinion on this, just trying to understand the best way to use dielectric grease. Thanks for working this through in such detail.This is good information. A proper crimped connection does NOT include a dielectric grease..
Maine Sail: What do you recommend for a "non-cheap" crimper for, say 16 to 10 gauge connections????With a cheap crimper you may not get a true cold formed crimp. As you can see here the wire strands are still exposed and have not become one solid mass of copper.
Now, having been a aircraft electrical inspector and think I can answer your question.Maine Sail: What do you recommend for a "non-cheap" crimper for, say 16 to 10 gauge connections????