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I used that fiberglass wrap that looks like 2" webbing and did 3 layers...down and back and down again.
Then tied in place with two pieces of SS wire wrapped in alternate directions then twisted around each other then wrapped again then on and on, this helps to keep it tight.
Where rubber gloves this stuff is FG and itches the same.
I am considering a final wrap of something else to keep the fibers from sluffing off....which they do at a rapid pace.
 

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R. Furborough
The factory in England where the engine is made did the marinization.

Columbia 34
Even if you have that pipe made in a lighter material you will still need a brace or bracket to support it...the vibration WILL fatigue it at the flange where it bolts to the engine.

Valiente
Thanks for the complement.
That loop is the highest point in my system...it drops down into the water lock/lift then goes under the sole and has another loop (the S shaped one in the pictures) about 8 inches lower than the dry stack, then slopes down/back out to the skin fitting.
I did it like that so no matter what happens the water will always drain back out...even if I crank the engine excessively, I cant flood it…..I think!
I also tried to isolate all the exhaust system from the boat with rubber mounts…I’ve heard this can help with the noise.
 

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Thanks again.
Agreed...seems conventional designs really jeopardize the most valuable piece of safety equipment on the boat.
I was very disappointed at what I found the industry sees as adequate.
 

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The only problem I have with the second diagram is why is the injection loop lower than the second loop.

That seems to be the fundamental flaw with this style system.

This is the set up I have except the second loop is 25cm lower than the first and the first is about 3ft above the water line.
 
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