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I am a sucker for free to almost free boats, so when I saw this little Dyer Dhow Midget online I had to have it. I don't know the age of the boat, but I understand they have been in production in fibreglass maybe as far back as the 40's. Bronze fittings and wood rig which appears to match the mast partner seem to indicate this could be a fairly old boat, or it's possible the sprit rig was a retrofit.

I think the boat is almost complete except for gunwales. Most wood parts including thwarts, partners, knees, dagger board, rudder, tiller and oars are present and in not too bad shape.

Also present are most bronze fittings, the rig and a pretty nice 50 square foot dacron sprit sail.

I guess I will start with the gunwales, maybe spruce, which should cost me a few dollars. Then thwarts and finally hardware. We will see how it goes.

The Dyer Dhow Midget is extremely light for car topping. Internet says 70-83 pounds, but that must be fitted out because the bare hull, transom and dagger board trunk feel like maybe about 40 pounds.

I guess I will use the boat for car topping to the beach so people can take turns sailing from the beach.

Boat has a listed payload of 465 pounds and are supposedly quite capable, so I will also set her up for solo camp cruising for the occasional week ends I am on my own. No sense in launching our 21 ft boat for one person when an 8 footer will do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't know if I needed a project, but I definitely needed the sitka rig and sprit sail :D
 

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We acquired a Dyer Dhow about 40 years ago after it had been retired from Mystic Seaport’s sailing program. It had seen some wear and tear and we brought it up to The Anchorage, where it was born, in Warren, RI. We had the oak rub rail replace and some other repairs done and also bought a kick-up rudder to replace the fixed rudder that came with it. (That makes it a lot easier to launch from a beach!)

In any case, The Anchorage (57 Miller St., Warren, RI, 02885, (401)245-3300, [email protected]) is the go-to place for parts and advice on structural repairs/upgrades (like adding a second bronze knee at the mid ships thwart seat.). I have dealt with Tad at The Anchorage and recommend him as a contact.

The longevity of the Dyer dinghies is legendary. Mine is probably over 50 years old and looks like it can go another 50.
 

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I don't know. It's a pretty extreme bend isn't it? Not sure I want to get into building a steam box either.

I am researching my options. I am wondering if Vynil canoe gunwales might be the way to go. More expensive than wood, but so much easier to work with.
 

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First boat I ever sailed. I think I was 8 or 9 years old. Good memories.

I’d love to have one as a sailing dinghy, but I don’t think I bend well enough to fit anymore. Enjoy the project.
 

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Exactly Minnewaska, it's as much for the kids as for me. I am thinking they can take it out from the local beach, which is just on a widening of the river. Sail it back and forth within a few hundred feet of shore, dump it, swim off it. Learning by doing.
 

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You are a very lucky man to have found a DD. One of my favorite small dinks. Lots of fun to sail though every one I've ever seen has been Bermuda rigged.
 
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This is the solution I came up with to avoid the extreme bend in the gunwales at the bow. I made a deck plate. Should also be able to mount a cleat for anchoring if I want too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I cut off cuts from the lumber yard into braces/temporary thwarts to hold the shape of the hull. I then cut the inwale to length. Tapered the aft portion to form a butt joint with the transom and tapered the forward portion of the inwale to form a butt joint with the deck plate. Used my angle grinder for the tapers as it was handy from cutting out the old after thwart tabbing.

I then clamped the inwale and outwale to the hull to ensure a good fit. Then removed all but the two forward most forward clamps.

Drilled pilot holes and counter sinks one at at time and used 1 1 /8 stainless screws with deep counter sinks. Started at the bow and worked aft, one screw at at time spaced at about 4 inches.

As I tightened each screw the gunwales bent a little bit with each tightening until I reached the stern. By the time I reached the stern, the boards had bent to the shape of the boat due to the incremental tightening of each screw.
 

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I cut off cuts from the lumber yard into braces/temporary thwarts to hold the shape of the hull. I then cut the inwale to length. Tapered the aft portion to form a butt joint with the transom and tapered the forward portion of the inwale to form a butt joint with the deck plate. Used my angle grinder for the tapers as it was handy from cutting out the old after thwart tabbing.

I then clamped the inwale and outwale to the hull to ensure a good fit. Then removed all but the two forward most forward clamps.

Drilled pilot holes and counter sinks one at at time and used 1 1 /8 stainless screws with deep counter sinks. Started at the bow and worked aft, one screw at at time spaced at about 4 inches.

As I tightened each screw the gunwales bent a little bit with each tightening until I reached the stern. By the time I reached the stern, the boards had bent to the shape of the boat due to the incremental tightening of each screw.
Very cool!
 

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I don't know. It's a pretty extreme bend isn't it? Not sure I want to get into building a steam box either.

I am researching my options. I am wondering if Vynil canoe gunwales might be the way to go. More expensive than wood, but so much easier to work with.
Mystic Seaport uses a plastic (vinyl?) instead of the original oak. The oak is used to sandwich the fiberglas and is held in place by copper rivets. While oaks is obviously stronger, the PVC (or whatever) is more practical for a beginers’ sailing program.

If you really want to know what experience teaches, check with Tad at the Anchorage. He’s the guy that services the Mystic Seaport fleet when their local folks need help. He’ll know what to advise.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am reasonably happy with my gunwales for now. My next task I am working on is positioning the rig, installing the partner and step.

Some one mentioned they had never seen a sprit on a DD before. I have concluded that they are probably right. Pretty sure this rig is not original to the boat. The sail area is pretty big, boom is going to overhang the transom. Should be fast if I can keep her on her feet. If not, I have a smaller rig I can use on the boat, but this one is going to be fun to try and is going to look great once installed.

Here is the rig semi standing in my temporary partner.
 

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I am reasonably happy with my gunwales for now. My next task I am working on is positioning the rig, installing the partner and step.

Some one mentioned they had never seen a sprit on a DD before. I have concluded that they are probably right. Pretty sure this rig is not original to the boat. The sail area is pretty big, boom is going to overhang the transom. Should be fast if I can keep her on her feet. If not, I have a smaller rig I can use on the boat, but this one is going to be fun to try and is going to look great once installed.

Here is the rig semi standing in my temporary partner.
You can see how the Dyer Midget is laid out in the photo at http://dyerboats.com--the Midget being the one in the water in the foreground. The 9' Dyer Dhow is on the dock. You can see the Midget specs, including sail plan, at https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/dyer-midget-hi-sheer
 
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