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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 1984 used Harken furler, series 1, very cheap. The lower bearings are stiff, but I figured I could dismantle the unit and refurbish it. I easily took the outer bearing off the lower swivel after removing the circlip, and was surprised to see the ball bearings appear to be nylon, or plastic or something similar.
But I’m completely baffled as to how to get at the inner bearing races. There doesn’t appear to be any retaining clips, only two little oil holes in the one piece housing.
Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Have you tried contacting Harken?

btw the ball bearings are 'Delrin', I believe.
 

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If it's the same furler I think it is, those two oiling holes have an allen screws inside. Try poking around with an allen key and see if you feel something.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Dog Ship,
You were almost right, but what you said prompted me to remove the two little plastic plugs, by screwing a self tapper into them and pulling with a claw hammer. There is no allan key, only a hole giving access to the ball bearings, (which are either Delrin or Torlon—some sort of plastic material).
I will give a little background for those who might be interested:
This furler is for my foremast staysail, (Brigantine schooner), and I wanted to utilize a long turnbuckle top stud—which cost an arm and a leg—to carry the gooseneck of the staysail boom. The thread sizes were different and left handed, between the Harken shaft, and the turnbuckle stud, and I couldn’t turn that on my lathe, so I turned the stud down to fit snug into the shaft and welded it to the shaft. I immediately knew something was wrong when the bearings started to smoke, but I didn’t for one moment think they would be made of plastic!!
Anyway, they melted themselves to the shaft, hence the stiffness in rotating.
This was last Friday night, and there is absolutely nothing on Harken’s site or anywhere else I could find on the web which explained how the inner shaft was fitted inside the one piece outer housing.
I removed the two ½” diameter “oiling plugs” which turned out not to be oiling plugs at all, but holes just big enough to pop the bearings in and out of their sockets.
These two pieces can be seen on the photo, including the “garden pea” bearings, 12 balls to each bearing.
The uppermost ring of bearings dropped out of the hole easily enough, but not the lower balls, which were fused to their grooves. These had to be individually drilled and waggled out of the hole, which took a total of three hours for twelve balls.
Then the last of these was out, the inner shaft came out of the outer housing to reveal all.
I damaged the inner bearing surface with the drilling, but nothing which can’t be cleaned up with my needle files.
So this is where we stand, and tomorrow I phone Harken to find out why the fitted plastic bearings on a headsail furler, instead of stainless balls, which I will probably use as replacements.
So I guess the moral is: “you live and learn” and that’s why I’ve taken the trouble to write this, to hopefully save someone else making the same mistakes.
 

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I have a small side question and problem with a furler on a 1984 C&C 33 Mk11. The genoa, when raised, pulls the furler up, off the deck.
Do you see in the assembly, a part that is designed to hold the furler down, on the Harken? The circlip?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry Sony2000, I don't know enough about these units to advise on that. I'm just trying to put my unit together again properly, so I can forget it and move on to the next item on my never ending list.
 

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I have a small side question and problem with a furler on a 1984 C&C 33 Mk11. The genoa, when raised, pulls the furler up, off the deck.
Do you see in the assembly, a part that is designed to hold the furler down, on the Harken? The circlip?
Try this link: (slow to load.. be patient.. I think you need pg 13-14-15 or so)

Harken Mark1 Owners Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Faster, I also downloaded the manual which I couldn't find anywhere before. It's quite informative, but it still doesn't tell you how to actually remove and replace the balls.
By the way, they cost a dollar each from Harken.
 
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