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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just pulled our C&C 32 out of the water and the fairing around the keel needs to be redone.
I have no idea what to use for this.
It won't take much, for the most part it will just make the joint more smooth so it is less prone to growth. The worst of the alignment is about 3/16 of an inch where as the rest is fairly close. So close it would be ok to just repaint it and it would be fine.
There seems to be a lot of products out there for this, but what have people had the best result with?
 

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I use this stuff: System Three Quick Fair Fairing Compound

It is epoxy based, a must have for the task...


+ + + Works great, not too hard to sand down

+ + + End result is smooth, holds paint well, waterproof



- - - Cant mix it 1:1 - i use a gram scale, calculator, mix on wax paper

- - - Sets up too fast when used n the summer temperatures


I get it online... Buy enough, there will be some waste in your project..

Hope this helps, Bruce
 

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Interlux watertite (also an epoxy)...
I'll tell you the working temp should be above say 60ish... it'll dry quicker... the conditions I used it in, were 60s for application, and 30s for drying... it took days to dry! Totally my fault.

Watertite Boat Filler | Interlux

Here's a shot of it "in use."


The result...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll be doing this outside in 30-40 degree weather with high humidity. More than likely raining. It will have to be a two part compound for stability.
Nice work SHNOOL, are you busy next week. Haha
 

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Doing this kind of work around here this time of year, I'd definitely put up a plastic hoarding (likely required by the yard in any event) and put a heater in it... very few epoxies are likely to cure properly at those temps.

We had good luck with West's G-flex resin and fillers - not so much as a generally fairing compound but specifically in the hull/keel joint area. We did have some difficulty finding it in Canada, (WM claimed to be unable to import it, but Steveston had some in stock)
 

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I use whatever epoxy I have with a low density filler. WestSystems works fine as do others. The trick is the LOW density. I once grabbed the wrong can and mixed in structural filler... Took a hammer and chisel to get some of that stuff off.
 

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Doing this kind of work around here this time of year, I'd definitely put up a plastic hoarding (likely required by the yard in any event) and put a heater in it... very few epoxies are likely to cure properly at those temps.

We had good luck with West's G-flex resin and fillers - not so much as a generally fairing compound but specifically in the hull/keel joint area. We did have some difficulty finding it in Canada, (WM claimed to be unable to import it, but Steveston had some in stock)
Remember, the keel needs to be warm' not the air. You will need to heat over night, before and after working.
 

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Interlux watertite (also an epoxy)..
Yikes, not Watertite for fairing. The Watertite is great for filling divots and holes, but not for fairing, if you know that the term means. That Watertite must have been a bear to sand down...I use an epoxy/microballoon mix, sands nicely, cover with a final coat or two of epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm just heading out to the boat yard right now.
I'll take all this info and pass it by "the guy".
I really don't like dealing with WM but G-Flex seems to be the stuff for this application. There are no divots or holes that need filling it's just going to be a very thin filet along the hull to keel joint.
The yard is doing all the prep work so I am not required to tent the hull to fill and paint. I do need to lay down a tarp to catch any spills but they have done the dirty work already.
I'll let you know what they think about this. They have been doing this for a long time and may have further insight as to what to use.
Thanks so far everybody. I'll keep you posted.
 

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.....
I really don't like dealing with WM but G-Flex seems to be the stuff for this application. There are no divots or holes that need filling it's just going to be a very thin filet along the hull to keel joint.
......
West Systems G Flex is not 'affiliated' with West Marine... and in any case WM in Vancouver couldn't/wouldn't stock G flex.. I found it at Steveston Marine after WM said they weren't allowed to import it????

So unlikely you'll find it at WM anyway..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I picked up some G-Flex resin at Industrial Plastics and Paint. I also picked up 4 litre's of low density filler to stretch it out a bit and make it easier to work with.
It will kick off so long as it is not freezing outside. At 5c it will take 4 times longer to set than at 15c, it's minimum required temperature. It is unaffected by moisture or the humidity.
Ideally I should build a tent and put a heater in it but really, that would be a lot of work and being right beside the ocean and in the wind I can't see a big gain in temperature by doing that. I have some time.
The local racing season doesn't start until January 6th.
Thanks for all the idea's and Merry Christmas everyone.
 

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Sanding watertight wasn't bad, no worse than anything else I had to sand.

If I had to do any heavy fairing I'd have used microballoons as well...
 

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On the advice of an old boatyard owner, I use talc as a thickener for epoxy to make fairing goop. Balloons makes nice sanding but it stays so runny that it's hard to work overhead or vertically.

Talc/epoxy can be thickened as stiff as you need and it sands better than anything I've ever used. I find there's no need to worry about the talc being hygroscopic as there is so much resin in the mix plus the top coats that any theoretical absorbency isn't a factor.

It's dirt cheap too if you get it from an industrial supplier. I paid $20 for a cement bag of the stuff 10 years ago - I still have lots. :D
 
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Sloop THAT'S a good alternative to balloons!

By the way that gray was interprotect 2000e on mine so I did barrier after as well, to make sure the boat bottom is sealed.
 

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You can make balloons as thick as you want, just add more to the mix.

Talc works fine, It is just not recommended for use below the waterline.
 

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I found I couldn't add enough balloons to stop it slumping. I finally resorted to adding some cabosil just to stiffen it.

I admit to some initial concerns about the talc underwater but the old boatyard owner who told me about it had a lifetime of building & working on boats so I tried it.

Never had a problem.
 

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To each their own, but even the talc manufacturers won't recommend it for use below the waterline (on wet sailed boats at least).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I managed to get the keel faired today.
We are having some pretty nice weather here when you consider it's December 24. It was 9C down at the boat.
I bought some G-Flex and some Pro-fil filler. Wasn't to sure how much filler to put in the brew but I did get it pretty stiff, kind of like thick icing. Although, given the temperature it did start to sag a bit before it kicked off. I managed to keep it under control but it will need some sanding and another application.
So far so good.
 

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Microspheres and cab-o-sil in about a 2:1 ratio with your favorite epoxy. The cab-o-sil (fumed silica) is the thickener and makes the epoxy very hard (nearly as hard as neat epoxy) if used alone. The microspheres make it sandable but makes the epoxy weak in too large a ratio. For large fairing jobs you can increase the spheres to ease sanding.

I used this method to fair a very bumpy Cal 25, my San Juan 34 after a complete blister peel and several other smaller projects.

I've used West's 407 and 410 fillers with good results on small projects but they are very pricey.

I buy my fairing supplies from Aero-Marine for less than I can at WM even with my Port Supply discount.
 
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