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Chastened
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4,861 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seeking the name of a GOOD, trustworthy, fiberglass repairman in the Annapolis area, for a hull repair.
 

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Tartan 27' owner
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5,241 Posts
FRP is not his main work but he is good, dependable and a retired sociology professor: Will Sibley (in Shadyside - he's in the phone book).
His main work (in retirement) is on Atomic 4's & basic diesel maintenance.
If he is not free or able I'd ask him for a name of a reliable local trades person.
He helps my friend in Annapolis with an Endeavor 32' and his Universal diesel.
 

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Senior Smart Aleck
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2,152 Posts
Why don't you do the work yourself?

Don Casey covers the subject well in his "Good Old Boat" book.

The problem with paying someone to work on your sailboat is both the cost and quality. There are not that many craftsmen out there and they seem to charge exorbitant prices, which the market will bear. The work is not that difficult and you will probably do a better job, as your life is the one at risk when you sail. It would be a good learning experience for you.

If you screw up, donate the boat, or piece it out, and start over again....
 

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Chastened
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4,861 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why don't you do the work yourself?

Don Casey covers the subject well in his "Good Old Boat" book.

The problem with paying someone to work on your sailboat is both the cost and quality. There are not that many craftsmen out there and they seem to charge exorbitant prices, which the market will bear. The work is not that difficult and you will probably do a better job, as your life is the one at risk when you sail. It would be a good learning experience for you.

If you screw up, donate the boat, or piece it out, and start over again....
Sorry James, that last line is absolutely unacceptable.
I do 99% of my own work, but I know my limitations. I'm willing to pay a significant price to get this done once, and properly.
 

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Chastened
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4,861 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have to ask. BH, what kind of repair or damage is there?
I have a dead transducer, under the v-berth, penetrating the hull directly on the "V" of the hull. The PO used JB Weld or Qwiksteel to bed and seal it, instead of a proper marine bedding material. Now, it is slowly leaking. I am not confident in my ability to recreate the shape of the hull.

If this were on a flat area of the hull, I'd jump right on it.
 

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One of None
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8,040 Posts
Is your boat on the hard now? Not trying to tell you to forge ahead and do it, but I think you can. with epoxy and fairing compounds it's not that difficult.. getting the area around it to dry would be the most difficult part imho. heat lamp! Many TDs come with a plastic block so they can be cut/ground to make the TD read strait down instead of an angle.. probably something the PO didn't know.
 

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Tartan 27' owner
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5,241 Posts
Will Sibley was the guy my friends were going to use for the blisters on the hull of their E32'. They eventually decided to put off that project for another year(s).

As for replicating the shape of the hull at the "V" you can use sheets of plastic to form a mold for your epoxy repair. Epoxy does not readily adhere to the plastic that is used for gallon milk containers, water containers. You can also use a mold release agent to make your mold easier to disassemble once the epoxy has 'kicked'.
 

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Chastened
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4,861 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've contacted Will Sibley. Discussion is in progress, seems promising. He will let me work alongside, so I can learn.
 

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Tartan 27' owner
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5,241 Posts
Good for you BubbleheadMd.

In some ways Will is a bit like don Moyer; both of them owned A4 powered boats for nearly a lifetime. Along the way he has picked up all kinds of skills and knowledge; including epoxy & rigging work.
He is not particularly cheap but if you want a good job by a dependable worker then he is your man.
I wish I lived close enough to use him myself. I'd have him look over my A4 wiring.
 

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Old enough to know better
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4,346 Posts
Sorry James, that last line is absolutely unacceptable.
I do 99% of my own work, but I know my limitations. I'm willing to pay a significant price to get this done once, and properly.
I agree here, this has been your home at times, so it deserves the best and needs to be safe! I have had mixed results in using resin and fiberglass myself.

Good for you BubbleheadMd.

In some ways Will is a bit like don Moyer; both of them owned A4 powered boats for nearly a lifetime. Along the way he has picked up all kinds of skills and knowledge; including epoxy & rigging work.
He is not particularly cheap but if you want a good job by a dependable worker then he is your man.
I wish I lived close enough to use him myself. I'd have him look over my A4 wiring.
The A4 has wiring? I thought they were made before electricity was discovered! Wasn't Noah's ark powered by an A4? (runs ducking for cover)
 

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Tartan 27' owner
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5,241 Posts
The Atomic 4 has wiring? I thought they were made before electricity was discovered! Wasn't Noah's ark powered by an A4? (runs ducking for cover)
Not far from the truth. Actually, when I got my boat with Atomic 4 ten years ago I knew so little I almost thought the engine ran because of magic. The engine and the Moyer forums have dramatically improved my understanding of this simple engine though.
Since then I have:
- replaced the water pump (twice; once as an upgrade to a pump without a grease cap)
- replaced the shaft, shaft log hose & cutless bearing
- popped off the head for a gasket replacement
- drained & cleaned gas tank

Because of the wrenching skills I had developed I was able to replace the power steering pump on my Honda Accord when the bearings failed a few years ago. Brought the screeching car to my local mechanic who inspected it. He said: "You can do this yourself. Remove these 2 bolts, order a replacement pump & belt from the auto parts store." I did all of this but I had to buy a Metric ratchet wrench set to do so.

Still, I would not attempt to install a new clutch in my car. Some things are best left to the pros (if you can find them).
 
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