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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a continuation of my previous post, "failed sea hood". I followed Sailingdog's suggestions and epoxied two layers of 4 mil Marine ply to the top of the sea hood. I Added a fillet and two layers of glass on the bottom of the hood and new top. Now, I need to finish the top. Should I glass (with micro balloons) over the new top and outside of the sea hood? Should I fair the hood to top gap with thickened epoxy or Bondo? I was even thinking about placing the old top (bottom two pictures) on top to stiffen it (probably does't need it) and use the non skid pattern. Thoughts?
 

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This is a continuation of my previous post, "failed sea hood". I followed Sailingdog's suggestions and epoxied two layers of 4 mil Marine ply to the top of the sea hood. I Added a fillet and two layers of glass on the bottom of the hood and new top. Now, I need to finish the top. Should I glass (with micro balloons) over the new top and outside of the sea hood?
:D Glad to help.

Yes, that would be a good way to finish it up and add considerable strength to the repair.

Should I fair the hood to top gap with thickened epoxy or Bondo?
Just use thickened epoxy and do it as part of the glassing new top to the exterior of the old sea hood. :)

I was even thinking about placing the old top (bottom two pictures) on top to stiffen it (probably does't need it) and use the non skid pattern. Thoughts?
I think going with a good non-skid paint, like Interdeck would make more sense. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:D Glad to help.
Just use thickened epoxy and do it as part of the glassing new top to the exterior of the old sea hood. :)
:)[/QUOTE
I'm still not clear on how to complete the finish surface (and have yet to find reference material that deals with a similar situation, including West's how to guide). So, I fair the hood/Plywood joint with thickened epoxy. Then, I put cloth and epoxy over the whole repair, or just epoxy with micro balloons?
 

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I would fair the join with thickened epoxy and then put a layer of cloth or two over the whole repair and then fair the cloth with thickened epoxy. If you don't fair with thickened epoxy, the cloth pattern will print through the paint or gelcoat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Done!

Completed the repair, and I have to say, I surprised myself! Put 2 layers cloth underneath and determined it wasn't quite strong enough to stand on (I'm a big guy). Added a layer of roving that that did it. Used Bondo and fairing compound to make the transition from the exterior sides to the new top. Laid a layer of Epoxy (no cloth or filler over the entire top. Primed and painted it, embedding a layer of sand for non skid. I also built up the bottom where the builder had used a 1/4" of teak to raise it up (thereby eliminating the teak, which never made sense to me). Looks professional IMO, which is more than I expected for my first glass job that required a finish.:) Thanks to Sailingdog who inspired me to give it a try!
 

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Post a photo when you get a chance... glad to help. :)
 

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Nicely done... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
from the pics with the wood, to finished i am impressed. i did not think it would turn out that well, good job
Thanks. Yeah...I was certainly having my doubts! BTW, one lesson learned was that Tap Plastics sells any type of cloth or roving (including carbon fiber) you could need for about an eighth of what West Marine does. Sadly, their epoxy costs about the same. Maybe it's only news to me, but I thought it was worth sharing.
 
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