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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

from Wakatobi, Indonesia.

We have been sailing upwind again and our hull and deck leaks are getting worse on our 1981 37.

Has anyone had this problem and fixed theirs up?

I am tossing up between trying sealant in the visible gaps, filling with epoxy filler, or ideally taking up the timber toe-rails and glassing over. (Major work will have to wait a few months.)

Thanks,
John
s/v Libby
 

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Got some photos?
Our experts might need plenty of information to help you better 馃槉
 

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If hull flex is working the joint you'll probably want a pliable sealant as a temporary fix. Epoxy would probably just separate.

Pics would help.
 

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A rigid adhesive like epoxy is wrong for that joint unless it will be thoroughly glassed over.

Otherwise something flexible is correct. Currently builders use something called Plexus - apparently it bonds & seals without fasteners.
 

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I have leaks where the screws in a repaired area of the caprail passed completely through the hull-to-deck joint (which they should not have) and produced leaks. I have plastered 5200 over the screws from inside the hull as a temporary repair.

Bill Murdoch
1988 PSC 34
Irish Eyes
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone,

Photo doesn't show much - just a crack with old sealant flaking out of it.
If you look at Bill's diagram the water is coming in between the deck flange and the hull.

I'll try caulking with sealant now, and then I'll consider pulling off the cap-rails, re-sealing all the fasteners and fittings and glassing over permanently in Thailand or Malaysia where getting work done is affordable.

Thanks for the advice not to epoxy fill it.

Cheers,
John
 

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I'd use wooden wedges to open the seam a little so the goo can be squeezed in.
 
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If fasteners are leaking, the only real fix is to pull and rebed them. That will probably involve removing the cap rail. Typical hull to deck fastening is bolts through the caprail on 1' or so intervals with 2 or more countersunk self tapping/sheet metal screws in between the through bolts that the cap rail covers. Really like butyl for sealing the fasteners.

Putting caulk along cracks never lasts for long.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone, we've just been on passage and are now in Komodo.

The big experiment on this downwind passage was to run up our spare Yankee as a twin in the other furler track. Worked a treat on anything over 12knots.

We are definitely planning to pull the cap rails up and do this properly in Thailand.

Cheers,
John
 

s/v Pelagic
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Our 1980 C37 also had some leaks forward. We took the overhead panels down and put a hose on all the joints while someone watched inside for leaks. Had to fix the port pulpit base where wire for the bow light penetrates the deck. Also some leaks at the windlass and deck fills. The oddest one was the port hawse hole fitting. There is a gap between the two halves which is sealed with a rubber hose and silicone seal. The hose was cut too small and water shot onto the overhead panel and ran aft soaking things. Also spent time filling/sealing the top gap between the chain locker bulkhead and deck to keep any windlass leaks from running aft on the overhead panels. Didn鈥檛 notice leaks from the hull-to-deck joint.

BTW, we thought our C37 was an 鈥81 until the factory clarified the build date.

John
s/v Pelagic
1980 C37 yawl (#22)
Lake Union, Seattle
 
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