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Are we talking glass or plastic here? Plastic (polycarbonate, acrylic) . . . bend away. Don't heat it, just bend it. It's formulated to be cold formed. Glass, even tempered glass has more give than you think. I tried to find a picture that I've seen with three fat guys standing on the same light of glass. I could only find one fat guy. Either way, the 1/4" tempered that he (Steve) is standing on is bending more that I'm comfortable with. He's about 40' above the concrete floor of a business park in Mass. Different installations.

As far as the mess goes. mask off all the areas that you don't want sealant on. Be sure to follow instructions. They probably say to tool the joint. DON'T skip this step. With silicone and urethane. it isn't warrantied unless it's tooled.

Don
 

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Tooling a joint is a fancy term for running a wet finger over the part that is visible. If the joint is say, 1/4" wide, you need to smooth it out, shape it, to get it to seal against the materials. Sort of like tooling mortar to make it waterproof. Home Repo sells a sealant smoothing spray that works well. And to tool, I usually use a plastic spoon. The radius is more consistent than my index finger. Now, if the sealant is just being squashed between the frame and the cabin, more like a gasket, just clean it off. Be sure to mask off whatever you don't want covered. 2" masking tape works great. You can layer it at corners, cut it with a razor knife to make rounded beads. Be sure to pull it off immediately, before the sealant even THINKS about setting up. And don't wear any Sunday-go-to-meetin' clothes.
 
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