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Discussion Starter #1
Im turning over a Hunter Legend 355. Its original aluminum holding tank (problematic in this boat Im told) was removed and the head was plumbed directly overboard.

If I install a holding tank in its original location, the head will have a run of about 7ft, up hill about 18". Seems to me this is a ridiculous way to do this, as the entire line would need to be flushed every time, with only the joker valve holding back whatever is left in the hose.

So the thought is to install a flexible holding tank in a cavity under the aft berth, but below the head. Everything runs downhill. Understand they are not as rigorous as plastic or fiberglass, but it can be removed, washed out or replaced quite easily..

Am I thinking straight here? Tank size is 14.5 gal, a little small, but this is a flipper, so as long as Im legal, it shouldn't be a problem selling.

Dave aboard Sugar Too
New Bern, NC
 

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I like that location, better than original.. but with that kind of (good) access I'd be tempted to put a proper, rigid tank in that space and up the capacity as much as you can. Even as a 'flipper' I think this would be a good selling point - ie new holding tank (a known issue, as you say) but with usable capacity and a demonstrable improvement over the original setup.

Seeing as the tank and fittings would be almost in a 'living/sleeping' space I think you want the most secure, odor free possibilities at play.
 

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Am I thinking straight here? Tank size is 14.5 gal, a little small, but this is a flipper, so as long as Im legal, it shouldn't be a problem selling.
I considered a flexible holding tank on previous boat, but changed my mind after doing some research. Apparently, the odors can get embedded in the tank material and eventually permeate through causing quite a stink. Being a flipper, I assume cost is one of the factors you're considering and in my research, quality flexible tanks were as much or more than hard plastic tanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the feedback. Still thinking am going the flex route. Will do a little more research first. Anything below the head on this boat has to be relatively shallow, and hard tank just not an option, unless I custom build, or put it in elevated spot.

Dave aboard Sugar Too
New Bern, NC
 

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If you just want to flip the boat, then way are you concerned about to original location of the tank? You will not be using it. And I assume it is ready to go with thru deck fittings and access. I would not modify from the original design, but that's just me.

If the hose rises up 20" (you said 18" up to the tank) at the head then everything in the hose from there past that rise would not be an issue or chance of coming back thru the joker valve.

I think you might want to think about what the buyers surveyor is going to think about the modification? Any surveyors here?
 

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I bought my boat with two flexible holding tanks.

My advice as to the best place to install flexible holding tanks is on someone else's boat.;)

My boat always smelled a little like a sewer and nothing worked while those bags were on board. Took them out and the smell was gone.

YMMV but for me - never again.
 
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Had a flexible holding tank when I bought the boat and it leaked around the gaskets for the input/output lines. Could never get it tight enough not to leak. Put in a plastic tank. Boatyard's comment was, "We replace a lot of these."
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok, I hear ya all.. Flexibles not good.

Tell me how the original design is good: Manual Jabsco (everyone has probably sat on one of these at one time or another). Output of bowl leaves the base through the joker valve into the hose. Hose run is under aft berth, slightly up hill, 6 - 7 ft, through a bulk head, and up 18 - 20" to the inlet of the tank. Unless Im nutz, every flush must clear the hose of all effluent.. at least 1 - 2 gals. If the line isnt cleared, then sh*t sits in the line, only prevented from back filling the bowl by the joker..

Tell me how this is a good design?

Dave aboard Sugar Too
New Bern, NC
 

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Totally 'get' that you want to move the tank closer to the head.. makes sense, and I've seen that the original location has poor access to boot.

Just think you ought to go to the effort of having a rigid tank made for the underbunk area you want to use now..

Best of luck however you go!
 

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For 1.5" hose you need about 11' to hold a gallon.
Maybe you are over thinking this.

It is not ideal to have a gallon of water in the hose but not the end of the world as long as it is good hose and you flush it through once in a while.
 

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ok, I hear ya all.. Flexibles not good.

Tell me how the original design is good: Manual Jabsco (everyone has probably sat on one of these at one time or another). Output of bowl leaves the base through the joker valve into the hose. Hose run is under aft berth, slightly up hill, 6 - 7 ft, through a bulk head, and up 18 - 20" to the inlet of the tank. Unless Im nutz, every flush must clear the hose of all effluent.. at least 1 - 2 gals. If the line isnt cleared, then sh*t sits in the line, only prevented from back filling the bowl by the joker..

Tell me how this is a good design?

Dave aboard Sugar Too
New Bern, NC
don't see the problem, most systems with a manual pump will pump up 4' to the vented loop and then 4' down to the tank and the Sh** is left in the line . that is what the joker valve is for. and the flow is stopped by both the joker and the pump piston inlet base valve from back flowing into the bowl. you are over thinking it. mine has 8' of hose between the head and the tank and they are about 2' apart
 

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From a resale point of view if you put it back the way it was with a new tank the conversation is easy.

Just a bullet point.

Waste tank and hoses replaced with top quality 2013 as per ABYC specifications.

A slam dunk good thing.

If you go "Improving" the design the whole buying process can be side tracked to a discussion of if what you did was an improvement or if you did it wrong.

Right or wrong it is not good for the sales process.

Most experienced buyers take a look at every system on the boat and put a number on the system either plus or minus.
You take the average price of that model boat and add or subtract all those numbers to get a purchase value.

Many potential buyers, myself included probably, would put your new flexible tank in the subtract column.
If that is the case you would obviously be better off not doing it.

Not everyone would make their calculation that way but it is something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, ya'll convinced me.

Think the comment about a flexi tank being a minus is true. I wouldnt want one. This boat was lightly used, virtually no equipment, but very very clean. So I dont need or want any dings.. In addition, a rigid plastic 20 gal tank is about $120, a 18.5 flex is almost $300.

Lastly, on the 7 ft run, 20" dead rise to the top of the holding tank, should I put a p trap close to the head higher than 20" to effectivly hold back the any pressure in the line? Or just make the run straight to the tank? I cant find any advice anywhere accept keep lines and rises to a minimum.

Dave aboard Sugar Too
New Bern, NC
 

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Ok, ya'll convinced me.

Lastly, on the 7 ft run, 20" dead rise to the top of the holding tank, should I put a p trap close to the head higher than 20" to effectivly hold back the any pressure in the line? Or just make the run straight to the tank? I cant find any advice anywhere accept keep lines and rises to a minimum.
I would and did on my boat...run the hose a min of 6" higher than the tank and or higher than the tank when healed. And add a vented loop. Vented loop will let the hose drain down to the tank and not allow back siphoning to the head.

http://shop.sailnet.com/forespar-large-vented-loop-p-28504.html
 

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