Frozen screw in traveler

I'm not sure about which lubricants eat plastics, but I am sure you should be very careful otherwise. I had an old Lewmar traveler that I needed to remove to rebed, and the darn thing was so corroded and old that I basically had to destroy it to remove it. However, that did give me an excuse to purchase a new Harken big boat traveler that I drool over every time I use it.

There is no doubt PB blaster is a master product for this task, but it may eat plastic. Are you sure you couldn't dissolve whatever plastic this is and just replace it easily enough? Harken is by far the best for having parts around for all their old gear.

Use a freezing spray. There are sprays specially made for removing frozen screws. Cooling works as heating does. Since you can not heat it you can cool it down. I do not know any US brands but I am sure you can find one in your country also. If you cannot find it, use ethylcholoride which is a spray for medical use. The difference of temperature when you apply it causes to break the particles betwwen two surfaces.

T9 will work, safe on plastic too

Thanks everyone, I'll try all these ideas. I had not considered that I could just sacrifice the plastic, but i would prefer not to if possible. Hopefully T9 or a freeze spray will do the trick.

Be aware that freezing sprays may be as damaging or worse to the plastic as WD40. Most plastics used in marine environments are not going to be affected by WD40 or Boeshield T9, neither of which is a particularly aggressive solvent.

Hit it with a hammer!

I have a impact screw remover made by Mack Tools that is priceless for this type of problem. You hit the tool with a hammer, and the combination of the impact and ratchet motion of the tool works wonders. Not nearly as destructive as it might sound. In fact, I used it to remove some tiny screws from my furler that someone had neglected to coat with Lanocote before assembly. Don't think I could have done it any other way. I also used it recently when I saw my neighbor prying a set of clutches from his deck with a HUGE pipe wrench! The bolts were frozen, and he was out of patience. My tool removed them without hesitation, and we were able to remove the clutch in a civilized manner! I've had the tool for years, but have used it more since I've had a boat than I ever did before. Very handy!

L124C said:

I have a impact screw remover made by Mack Tools that is priceless for this type of problem. You hit the tool with a hammer, and the combination of the impact and ratchet motion of the tool works wonders. Not nearly as destructive as it might sound. In fact, I used it to remove some tiny screws from my furler that someone had neglected to coat with Lanocote before assembly. Don't think I could have done it any other way. I also used it recently when I saw my neighbor prying a set of clutches from his deck with a HUGE pipe wrench! The bolts were frozen, and he was out of patience. My tool removed them without hesitation, and we were able to remove the clutch in a civilized manner! I've had the tool for years, but have used it more since I've had a boat than I ever did before. Very handy!

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I have used such tools on cars, but I don't think I would want to use it on my fiberglass cockpit!

A well designed impact wrench, especially an electric one, is a very useful tool on a boat.

jarcher said:

I have used such tools on cars, but I don't think I would want to use it on my fiberglass cockpit!

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The T9 did the trick, thanks everyone! I was wrong, what I thought was plastic was aluminum. A very wide, short bolt screwed through the aluminum track car and into a hole in the track to keep it secure at the end. The T9 with a bigger screw driver got it out. No more leaking traveler!

jarcher said:

I have used such tools on cars, but I don't think I would want to use it on my fiberglass cockpit!

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The clutches I mentioned were on the fiberglass coach top. As I indicated, it's not that brutal if you use some finesse. If in doubt, I use a rubber mallet. It's more a function of keeping the tip in contact with the fastner for a split second as it turned about an eighth of a turn. Not easy to do any other way. After that, I can usually back it out by hand. The eletric impacts are very handy as well, and produce a lot of torque for a small tool. However, if the fastner is REALLY frozen, I think the manual works better.

jarcher said:

The T9 did the trick, thanks everyone! I was wrong, what I thought was plastic was aluminum. A very wide, short bolt screwed through the aluminum track car and into a hole int he track to keep it secure at the end. The T9 with a bigger screw driver got it out. No more leaking traveler!

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Use Tef-Gel when it goes back together or at the very least Lanocote..

Maine Sail said:

Use Tef-Gel when it goes back together or at the very least Lanocote..

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I used Sailkote actually, it's what I had.

Interesting about the impact driver. I didn't know they came like the one in your picture. I am used to the kind you put over the fastener then smash with a hammer with all your mite. One more tool to add to the list, thanks!