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Recently took my mast down to re-rig. Inspected the furler (Hood Seafurl 3250- Year 1984) and found the fittings at the top of mast look like attached pic. From the installation instructions, it looks like the foil should cover the swaged shank, with the black plastic clamp clamping around the top of the swaged shank. I have had some problems recently with the furling not rotating smoothly. The bearings were free to turn and nothing looked hung up. But it looks like the foil may catch on the forestay wire as it rotates- due to the incorrect installation.

Can someone confirm this installation is wrong?
Regards
 

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· Once known as Hartley18
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Recently took my mast down to re-rig. Inspected the furler (Hood Seafurl 3250- Year 1984) and found the fittings at the top of mast look like attached pic. From the installation instructions, it looks like the foil should cover the swaged shank, with the black plastic clamp clamping around the top of the swaged shank. I have had some problems recently with the furling not rotating smoothly. The bearings were free to turn and nothing looked hung up. But it looks like the foil may catch on the forestay wire as it rotates- due to the incorrect installation.

Can someone confirm this installation is wrong?
Regards
Yes, it is wrong: The "top clamp" should be clamped to the swaged fitting, not the shroud itself.

It looks like someone hasn't measured the forestay correctly (it's too long). To fix it, you'll need to move the "top clamp" to where it should be, measure the correct length of the forestay (Pages 6&7 of the Manual) and re-do the norseman terminal - but unless you have some spare foil sections your forestay will end up a few inches shorter than it is now.
 

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I've got a hood sea furl 3250 and I'm trying to figure out how to change out the furling line. I don't see a stopper knot on the bottom so how do I take it apart just to replace the line? anyone have an answer? thanks
Welcome to Sailnet, 808rhinochaser. :)

The furling line is threaded through a hole in the drum and tied off with a stopper knot in the end, so it should be pretty easy to replace. You'll need to completely 'unfurl' it first and may have to take the guard off (2 screws) to get at it...
 

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my 3250 does not have that part at all....
It's only there to stop the top foil getting jammed on the wide part of the swage fitting if you push the foils up whilst working on the furling drum or hoisting the sail (and to stop the halyard swivel coming off the end).

Don't worry about it. Doesn't look like any of that can happen in your case anyway.
 

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I am actually going to install a block on the front of my mast because the angle is too low.
Good idea.. The Manual is pretty useless when it comes to working out exactly what the angle should be, but it does suggest instead riveting a strap (bale) on the front of the mast and running the halyard up through that, leaving your turning block where it is.

BTW, I ditched my 3250 a couple of years back for a brand-new Furlex. Much easier to deal with. :)
 

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Last weekend we took on the problem of the foil and furler rising up on the stay. He has lost his black plastic clamp that should be on the swaged shank.
See if the rotation is better with less halyard tension, but I rather believe you need new bearings.
Your system is workable.
 

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A different model Seafurl, but perhaps this post on bearing replacement may help.

Sail Delmarva: Hood Seafurl 800 Bearing Replacement

Sometimes the parts will fuse such that you cannot get the stopper knot through the hole. A clove hitch with a stopper knot on the end of the line works fine.
 

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Last weekend we took on the problem of the foil and furler rising up on the stay. He has lost his black plastic clamp that should be on the swaged shank.
See if the rotation is better with less halyard tension, but I rather believe you need new bearings.
Your system is workable.
I had the same issue last weekend, black plastic clamp impacted on the deck. Next thing the furlerdrum and foils where shifted 10cm upwards..
Is this caused by the fact that the plastic clamp is missing or did perhaps something in the drum broke that should kept the whole thing in it's place.

thanks for any advice and cheers from the Netherlands
 
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