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Farr 11.6 (Farr 38)
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The breeze out here in Boothbay is simply stellar today, and I am feeling the need to get out on the water quickly! Summer is fleeting here . . . but I do also think my stitched-up rudder might not prove up to the job . . .
When I bought my current boat she was in Boothbay Harbour. (She belonged to Byron Borst at the time.) Boothbay is an exceptionally lovely place. I truly loved being there while we were surveying the boat.

If you are seriously jonesing for a sail, you might carry a long oar and some line to lash it to the top of the rudder post. With that you should be able use the oar to steer your way back home should your temporary rudder fail.

If you are capable of fabricating and welding Stainless steel, then it might make sense to weld an entirely new new rudder post assembly including the post itself.

Jeff
 
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If you are seriously jonesing for a sail, you might carry a long oar and some line to lash it to the top of the rudder post. With that you should be able use the oar to steer your way back home should your temporary rudder fail.

If you are capable of fabricating and welding Stainless steel, then it might make sense to weld an entirely new new rudder post assembly including the post itself.

Jeff
Absolutely!

Shortly before my brother and I both put our cruising sailboats up for sail we did a nutso circumnavigatiin of the Western Thousand Islands on my Walker Bay 8. It took us about 3 days in some pretty blustery conditions. We ended up breaking the tiller and both oars with the WB8's extreme weather healm in heavy wind, but we had a stupid amount of fun (enough for both of us to sell our cruising boats).

I haven't sailed the WB8 much in the last few years, but I have connected with some dudes planning an 8' max sail and oar race. This time I have upgraded oars, oar locks and tiller. Locked and loaded :)

Any way, long way of saying, you can steer a small boat pretty well with your oars.
 

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Check the 1 inch PVC going through the transom before doing anything else even if your forgo replacing the rudder and just put an outboard or oar on the built in motor mount. They dropped the rudder on mine losing the tiller head and when we opened up the transom to inspect the tube we found it broken off near the bottom inside. The cheek plates are welded on pretty sturdily on mine so it had to take quite a bit of force to break them off and bend that 1+ inch thick wall stainless steel rudder shaft on yours.

Where the two 1/4" control lines come out the bottom of the rudder shaft one goes straight down in-line with the front of the rudder to lock the rudder in the lowered position while the lift line passes under a stainless steel roller and goes out the back over the top of the rudder for raising it.

I put UHDC (Saw Slick) between the cheek plates and the rudder to allow it to be snugged better while still leaving it free enough to raise and lower with minimal effort.
 

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Who knows what the original dimensions were for the board on the factory outboard motor mount? Mine is very unevenly cut up to a bare minimum and looks like it might have been trimmed down by someone with a very shaky hand in an effort to put a short shaft on it.

If I understand correctly on a sailboat the ventilation/cavitation plate should be 6" below the water line. What have the other Galilee owners here been using... Short, Long or Sail Shaft (25" but I doubt that)?
 

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Hi, new to the forum... long time galilee salior. Glad to see some still out there. I bought my galilee in ‘92 and its served me very well. Years ago i lost the rudder and cut a new one out of oak to replace it. Time to make a new one and i figure id ask for the actual dimentions. Can someone measure their length and width? Or better yet will another rudder come close, such as a lazer’s? Thanks

-Joe
Candlewood Lake, Conn.

Galilee 15
1986
Hull number: GAK15437M86G
Sail number: 437
 

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I'll take a picture of the rudder blade and put some measurements on it for you tomorrow. Mine still has the original hollow rudder blade on it. It is a swept back foil design and not as simple as some may think.

If you could take a picture of the board on the motor mount and add some dimensions including the bolt locations that would be great.

Any idea where the VIN plate is located on the Galilee factory trailer? I have been all over mine and can't locate it. Hopefully its was not on one of the tail light brackets since the yard where they were storing it cut those off long before I bought it.

Mine is an 1983 with a K suffix indicating November and the original sail number would have been 168 (GAK15168M83K). The current sails are from Ansons Sail Loft in Greenland NH and quite well made.
 

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Unfortunatly i have a Cox trailer and not an original galilee one. Here in CT trailers that size arent titled, so if you cant find the VIN the State DMV will issue you one upon inspection and a notiried form.

I replaced my wood block on the motor mount some 15 years ago. I cut a new plate using my old one as a template. Ill measure whats left of it and post a picture with the bolt spacing.

I still have my original sails, jib, main and flasher.
 

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They aren't titled here in Florida either but do require proof of ownership.

The wood block is very small and misshapen like it was reduced in size to put a short shaft on the boat. Your measurements will be appreciated. I will be using a Honda BF2.3DH Long Shaft.

You have the optional Flasher - How does that work out?

On mine Anson went a percentage larger on the main making the boom sit a little lower and played with the foresail dimensions a bit too. Scared the mentor I went out with since he was not expecting the old lady with the wide hips to kick up her heels and get a move on like she did.

The shake down sail was my first time out in over 40 years and the first time out in almost a decade for the Galilee since it was vandalized and the tiller handle lost.

I went with a bit of an overbuilt club for the replacement and have since installed two fairlead jam cleats for the lift and lock down lines:


Found a pic showing the new tiller head with the light bar installed so I can use magnetic towing light for the trailer due to the epoxy painted steel plates on each end of the boom and mast support:
 

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The tiller looks great. I need to also re do mine. What type of wood is it made off?

I’ll measure the motor mount board this afternoon.

The flasher works well in lighter steady winds, though I haven’t used it in a while. She’s been sitting on a trailer for the past 10 Year’s or so. Needs new halyards, tiller, rudder and block for the motor mount. It’s a great boat, I learned how to sail with it in the ‘90s.... kicked her over a few times.
 

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The tiller is made from some scrap walnut and oak that I had in the workshop along with some aluminum angle that I gas welded together then epoxy painted, a stainless steel 1" safety rail stanchion and two downturn fairlead cleats.

I'll be heading outside in a few to finish up my launch extension for the trailer and will take some measurements and a close up photo or two of the original rudder.
 

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The rudder is a full inch thick and measures about 32" long from top to bottom.

The bottom edge runs parallel to the water line and the leading and trailing edges sweep back from top to bottom at a 15 degree angle and are 8 3/4" apart.

The top front edge where there raise line attaches is 28 7/8" from the bottom and the back top edge is about 30 7/8" from the bottom.

The pivot bolt hole is 28 3/4" from the bottom and 4 3/4" from the leading edge.



 

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The board on the motor mount is 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 1 1/2. The philips head bolts are 2 1/2 spaced evenly from each other on the lower half of the mount. The wood mount is pretty shot. I’ll be cutting a new one tomorrow. The grain needs to run up and down, and don’t forget a dummy cord from the mount arm to the motor.
 

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I think that run around 24 to 30 inches, not sure the thickness.
The standard Laser rudder is a tad over $200 and looks like the top could be modified to work with the Galilee.

Laser Rudder:


Here are a few others for comparison for shape and top design. Would be nice if they included dimensions.
Sunfish Rudder:


V15 Rudder:


C420 Rudder:


FJ Rudder:


Taser:


Triak (MK2):
 

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The board on the motor mount is 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 1 1/2. The philips head bolts are 2 1/2 spaced evenly from each other on the lower half of the mount. The wood mount is pretty shot. I'll be cutting a new one tomorrow. The grain needs to run up and down, and don't forget a dummy cord from the mount arm to the motor.
Viva La Differance'

It appears the early versions had the bolt pattern spread higher up. To me it looked like they could interfere with some motor clamps with the nuts and threads sticking out in that area.






Will you be using Yellow Pine or something else?
 

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The Taser rudder looks closest though without dimensions tough to tell. The last rudder I made was out of oak. 32 inches tall and roughly 7 wide. I’ll post a picture tomorrow... like the motor mount and tiller it too is in rough shape.
 

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Odd how the earlier mount had bolts spaced higher, I’d assume they were repositioned lower to better accommodate the engine clamp. I think I’ll be making my new mount out of eastern white oak.
 

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Mine is from Nov 1983 with hull number 168 and yours Jul 1986 with hull number 437 so 2 years 9 months older and 269 hulls later so some design changes appear to have been made over that span.

The waterline stripe is medium brown in the Gelcoat and there is no decal as the Galilee 15 branding is also in the gelcoat in black/dark brown lettering.

To cooler cover is almond/bone like the topsides and the storage compartment cover does not exist so I am considering my options there. Do I just get some blue Sunbrella type material put in some stainless snaps and make up my own or make a wooden, plexiglass or sailboard cover? Fabric with snaps would be easier to store and could be made with ties, snaps or velcro to hold it up like a Roman shade while a solid cover would need to be made of multiple pieces it order to make storage more convenient plus a track, etc would need to be installed.

Also since they did not rough it up when they applied the bottom paint and I do not leave it in the water do I wash whats left off or just scrape any loose off and freshen it. It may just rinse off through normal use/regular cleaning and rubs off any time you get within a few inches of it.
 
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