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I finished up my launch extension and its mounting bracket to store it on the trailer. I kept it simple by using the coupler already on it to secure it on the trailer by just pitting a 1/4" thick steel bar with a hitch ball on it across two of the studs for the trailer jack and add a bracket on the rear cross member of the trailer to hook it on so I just slide it into the bracket and snap the coupler on the ball.

I had to taper the aluminum beam near the coupler for clearance to the tongue of the trailer and then weld the bottom back onto the box beam.


Here it is all nicely stored away under the trailer.
 

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Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.
Looking good.

I still have not located the 2X12 oak short lengths I had set aside for these types of projects. Hopefully my daughters did not see it and use it up for one of their projects. They only look at dimensions and not at the type of wood and will grab the clear oak, maple or walnut if it fits where they want to put a plank across a few cement blocks for a plant shelf, etc or to use in the ground for landscaping.

Still waiting on the title to clear so its a mute point to get the motor mount finished and this time of year the chances of getting stuck out for an hour or so in a dead calm before a squall comes in is too great to go out without a motor.

Isn't that short shaft Honda running its ventilation plate just about at the waterline? I believe even on the air cooled models they require them to be set 6" below the waterline on a sailboat to keep the input shaft seal on the gearbox wet enough so it doesn't overheat from the exhaust.
 

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Great day today! I got the title cleared on my Galilee.

It took about a month and I now have a hard copy Florida Title in my name and a two year registration in my hands. It all would have been a lot easier and less expensive if the previous owner had kept the transfer of ownership signed over to him on the previous owners registration and notarized bill of sale. It cost an extra $185 working with a title company to get it all straightened out. I was fortunate that the HID came up clean and there were no leans or other flags on it.

Now to remove the ancient old registration numbers and affix my own.

Any recommendations for getting the old off with the least amount of damage? Whats there is still on very solid even after 20 to 30 years.
 

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Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.
JBC - The bolt locations on the 1983 version of the motor mount do interfere with the clamps on newer motors. I had to drill new holes about 2.5 inches lower so the nuts would not be underneath the clamp pads. The newer Honda BF2.3 has two clamp bolts instead of just one like yours.
 

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Thanks for all of the good information on the Galilee 15.

I just picked one up and am excited to get her out on the water. Everything on it is original including the three sails (still in excellent shape). Only thing missing is the splash guard (no biggie).

The only concern is that the cockpit port side seating seems hollow when knocking on it. Starboard side sounds solid when knocking. Any opinions or advise on that hollow sound?

Thanks All...

Jim G

1984
Hull #290
 

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Thanks for all of the good information on the Galilee 15.

I just picked one up and am excited to get her out on the water. Everything on it is original including the three sails (still in excellent shape). Only thing missing is the splash guard (no biggie).

The only concern is that the cockpit port side seating seems hollow when knocking on it. Starboard side sounds solid when knocking. Any opinions or advise on that hollow sound?

Thanks All...

Jim G

1984
Hull #290
I have an inspection hatch in the floor of my cockpit near to the daggerboard trunk and on the bulkhead in front of the rudder shaft so I put a camera in to see the flotation and the foam is mostly in the center and appears to have been poured in while the cockpit was inverted before it was mated with the hull. If nobody removed the cockpit or cut into the bench on the port side to put in inspection ports or hatches for storage lockers then its pretty safe to believe the foam is in there even though its not making a solid sound.

Here is photo of the flotation hanging down from the port benches near to the centerboard trunk on my 1983 (note that its wet because I had the inspection port open during a tropical cloudburst and was in the process of washing out the bilges):
 

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Thank you very much Seastar! I am going to add an inspection hatch as well and take a look. I figure the boat is 34 years old and has made it all of these yeas without an issue with the hollow sounding port bench so should be good.
 

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Hello, I've recently become the owner of a Galilee 15 and although the hull is in good condition it is lacking a few necessary parts, like the boom and the tiller/rudder assembly. So, what size Dwyer boom is used on this boat? I'm fairly confident I can fabricate a new tiller/rudder assembly, although any photos of the original assembly would be appreciated.
thanks,
Steven
 

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Hello, I've recently become the owner of a Galilee 15 and although the hull is in good condition it is lacking a few necessary parts, like the boom and the tiller/rudder assembly. So, what size Dwyer boom is used on this boat? I'm fairly confident I can fabricate a new tiller/rudder assembly, although any photos of the original assembly would be appreciated.
thanks,
Steven
Photos of the original rudder are at the top of page 6 of this thread along with the diagrams from the owners manual on how the lift and lower lines are rigged through the 1 inch stainless steel rudder shaft. I used a 1 inch deck stanchion as the foundation for my tiller head and two fairlead cleats were mounted on the wooden tiller handle for the 1/4 inch rudder control lines. UHMD from the local WoodCraft store was used to make a low friction bushing between the tiller head and the top of the stern.

I will measure up the dimensions of the boom and get back to you. The boom along with the goose neck are standard Dwyer parts. The mast and the boom were filled with lengths of square closed cell flotation foam from the factory.

I highly recommend downloading the owners manual and original brochure that are posted on-line as they will answer many questions about how the boat is setup.

http://rvharvey.com/Galilee15OwnersManual.pdf

http://ruach.net/Boats/Galilee15SalesBrochure.pdf

Here is a link to one that was for sale in PORTERSVILLE, PA and has some nice pictures of how its setup:
https://lunnysauto.com/detail/15-GALILEE-FIBERGLASS-SAILBOAT-WITH-TRAILER-AND_163109306429.html
 

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SeaStar58,
Thanks for the response. Looking forward to learning the dimensions of the Boom on your boat. I have some 11' x 1.5" round aluminum tubing that I thought I might be able to repurpose for a boom on the Galilee.
Steven
 

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SeaStar58,
Thanks for the response. Looking forward to learning the dimensions of the Boom on your boat. I have some 11' x 1.5" round aluminum tubing that I thought I might be able to repurpose for a boom on the Galilee.
Steven
The tube for the boom on the Galilee is 2" X 90" (7' 6") so that would be Dwyers RT 2000 Tubing which is clear anodized so it is not a perfect match to the black anodized mast but will work:

https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=90&cat1Name=Round+Tubing&familyID=56&familyName=Aluminum+Tubing

The goose neck appears to be a DH 353-1S.

The bail is located 42" to center from the goose neck end of the tube and has a 1 1/2" fiddle block for the 3/8" sheets hanging from it.

Right next to the end cap on the port side of the boom is the eye strap for the 1/4" out haul line.

Right next to the end cap on the starboard side of the boom is the cheek block for the 1/4" out haul line.

On the starboard side of the boom 16" to center from the end of the boom tubing (at the end cap) is the out haul cleat.

The owners manual at the link previously listed will provide details with drawings on how to rig the sheets, down haul and out haul.
 

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Does anybody have an idea where I can buy sails for the Galilee 15? Anyone have a good set for sale?

Thank you.
Carolyn
You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.
 

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You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.
This thread is so old I wonder if anyone is still following Galilee 15 boats and issues. I'm still sailing one:
136419

Dodger made a huge difference, we sail open Atlantic in Maine, weather permitting... Boat is entirely original, complete, excellent condition, stored indoors winters. I can supply measurements, photos of any original parts anyone might need to re-invent. Only issue was failed cheek plate to stem weld, now reinforced. Now for sale, if there's any interest.
Vehicle Water transportation Boat Sailboat Watercraft
 

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I recently managed to break off the cheek plates off the rudder post of my Galilee 15 and lose the rudder - and all steering. Anyone know of a reasonable replacement rudder or have one lying around from a junked Galilee 15? I figure if I can get new cheek plates made and welded on - but then I need a rudder blade. Any other suggestions for the repair would be helpful. Thanks!

Chris P
I recently picked up a Galilee 15 and it works pretty well. But I am trying to replace the lines that go into the rudder under the "cheekplate"? and then goes up the rudder post. I don't understand how the lines attach to the rudder under the cheek plate as the lines are mashed under that plate when bolted down. Seems like there ought to be space for the lines to move. Any ideas?
 
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