Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.
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Looking good.Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.
JBC - The bolt locations on the 1983 version of the motor mount do interfere with the clamps on newer motors. I had to drill new holes about 2.5 inches lower so the nuts would not be underneath the clamp pads. The newer Honda BF2.3 has two clamp bolts instead of just one like yours.Thanks for the measurements on the rudder. Made the rudder, tiller and motor mount of Eastern white oak.
I have an inspection hatch in the floor of my cockpit near to the daggerboard trunk and on the bulkhead in front of the rudder shaft so I put a camera in to see the flotation and the foam is mostly in the center and appears to have been poured in while the cockpit was inverted before it was mated with the hull. If nobody removed the cockpit or cut into the bench on the port side to put in inspection ports or hatches for storage lockers then its pretty safe to believe the foam is in there even though its not making a solid sound.Thanks for all of the good information on the Galilee 15.
I just picked one up and am excited to get her out on the water. Everything on it is original including the three sails (still in excellent shape). Only thing missing is the splash guard (no biggie).
The only concern is that the cockpit port side seating seems hollow when knocking on it. Starboard side sounds solid when knocking. Any opinions or advise on that hollow sound?
Thanks All...
Jim G
1984
Hull #290
Photos of the original rudder are at the top of page 6 of this thread along with the diagrams from the owners manual on how the lift and lower lines are rigged through the 1 inch stainless steel rudder shaft. I used a 1 inch deck stanchion as the foundation for my tiller head and two fairlead cleats were mounted on the wooden tiller handle for the 1/4 inch rudder control lines. UHMD from the local WoodCraft store was used to make a low friction bushing between the tiller head and the top of the stern.Hello, I've recently become the owner of a Galilee 15 and although the hull is in good condition it is lacking a few necessary parts, like the boom and the tiller/rudder assembly. So, what size Dwyer boom is used on this boat? I'm fairly confident I can fabricate a new tiller/rudder assembly, although any photos of the original assembly would be appreciated.
thanks,
Steven
The tube for the boom on the Galilee is 2" X 90" (7' 6") so that would be Dwyers RT 2000 Tubing which is clear anodized so it is not a perfect match to the black anodized mast but will work:SeaStar58,
Thanks for the response. Looking forward to learning the dimensions of the Boom on your boat. I have some 11' x 1.5" round aluminum tubing that I thought I might be able to repurpose for a boom on the Galilee.
Steven
You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.Does anybody have an idea where I can buy sails for the Galilee 15? Anyone have a good set for sale?
Thank you.
Carolyn
This thread is so old I wonder if anyone is still following Galilee 15 boats and issues. I'm still sailing one:You can purchase the sails from the first 2 sail lofts listed in the post right above yours. American appears to have stopped making sails for other brands of boats.
I recently picked up a Galilee 15 and it works pretty well. But I am trying to replace the lines that go into the rudder under the "cheekplate"? and then goes up the rudder post. I don't understand how the lines attach to the rudder under the cheek plate as the lines are mashed under that plate when bolted down. Seems like there ought to be space for the lines to move. Any ideas?I recently managed to break off the cheek plates off the rudder post of my Galilee 15 and lose the rudder - and all steering. Anyone know of a reasonable replacement rudder or have one lying around from a junked Galilee 15? I figure if I can get new cheek plates made and welded on - but then I need a rudder blade. Any other suggestions for the repair would be helpful. Thanks!
Chris P