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I'd also like to know: any disadvantage in using a single genoa sheet with a lark's head/cow hitch/whatever tied at the sail?
One downside, at least: the sheet chafes at the same points. By using two sheets and switching them end for end occassionally, the life of the sheet is extended.

Jack
 

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I also use a larkshead (center-of-line-bight through clew then ends through bight), because that's the way the PO did it. So far I'm not crazy about this system: it means sail changes take a lot longer as lines have to be pulled out of the fairleads and coiled, and then new lines rigged (since as mentioned above, each hanked-on jib gets its own sheet).

Moreover I find that in heavier air if a tack isn't timed right, it can snag on the forward shrouds. A bowline with a knot a ways back from the clew, like in Giu's setup, might not have this problem?

Finally I'm a bit concerned that keeping ever-tightening knots in the line is bad for its health. I'm thinking of switching to separate sheets, and if I do I'll definitely follow Giulietta's advice.
 

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Maybe I am weird on this, been called weird before for other reasons........

For my two jibs, each has its own sheets, granted this costs a bit more, but when you know you will be changing jibs, in my case, 110 to 155 or 155 down to a 110, I setup the new jib's lines in the carrs, on the forestay etc, and drop the one, and hoist the other.

I also admit, my 110 uses a different carr/track that is farther forward than the 155 or my cruising 140 that will be here in a month or so.........BUT even if they used the same carr, I have the carrs that two lines that can run thru, so you set up the one while still using the other, and again, jib changes are kept to minimum time. Even if it is just spouse and I vs when racing with 4-6 crew on board etc.

This method works fine for the hanked on jibs I had, now with a foil, one jib can be up, the other in the lee hoisting, drop the filled on, and new fills almost instantaniously! But again, you need two sets of sheets to do this method, strictly cruisers may not want the extra expense of the lines.

This is my mad or madd or what ever method you want to call it for the use of jibs/geno's etc.

Marty
 

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For years I have used a double length jib sheet.The center of the sheet is pushed through the clew and the two ends pulled through the bight then pulled tight.Doesn't catch on mast hardware when tacking and reduces the weight on the clew in light weather.I leave it on the sail when folding it .Requires re running the sheets for each sail change but it works for me.
Phil
Sounds like the KISS Keep it simple principle to me. It is what I have done since day 1 with hank-ons and still do with the rollerfurler. My lines have not worn out yet and I have seperate blocks/tracks for jib vs genoa so I have to re-thread the sheets either way. They are not that expensive anyway.
 

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This method works fine for the hanked on jibs I had, now with a foil, one jib can be up, the other in the lee hoisting, drop the filled on, and new fills almost instantaniously! But again, you need two sets of sheets to do this method, strictly cruisers may not want the extra expense of the lines.

Marty
That method isn't mad, it's called a peal. And the fastest way to make a sail change. I'm not a fan of huge loops at the clew, a larks head seems to work the best and saves on weight pulling down the sail in light air.
 

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zz,

Thanks for the actual term ie "peal" for when raising and lowering foiled jibs. The "mad or madd" part of quote was just to say my way of doing things. Be it right or wrong, as in any of the methods mentioned, they all work, it is more of a which works best for me vs you vs _________ all are right and wrong and _____________

I will have to remember the term "peal" thos! thank you!
Marty
 

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Can you guys clarify what you mean by "foiled" jibs?

My jibs are hanked on but I like the idea of using separate tracks for small and big jib -- I've never really made good use of the inner tracks. I think I might need a new fairlead car?
 

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Here is a picture of the two tracks I have, one on the cabin top, the other on the deck behind, ie rear ward of the side shrouds.


Sailnet and it idiotic write word and it goes to sailnets store..........."http://www.harken.com/fur ling/Carbo_Racing_Foil.php" hopefully that will work. You will need to copy the info in the parenthesis, and delete the space between the "fur ling" and that will get you to the harken site! I hope.............

When Alex gets to reposting, I am sure what he will show/has will be different, but similar in how it works etc.

Marty
 

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"http://www.harken.com/fur ling/Carbo_Racing_Foil.php" hopefully that will work.
It worked. And, O, brave new world that has such sailing gear in it. This little toy seems too good to be true?

Anyway thanks for the photo. I see a short rail on the cabintop and one on the side deck... do you have a third on the toe rail? I've got a similar setup, but always assumed the cabintop rail was for a tweaker.
 

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My upper track is for my 110 only, or possibly a smaller say .7-.90% head sail. The lower track is what came with the boat, sorta kinda........That track you see is actually new last dec with line control carrs. My old original track was about 6.5' or 2Meters in length, the new one is 8', so I now have a bit more forward for running/reaching use with the larger LP jibs. Including my 110 if I wanted to in windier conditions for a bit more off wind use vs the upper ones I can get to within 8* or their abouts vs 10-11* for the lower tracks.

A tweaker is usually a differnt setup, with a line and a metal loop, so that you can move the sheet inward a bit more than what is normal with the tracks.

I thought I had a better picture looking back with both tracks, but am not finding it. I need to setup this, but my sheets are able to run to the back of the cabin top for the 110, but need bigger winches to make this work. In the mean time, I find running the sheet line from the upper tracks to the lower then back to the 40's for the genoa work better than the 16's I currently have on the cabin top. Plan is to move the 16's inward, and put 24's or 32's on the outside for the 110 and smaller jib work and the bigger jibs use the lower tracks. My HS's consist of currently an original 135, a new carbon 155, and a dac/mylar 110 and a storm jib. the end of next month I have a replacement 140 for the 135, and a 130 reacher for the less than 7-8 knot wind days here in puget sound for summer racing to catch the zyphers my 155 will not.

Marty

on edit.....

The line you see just towards the mast from the upper track, what I am realizing you may see as a tweaker, is my AS tack line!

And a link to another forum thread with how I installed the new lower tracks, there is also a copy of it on another thread here at sailnet, but not sure where it is at.
 

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Adam,

Another note, Schaefer or Lewmar, can not remember which, makes a foil similar to the harken one. I put on a harken, or my use application thought it was the best bang for the buck, along with most of the upgrades from the OEM Goiot stuff has been harken. Don't feel that the only option is the one I used.

marty
 

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....
I will have to remember the term "peal" thos! thank you!
Marty
The term "peel" typically refers to hoisting one spinnaker before dousing the first one.. but the concept is, of course, the same. As to foil-set genoas we've always simply referred to sail changes e.g. "gotta change down to the #3", with hanked-on sail changes referred to as "bare headed" - since you cannot avoid a period of time without a headsail up or drawing.

Doing "peel" type genoa changes with a luff foil works really well, but calls for some forethought with regard to keeping the halyards organized so they don't cross during the sail changing procedure, know which "groove" you're in so that you can mostly plan to hoist a new sail in the windward groove while still sailing on the first genny. Then throw in a tack, sheet home the new sail, and now the to-be-dropped headsail is to windward and while dropping falls nicely onto the deck.

Of course all this is discussing a racing foil, not a furling foil since the swivel cannot drop if another sail is in the groove.... Headsail changes on furlers are bare headed ones too.... That said, the higher end furler have removable split drums allowing them to be converted to "racing foils" with the swivel simply left to sit at the bottom of the foil.

The main advantage of hanked on sails is that they are well-held on board by the hanks. Luff tape sails are only held by the three corners once down - takes more manpower to keep large parts of these sails from slipping overboard if mishandled. A section of a genny falling overboard and filling in the water can easily tear a stanchion out (or at least bend it)

Sorry for the lecture.. most of you don't need it, but some may find it new to them and helpful!;)
 

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With all of Mr Fasters lecture.........have we gotten off topic, or have we gotten off topic!.......... at least it is still sailing oriented?!?!?!?!?!:D:D:D
 

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With ..Faster's lecture.........have we gotten off topic, or have we gotten off topic!.......... at least it is still sailing oriented?!?!?!?!?!:D:D:D
Hey.. the first word in the thread title is genoa......:) :D
 
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