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Need advice. Any tricks to getting hoses off. Need to take the hose off the pump that supplies cooling water to the air conditioner. It’s down under a locker next to my electrical panel locker. Under this locker is actually part of the bilge. As expected salt water must of splashed up from the bilge and fried the pumps motor. I got the exhaust hose off but can’t get the supply hose off. I unbolted the device from the bracket it’s mounted on to get some access to the hose but still space is very limited. Any tricks you know would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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A heat gun is pretty good. It softens the hose nicely. It might be able to waft hot air into difficult to get to sides.
If no heat gun you could quietly borrow your wifes hair dryer.... quietly ;)
 

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If I don't need to save the hose, I'll just use the Dremel tool to cut it off. A couple of slices up and down the hose, even wire reinforced hose, wherever you can reach it, and you've saved lots of time. All you need to do is know the thickness of the hose, which you can get from the other end for your depth setting.
 
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Hose in good shape. Don’t want to have to rerun it. Other end goes to compressor. Don’t want to struggle to get it off. But good thought in different setting. Have heat gun 2000+ miles away at home. Don’t know where to find one here. Will try wife’s hair dryer. Picks not practical in this space and will damage hose. But thanks for the post. Have dental picks on the boat which are helpful in other settings.
 

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This is a common problem that kicks me constantly. If you have enough spare hose length, the one thing that always works for me is to cut off the hose square at the end of the barb, then carefully slice the remaining bit lengthwise along the barb until you can pry it loose.

Of course, eventually you run out of spare hose length. And you need stitches from trying to carefully slice the remaining bit lengthwise along the barb...

I laugh at all the warnings and technical articles about double clamping hoses, and making sure the clamps are in specific orientations, and making sure you use only specific types and styles of clamps, etc. It seems like every time I slip a hose over a barb, it welds itself on and is never coming off again.

Mark
 

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Hose in good shape. Don’t want to have to rerun it.
Well then, I'll tell you how I really do it. I married a younger woman who enjoys doing the mechanical work. All I need do is point and she's in there swearing at that damn hose (or any of a thousand other inanimate items aboard) as she works. Just as I would, were I doing the work!
 

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If you don’t have a heat gun, you can boil some water in an old coffee can, dunk a rag in the hot water using pliers, and wrap it around the end of the hose. Do it several times, as necessary, and it will soften the hose so you can force it off the barb. With this technique it is hard to overheat the hose, as can be the case with a heat gun. —but it is messy.
 

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Definitely heat makes it easier, then start with twisting it to break it free. Once it can rotate on the barbed fitting start working it back and forth in all directions as you pull. If you can get a small screw driver under the hose and pry it off. It shouldn't damage the hose too much. If it does, it is probably time to replace the hose!


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I've become a fan of these, I have a few different sizes.



that plus heat will generally win the day.

Although capta has gotten it right. His solution is, by far, the best approach!
 

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Replaced all the sanitation hose on our boat shortly after purchase. Was having a bear of a time until I tried a heat gun (lowest setting, starting far away) and a radiator pick similar to that shown below. Everything came off very easily, but you need to work the pick around the circumference of the fitting as access allows. I've heard (and can appreciate) that being too aggressive with the pick may hurt the barb so be careful. Also, I wouldn't use this on all types of hoses/barbs. It would be extremely easy to damage a bilge pump barb or the corrugated hose often used for it's discharge.

Odd thing is how many different uses I've found for this tool since acquiring it. 95% of them have nothing to do with a hose or a boat.



https://www.amazon.com/JC-PERFORMANCE-PRODUCTS-USA-Radiator/dp/B07CZNZGND/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_1/136-9228649-5620208?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CZNZGND&pd_rd_r=18ec2f32-ab86-417c-9a57-19f4e6dd954d&pd_rd_w=XUOgH&pd_rd_wg=HimdG&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=WG69S6D5PX4SZKHS5JWH&psc=1&refRID=WG69S6D5PX4SZKHS5JWH
 

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This is not an uncommon problem. It's never a good idea to have no "service loop" or extra hose or even wire if you have re make a connection. If you don't your hose or wire will be too short and that may mean replacing and doing a whole new run with hose or wire.

If applying heat is not convenient or working on hose and you can't get a pick to pry it off, the only option is to destroy the hose that is on the barb fitting. If doing this means the hose is not too short and you don't want to run a whole new hose for whatever reason, it may work to cut off a short length of you hose and use a new piece of hose... make it long enough and a connector fitting. You'll need some more clamps of course, a bit of hose and the connector.

If the hose is not secured to the boat you may be able to use it to pull a new hose in its place. Simpy cut it at both ends, add a connector to a new length of hose and carefully pull the old now too short hose with the new one attached. Make sure to replace with a long enough hose to make up the fitting at each end. If the old hose is still serviceable, save it for a spare.

Having "service loops" for hose and wire allows you to move equipment while connected... or simple cut the hose or wire and remake. The loop can be anywhere in the run. Something to consider but it's not always possible or "neat".
 

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So here is the MacGyver on this. If you don't have a a heat gun and you can't use a hair dryer (a hair dryer usually works but takes longer and has a shorter working time) you can fold a metal can lid in half and wrap it around the hose and then hit that with a mini-torch keeping the the mini torch moving quickly around the hose. The metal keeps you from burning the hose.

Once the hose is warm, as others have suggested you should be able to rotate it on the nipple breaking the seal with the nipple. (I have also put pliers on the hose to get enough leverage to rotate a stubborn hose.)

Once the hose is loose enough to turn, I take a needle nose vice grip (small hoses) and adjust it so that it smaller than the diameter of the hose but not crimped onto the barbs, and push the hose off from the open end of the hose. Hoses act as a Chinese finger handcuff and so pulling the hose off can tighten it onto the barbs while pushing the hose off sometimes will expand the hose enough that it will slip off more easily.

Plan 'C' (as in Cut the F*&^%$G hose) would be to cut the hose and then simply add a straight connector and a short length of new hose leaving enough excess hose so you can cut the hose off the next time that you need to struggle through this.


Jeff
 

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Heat is the only way to go, if it's really important to use the hose again. My heat gun is always aboard. Wonder if you'd find a neighbor with one. A hair dryer can work, but will take forever to really heat up enough to soften hose. Be patient.

The hose removal tools are good too, however, there is a good chance you'll permanently damage the hose. Getting the hook, or a screwdriver, between the hose and and the barb can split a brittle hose. Be careful. I bet the method eats almost half the hoses I've tried it on.

Anytime I replace a hose, for just this reason, I always leave extra length to be able to cut it off in a pinch.

On the other side of the deal, I'll often heat a hose to get it back on the barb too. Then tighten the clamp before it's fully cool. That's a bit of an art, as too soft with just deform. I'm looking for the hose, such as head hoses, to full form into the barb, to help prevent leakage or separation.
 
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