Gybe-EZE
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514 Posts
It's Gybe'easy and it's a boom brake with no moving parts.
Wichard - Boom Brake- Gybe Easy: Mauri Pro Sailing=http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info.php/products_id/46330
Wichard - Boom Brake- Gybe Easy: Mauri Pro Sailing=http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info.php/products_id/46330
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4,647 Posts
I have been interested in those for some time, but according to the provided link, the Mauri price is $223. That sounds awful high for what your getting.
If you have lifting tackle on the boat for a life sling, you have a boom brake.
Rig the tackle to the end of the boom and the other block to the toe rail equal with the shrouds. The bitter end is brought back to a stern cleat.
And if the tackle is needed to lift a person out of the water it is already pre rigged.
Rig the tackle to the end of the boom and the other block to the toe rail equal with the shrouds. The bitter end is brought back to a stern cleat.
And if the tackle is needed to lift a person out of the water it is already pre rigged.
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57 Posts
Okay, I think I've got it. I usually bring the main in kind of close hauled as I jibe with the main sheet so it won't have so far to swing as we gybe. I guess with the Gybe eze it would be a little easier. Do you have to move it to the other sid after you tack?
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899 Posts
No, you don't have to move it, the line goes from toe rail to toe rail, and the device slides along it.
One of the problems with gybe control devices like this is that to be really effective you'd want the braking action to be control speed, not force. You'd like the device to have no effect if the boom is moving slowly, then apply force as it speeds up to keep it from going really fast. Tough to do that with just line friction. I think these devices require a fair amount of adjusting to wind speed to do a good job.
One of the problems with gybe control devices like this is that to be really effective you'd want the braking action to be control speed, not force. You'd like the device to have no effect if the boom is moving slowly, then apply force as it speeds up to keep it from going really fast. Tough to do that with just line friction. I think these devices require a fair amount of adjusting to wind speed to do a good job.
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4,647 Posts
Mike,
I do rig a preventer like you describe, but I thought these "brakes" provided a bit more versatility. I will simply continue to rig a preventer, but they have some downsides, like if you have to jibe in an emergency. As you know you have to release the preventer before you can flip her over, I think its a little less complicated with a brake.
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57 Posts
Much Thanks for the explanations. I think I'll stay old school and try to remember to duck at the right times. Actually I'm not that tall, I haven't been nailed by the boom on Warhorse yet, but the boom on our H16 has made a few dents though.
Yes I do Tim, I know to ease it around the cleat may take more time in an emergency, how much time would it take you to rig the tackle in a emergency ( think dark and lumpy seas)? Every Man is his Captain, It is just the way I do it.
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4,647 Posts
I hear you my friend.
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3 Posts
Has anyone tried making their own gybe - eze. They work on the same principle that a figure eight for rapelling uses. I have thought about trying a figure eight on mine but haven't gotten around to it yet.
-Andy
-Andy
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2,301 Posts
I've thought the same thing, the Gybe-eze just gives multiple friction settings were a figure 8 only gives one option.
A brakebar like rescue teams and cavers use might also be an option and it would allow you to increase or decrease friction based on wind speed.
I do think the price of the Gybe-ez is incrediably high for a belay device and a piece of "special rope".
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993 Posts
IMHO, you're better off with the bulkier Dutchman boom brake. It has a much wider friction range adjustment
The real advantage of a brake over a preventer is that if the boat is accidentally knocked down, you don't have to release the brake for the boom to swing across the boat... With a preventer, you do. Also, you generally don't have to adjust a brake very much, where a preventer has to be moved for each tack—leaving you with a window where the unrestrained boom can do damage.
The real advantage of a brake over a preventer is that if the boat is accidentally knocked down, you don't have to release the brake for the boom to swing across the boat... With a preventer, you do. Also, you generally don't have to adjust a brake very much, where a preventer has to be moved for each tack—leaving you with a window where the unrestrained boom can do damage.
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