SailNet Community banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are thinking of replacing our existing dodger with one of the hard kind. Does anybody have any experience with this? Recommendations, pictures, price points?

Thank You,

Stefan Balbo
Hood 38 Mk 2
Persephone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
We built ours from ply and fiberglass...it was a really big job and came out quite heavy.

I would probably use another core material if it was available...like foam.

I did go a bit over the top with the glass as well, but I needed to be able to stand/dance on it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Kaluvic

Just out of curiosity, what was the thickness of plywood you used. I like the idea of not having any sides, reduces windage a little. Nice piece of kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Thanks SV Vita

The ply was 18mm and I cut fairly deep groves through it about every 5cm, in order to get the bend...then the groves were filled with poly filler before the glass.

It is heavy but tough.

I just added the hand holds to it a few days back.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
One reason for being that thick is I needed to be able to hide a wire chase for a light within the roof...another reason was that here in Lebanon I couldn’t get quality ply any thinner...now I can get 12mm, but not then.

Making the handles was a big job but a lot of fun…thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,220 Posts
Absolutely love our hard dodger. First time I’ve had one and it’s the best thing ever.
Do it in foam. We used divynicell. If to do over would use corecell. We climb on it so have some minor stress cracks in the underneath because of that. If we had builder put in a bit more camber that wouldn’t have occurred.
Measure sight lines and make sure height is right. You want the tallest person usually on the boat to get in/out of companionway without needing to bend much if at all. But want that person to be able to see over the dodger and the smallest usual person to easily see through it.
May sure you incorporate a drip edge so with the insert between the dodger and bimini the seats of the cockpit stay dry.
We put 1” ss rail along the back as well as the side to serve as hand holds. I frequently clip on the one on the back. Then have full access to the winches and clutches throughout the cockpit without needing to unclip nor get tangled in the tether. So it’s a great handhold while standing watch.
We did put in a UV blocking film between the glass but no tint. Builder wanted tint but wanted the better night vision no tint provides. Non of the heavy glass panels open so with the hatches closed can have the decks awash with no leaks.
The reef lines, vang, topping lift and halyards come through the bottom edge but dump our lines there so trivial water comes in and just drains to the side and then the lateral gutter on the seats keeping you dry.
We also stuck lapolights(red and white) underneath so I can finally get crew to not wear headlamps and blind me.
Lastly put two forward opening hatches on the top as in the tropics it get hot under a dodger without them.
If you use a good core and plan to climb on it put nonskid on top. We used the same color as our top sides so it looks smart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Are you a hood 38 too?

Any one have cross sections for the hoot 38? I need to get the dead rise angle for a transducer - preferably without pulling the boat out of the water.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top