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Help Fitting Bunks/Settees

1097 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by RichP, Mar 1, 2009

RichP

Discussion Starter · Feb 28, 2009

Hi there!
As part of my rebuild of my boat i got rid of the glassed in bunks and intend to fit new glassed in plywood bunks.

I'm looking for some advice for the best way to do this as i've spent ages thinking of ways to do it, and then rejecting them etc!
The datum i am working from is the mast compression post (pictured), the berth is an L shaped one at the bulkhead end and it extends all the way back to the aft bulkhead forming a quarterberth as well.
Ideally i would like it to fit over the stringers and then be glassed into the bilge in order to keep the lockers dry and also stiffen the hull some.

I can't make the whole side in one piece as its longer than 8', has anyone got any thoughts on the best way to go about it? (I'm filling in the holes in the bulkhead)
I intend to fix some 2x1 to the bulkheads at the height of the bunk tops to give them something to rest on at each end but i won't say my plans after that as i'd like to hear peoples un-influenced opinions!

Any help greatly appreciated thanks!

Rich

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pvanv1

· #2 · Mar 1, 2009

To get a sheet longer than 8 feet, scarf two together. A scarf is a very-narrow-angle bevel. Lots of info on that at the west systems site.

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RichP

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 1, 2009

Cheers!
My main issue is getting it all aligned and cut to size exactly as boats aren't exactly high tolerance dimensions inside!

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pvanv1

· #4 · Mar 1, 2009

RichP said:
Cheers!
My main issue is getting it all aligned and cut to size exactly as boats aren't exactly high tolerance dimensions inside!

A template is called for.

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RichP

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 1, 2009

Any advice from anyone on how to go about it? Or the method you used? Thanks!

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bljones

· #6 · Mar 1, 2009

This will prove invaluable:

Matching Curves With A Tick Stick

I am surprised you want a bunk longer than 8 feet. That is a lot of lost real estate, but, if so, a butt block may be a simpler solution than a scarf.

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scottyt

· #7 · Mar 1, 2009

first use ms paint and give us a head up view of what you want, we might under stand better. as for long sheets i would make it with a lapped peice of wood under neither the joint, you could bring it in, in pieces and glue it up in the boat. ----===---- some thing like that for the lap joint. also if you seal up the space under under the settees you might want to ad a drain plug so if/when you get water under there you can pull the plug and let it drain to the bilge.

as for mocking things up to see how they fit, i would use blue insulation foam, they sell it in 3/4 inch thick sheets, easy to cut and move around. when done mocking and building you can use the foam for insulation

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mitiempo

· #8 · Mar 1, 2009

fitting bunks

Since you can't support an 8' long piece of ply just at the ends, glass in partial bulkheads at intervals and make one of them at the ply join. You need the added strength anyway. I'd place one partial bulkhead at the corner of the "L", and space two or three evenly the rest of the way. Use epoxy and not polyester for a much better bond. Two layers of biaxial tape on each side of the bulkhead should suffice, after creating a fillet at the bulkhead to hull join.

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RichP

Discussion Starter · #9 · Mar 1, 2009

Here are some updated pics!
What i want is a settee in the cabin, which continues down the back into a quarter berth, i am getting rid of the trotter box. Both the quarter berth and the settee will be used for sleeping when i have extra crew onboard at a regatta.
The bunks look wide the way i've pictured them but i will be building lockers behind them.

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