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Discussion Starter #1
Hay its the camels
ok well the engine is a Sabb and thats not a typo i wish it was. So far we have pulled the injectors 6 times to prime , bulb prime ,crank prime and the electric fuel pump prime, checked the glow plugs they are all hot at proper voltage. we did replace the mech fuel pump with a electric. the mech died while crossing the gulf. We had a bit of bio foul in the tank that killed our raycore and secondary filters. first dirty diesel problem was noticed after we left Xclac we prodded under sail to Isla mujeras 3 knots all the way ugg. ok we pumped out the 46 gallons in isla ran it threw a 3 stage filter to polish( did this 4 time before reintroducing to tank we had some water and the dreaded black goo of death. we ended up getting a Mexican mech to get her started in isla but the english to spanish did help me understand the issue at all i was just happy to hear her purr again. So we started our gulf crossing hit 14 ft waves got tossed and yet the engine kept purring along. filters remained good . we shut her off for an hour every day and checked everything lubed the trany and the v pitch prop. but she always started rite up. so we get into port in offets bayou Galveston. needles to say after the crossign we were both trashed we dont have auto pilot so its hard core shifts. Any way we slept on land at my moms house came back to the boat 12 hours later and she would not start at all turn over just fine but no fire. then we got hit by Ike so that slowed up up a bit Galatea made it just fine. So thats where we are trapped in Galveston untill we make enough money to pay a mech or fix it our selves. i have made one big mistake i am not a diesel mechanic yet but i am learning. so what do you all think ready to hear from everyone that has an idea.:D
 

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Dirt Free
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Bubb2 is right however as you are not experienced a little more detail may help. Follow your fuel lines from the injection pump to the injectors to find the one furthest from the pump (longest fuel line usually) There is a nut around the fuel line at the injector ... loosen this nut about 1/2 to 3/4 turn and have someone crank the engine while you watch around the nut. Fuel should squirt out around the nut. If you see any air bubbles in the fuel keep cranking until it is gone. Tighten the nut while the engine is still cranking (avoids sucking air back in). You MUST wear safety goggles while watching the nut as fuel pressure is extreme and the fuel can penetrate skin and eyes in some circumstances. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
all right this is what i have done so far. the mechanical fuel pump died, i replaced that with a electric. i could not get the oem because the engine is a sabb Norwegian diesel. I will change this as soon as i can afford a re power. i started at the manual and primed the way directed. i put a blister pump in feed line directly out of the tank primed to point of good solid fuel from each cracked injectors as well as points listed to crack in manual. i have done this 4 time once a friend did this while i was up top cranking to prime still no more air was found. called a friend that is a gass marine mechanic he messed with it and could not find air. he could not understand why she will not light either( i am not a mechanically inclined guy unfortunately) i disabled the electric shut off and tied a string to the fuel cut off lever. i thought that if the shut down switch went bad or the electric pin thing that blocks fuel broke that could stop cause the problem.I don"t remember the frikin name of the part) i might want to mention i have been sailing for 15 years but this is my first boat,had her for a year and a half. out cruising with no big problem for 8 months.

i have not pulled the lines i am worried about no being able to get them back on properly. would one clogged fule line completely kill the engine ? Oh i am sorry she is a 30hp 4 cyl

i was also wandering if this could cause this bear with me i cant post a photo yet i am to new so ill try to explain. i have a metal thing coming out of the back of my heat exchanger ( the one on the tip of the engine) it kinda looks like an exhaust lowering unit but its got a sensor and a water line going to it from the oil cooler. this attaches to the part of the exhaust that s a plastic box that catches water ( i forgot the name of this as well) then goes to the exhaust threw hull. wel the metal exhaust lowering thing is rusted on the bottom and appears to be a bit crushed in. Could this be the killer that is not allowing her to light? i started thinking that it could be like a potato in the tail pipe. but it does not look like it is completely crushed in adn when i turn her over i can hear water running down to the plastic box thing.
sorry everyone for all this forgotten terms.
 

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One clogged fuel line should not stop the other three from firing. It still sounds like an air leak to me. Have you changed the fuel filter ? Do you have the filter gasket seated properly ? Is your fuel shut-off a cable to a manual lever or is it a solenoid type ? It is also possible that you have bad rings causing your compression to be so low that there is not enough to ignite the fuel. A cracked head or head gasket could have the same effect. Have you checked your oil or coolant (have a heat exchanger ?) for contamination ?
PS. I think you mean "SAAB".
 

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It looks like the fuel contamination could be the problem again. If your tank has an inspection hatch on it, sample the fuel from deep in the tank. Is it mucky?

Alternatively you have drawn some air. I am puzzled. From perfect running to no running at all. That sounds like air, but you said you had an electrical charge pump (like my boat also) so if there is a leak that normally means fuel leaking out and not air in. Try leaving the electrical charge pump on for 20 minutes to pressurise the system. Do you see fuel leaking out?

Can you take a picture of the motor and explain what you believe has happened. I cannot decipher it from your description.
 

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Midwest Puddle Pirate
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You can also fire the engine on WD-40 to make sure it's a fuel problem and not low compression. Spray some down the intake and crank it up. If it won't fire on WD-40, you need to get with a diesel mech and get the compression checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have tried the old w d trick. And yes its not saab it sabb. I have photos of the engine. but i can not put them on here because i am new. cracked head gasket or rings. that sound like a really major problem. On the compression check can i get a tool to get a reading on the compression?
 

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Yes, if the rings are worn a compression test will show that. If the head gasket or head is cracked you will find oil in the coolant or water in the oil and this should be very easy to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok that is a major relief. no watery oil at all and no oil in the water that would be a major disaster, finding a head gasket for this engine would most likely be impossible. i have tried to talk to the sabb people in Norway but they really are not helpful and well don't seem to want to be bothered. i just don't knwo where the air could be. i have to get the compression tested so i know for sure. would i need to get a mechanic for the compression testing? or is that something i can do my self?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rockter

ok i dont have a way to get to the tank i know i really need to put one in. i have had a big issue with the fuel in Isla and the Yucatan strait. Oh and i originally had a mechanical fuel pump but it stopped priming. so i took that off and sure enough the gasket was torn and since i can not get the sabb people to send me one or talk to me about what way i cant find the part number or replace it i had to put in an electric pump.

Has any one ever had a diesel that just would not restard after 8 months or running with out issues. I expected the crossing to really kick up some major foul problems but all i got was orange slag even after the 12 to 14 foot days.i changed the raycor and secondary filter the day after we got in port as well as changed the oil. and she still didnt fire at all. rite now at this point the air filter is off so she can breath. i put my hand over the air intake and it sucks when turning it over. has any one heard of sabb at all i have heard a rumor that they build life boat engines. their web site does not help at all its just a history of a one cyl engine. so nothing there at all. what is the cheapest i can expect for a diesel 30 to 60 hp? i am starting to think that may be the smartest thing to think about.
 

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Midwest Puddle Pirate
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It would most likely be cheaper to hire a mechanic to test the compression than to buy the compression gauge with the proper adapters for your engine.

My diesel compression gauge kit cost me $400.
 

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Blue :

Disconnect your current fuel feed from the tank, and purge as much of the old fuel from the lines as you can.

Improvise a make-shift fuel feed, using a funnel onto a line, or something, using gravity feed.

Put some new fuel in there and see if it will run on that.

Poor fuel would explain the symptoms you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Us27 when i spray wd and turn it over it makes a bit of a clank sound sorta like if i was to spray eather but not as aggressive clank. I did attempt eather once, but that was a long time before this issue occurred. need less to say i will never do that again. Wd is the only thing i will spray.

rockter ill get on that as soon as this northern passes. most likely tomorow. ill let you know the result.
as soon as i get the ability to post photos ill post photos of the exaust issue and other photos to see if that may help.

Also is there any thing anyone can think of that would be related to dash wiring that could cause the engine to do this besides the selinoid ( thanks forgot that one)
 

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Blue :

You really must get the muck out of that fuel tank. If not, you are storing trouble for the future. Pump the fuel out, fill it to the brim with water (to control the fire risk), and cut a hole in the flat? surface at the top of the tank above the deepest point in the tank.
Fit a hatch to the aperture. It's not a lot of work. It will be very useful in future to control contaminants, and it will pay for itself in filters many times over.
My own tank gave similar trouble back in 1992, with cloudy fuel and gummy filters. In 1997 I fitted a hatch to it. The result?... not a single incident of even cloudy fuel since, very little debris indeed in the Racor filter bowl, and improved starting. I run a 5 psi pressurised system, so if there is a leak then fuel leaks out and not air in.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
EscapadeC i stop it via string atached to the choke lever.

Rockter i totally agree i have been putting it off for way to long. its a bit harder thou because my boat i steel so i have to cut the hatch with a torch or a dye grinder. but I really have to do it i am sure there is a ton of goo at the bottom of the tank and just like you say every time i hit any type of bouncy seas ill have problems.
 

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Bluesky, a bit OT here but is your 'Galatea' the same one shown on the Dix site ?
 
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