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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

Trying to resurrect my old Hi-Seas diesel bulkhead-mount heater. It's in reasonably good condition and I don't want to give up on it quite yet. Found a thread on the subject but it was several years old.

It's a 100-C model. Worked mighty well on my Cheoy Lee way back when. Never did have a manual for it, so if someone has an electronic copy I'd be forever in your debt if you could pass it along.

Also, has anyone come up with an "ideal" available replacement wick, or the easiest one to modify? Must be something out there but if someone has already solved the problem with success I'd surely like to hear about it.

Thanks much
 

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One of None
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I've not been much help on this. but thanks Newhaul for the recommendation

Here's a discussion I was in on. Hi Seas Diesel Heater I guess the guy got it working ok. I has pics
I think you will have make a wick out of a kero heater wick. the valve and fuel supply are always a problem in such gadgets. and "low" is never a good setting.

The wick shop looks like a good source!
 
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islander bahama 24
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You worked HVAC on the east coast I'm west coast there is mostly fuel oil here is mostly natural gas I was also thinking on wick for kero heater as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Newhaul and Denise for your help....much appreciated.

Bud at Westsail Parts was kind enough to send a scan of the Hi-Seas manual...absolutely essential, so if someone else needs the info please feel free to contact me and I will pass it along electronically :).

As far as the wick goes, mine is intact but not in great shape. Conferred with Miles at The Wick Shop about it. I'm going to disassemble the Hi-Seas again, get some pics of the wick and accurate measurements, and send them along to him. He uses the very best materials and it sounds like he can make an excellent, robust replacement vaporizing wick for the 100-C heater...and at a very reasonable cost IMHO. I'll test one to confirm performance and then he'll add them to his inventory list. EXCELLENT NEWS for other Hi-Seas owners!

As far as the metering valve goes, if someone else has one of these heaters and can't get it to work, just about any generic valve can be mounted. As long as the burner isn't completely corroded there's no reason not to return a Hi-Seas heater to service...since it looks like (hopefully) a replacement wick will be available in the near future.

If a person takes the short time to learn how to properly set-up and operate a wick heater they will likely find them preferable to the "pot-burners" currently on the market....simple, safe, and very good performers. Probably lots of these out there in storage because no parts, ie: wicks, were available. I see them go real cheap on craigslist now and then in the pacific northwest.

I need to fabricate a damper for mine and find a charlie noble and associated pipe and caps for the installation but am looking forward to the overnight warmth during winter sailing.

I will post on the new wick and how it performs after installation. As I mentioned, if anyone else has a Hi-Seas give me a shout and I'll be happy to pass along any info I have acquired.

Newhaul: I used to keep my Cheoy Lee at Everett. Split my time on either side of the Cascades now. My little Electra MORC sloop is on the hard in a barn near Sultan at the moment. She'll be back on the water soon. Actually was considering getting on the list for Kingston Marina...seemed like real nice folks the last time I was there as a transient and I liked the idea of stepping off the ferry and right into the marina.
 

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One of None
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Trouble is all new wicks are made from Fiberglass.. they turn into.. yeah.. glass. the old asbestos was perfect but carcinogenic.

Why not post the manual here so we can all have it? It comes up allot in other forums.

Suggestion.. be ready to use Kerosene it's just cleaner then diesel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Denise,

Absolutely correct! Actually, I think Miles produces "historically accurate" wicks for antique collectors made out of asbestos, with the obligatory proviso vis-a-vie the legal-eagles concerning health issues. I will ask him about it, although I know the original hi-seas wicks were fiberglass. Asbestos could be the better route of course.

I always use "Jet-A" in my kerosene heaters and lamps whenever possible (I fly). It's highly-refined kerosene with better quality-control...wicks hold up better, less soot and smoke too.
Also...if you live near an aerofield that pumps jet fuel, they are required to "sump" their trucks to check for water, etc. on a daily basis. Often they have a 55 gallon drum somewhere that those sump samples go into that they have to pay to dispose of, and they're more than happy to have an enterprising soul remove it for free... ;-)

I will post the Hi-Seas manual when I get somewhere with a decent web connection. Is there a particular place on Sailnet where it should be posted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
...oops....one more addendum to the previous post:

Jet-A often can be found with or without "prist" or some other anti-biological additive. Little buggers like to grow in kero-fuel during storage periods, and the additives prevent it. I've never had a problem with wick heaters when using fuel with an anti-biological, but your mileage may vary.

If you can find an FBO at an aerofield willing to give you their sump jet fuel, it will likely be a mix of fuel with and without the anti-biological, and the diluted amount will be too negligible to give a thought to.

'nuff said ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Newhaul,

I had one of the 27-footers for several years. Heard them referred to as the Cheoy Lee "Newall," "Bluewater 27," and "Offshore 27..." Tight below decks, but lots of storage and a very well-found boat. My Electra, albeit smaller, sails a lot like the CL 27...not surprisingly. Same fore-foot cutaway underbody, low freeboard, etc., but smaller and with a lot more overhang on the stern.

Nice thing about the Electra though...I'm fabricating a better trailer that should allow me to ramp launch if absolutely necessary...not everywhere, but at places like Everett when the tide is right. We'll see how that works out...
 

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Marcaiche,
I would be interested to find out how your wick replacement is working. I took my heater apart about a month ago to clean the soot from the inside and the wick is looking a little sad. It's torn where the fuel nozzle goes into it at the top. moved the nozzle a little to get it to make better contact, but now I can't seem to get the heater above 250 on high when before it went to about 400 on high. It's hard to believe that moving the nozzle a few millimeters would have caused this difference. Otherwise it's burning clean with no soot.
I do have the manual which I can scan in if anyone still needs it.
 

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I took my heater apart about a month ago to clean the soot from the inside and the wick is looking a little sad. It's torn where the fuel nozzle goes into it at the top. moved the nozzle a little to get it to make better contact, but now I can't seem to get the heater above 250 on high when before it went to about 400 on high.
Marcaiche,
I, too, am very interested to know how well your wick is doing…?

To all, I have been considering making my own with ceramic fabric instead of fiberglas (or asbestos)…
Ceramic Fiber Cloth, Woven Fabric

dbSail,
I had the exact same experience (including the wick torn where the nozzle enters it), except now it doesn't even light… over time the max temp kept dropping until finally no fuel is flowing at all.

Replaced the pump (no day tank), which was necessary anyway, removed the sintered bronze filter inside the metering valve which a) allowed us to verify good flow/pressure *to* the valve and b) isolated the problem to a plugged metering valve (likely) or plugged nozzle (visually inspected the end, so unlikely).

The plan now is to disassemble/clean the metering valve, leave the sintered bronze filter out and insert a 20 micron inline replaceable filter just upstream of the metering valve (suggested in another post I read), since the sintered bronze filter is a PITA to get at without disassembling the stove.

If anyone has the manual already scanned, I would be interested in having a copy… I have the physical manual, I'm just being lazy in not scanning it. :D
 

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One of None
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You guys keep messing with junk to get it working and it will still be junk.

They are old old old heaters and no longer worth the trouble.

Johnny2, that "stuff" is insulation not wicking material! At least get wick material!
 
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Hi Marcaiche.
I too have a Hi Seas c100 on my CT41 in WA. It looks great and works ok, nice dry heat but I suspect it needs a good cleaning and a new wick.
You mentioned you have a PDF of the manual and info on the valve assembly. If you can send me those by email that would be great.
Also, any ideas on the pressure spec needed by the pulse pump? Thanks dabird4 AT gmail.com. I hope this thread is not too old...
 
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