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Master Mariner
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8,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know a few of us have Hood Stowaway inmast furlers and I was wondering if anyone had worked on the manual crank mechanism on the front of the mast? Do you have or know where to get an exploded view of this mechanism? Thanks
 

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Bristol 45.5 - AiniA
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Sorry, no help.
 

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Master, 100T with Sailing
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27 Posts
Capta: I have a Hood Stoway owner's manual but it is on my boat which is now all wrapped up on the hard in Bristol, RI, 2,600 mi. from me. Do you have this manual? I recall drawings of how the manual crank system works in that manual. If not, I have used Peter Linwick at Florida Rigging and Hydraulics and found them very knowledgeable and with some stocked parts for the Hood Stoway. Eric Pearson, whom I believe is in Jamestown, RI, is also mentioned frequently as very helpful on these with service and parts. I am sorry that I cannot help more. I am back aboard in June.
 

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Master Mariner
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Discussion Starter #4
Neither my Pearson boat manual and the one downloaded from Pompanette has anything more than a passing description of the manual crank. I'll give Peter Linwick at Florida Rigging and Hydraulics a try, but I have been unable to contact Eric, as he apparently doesn't do email.
Thanks for the head's up, but I hope I won't have to wait until you get back to your boat to get to work on my manual furling.
 

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1982 Skye 51
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379 Posts
capta,

I had my stoway rebuilt by eric pearson in RI 4 years ago. even before i decided to send it back to him, he was very forthcoming with helpful advice. a quick call to him might solve your problem. i just sent you a PM with his phone number. what exactly is wrong with your manual backup?
 

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Did you every get a manual or anything? I called Eric but unfortunately he is in the hospital and won't be available to help for 6 weeks. I need to take mine apart and cannot figure out how to drop the bearings to replace them.
 

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Master Mariner
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Discussion Starter #7
Did you every get a manual or anything? I called Eric but unfortunately he is in the hospital and won't be available to help for 6 weeks. I need to take mine apart and cannot figure out how to drop the bearings to replace them.
I did get a hand drawing that seems OK, and a drawing from a manual, but that is almost unintelligible, so I guess the answer is maybe. I won't be able to do the rebuild until our season is over, so I don't know for sure how much help they will be.
I am hoping DFletcher2 is getting closer to Bristol, RI, as I am anxiously awaiting a copy of his manual.
Let me know if I can help, but as I said, I haven't been in there yet.
 

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Sweet - thanks Capta - I'll message you my contact info if you can forward what you have. I'll add my notes after I complete my teardown. I figured out how to take the majority of it apart but I'm stuck at this point from completing the job.
 

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OK this is perfect - since I am new member in this post I cannot message anyone.
Capta: Can you please message me whatever you have????
Mahalo!!
 

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I've taken it apart to the point where the bearings are exposed. There are 2 regreasable lower bearings, and one seemingly sealed upper bearing (that's the one that I need to change). I cannot figure out how to remove and replace that bearing however. I can post some pics tomorrow hopefully. Can you send me the manual?
 

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IMG_3649.jpg

IMG_3650.jpg

I've taken the "shell" or "casing" apart exposing the bearings as can be seen in the attached pics. Can't figure out how to drop the bearings - need to get at that top bearing and replace it. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Master Mariner
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Discussion Starter #15
I've taken the "shell" or "casing" apart exposing the bearings as can be seen in the attached pics. Can't figure out how to drop the bearings - need to get at that top bearing and replace it. Anyone have any ideas?
I'm confused. I have nothing like that on my boat. Is that a part of a Hood Stoway inmast furling system?
We have an electric inmast Hood Stoway furling system and I need the diagram for the manual back up crank which is opposite the boom on the front of the mast. The boom will have to be removed for access to the gearing, and before I open it I would love to know what I am going to find in there.
I don't think anything I have would be of any help to you, sorry.
 

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Master, 100T with Sailing
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Capta - Thanks for the nice personal note. Your sailing destinations sound like great fun.I am back aboard the Mary Sunshine. I have the original Hood Stoway manual dated Feb1983 that came with this Hinckley SW59. Looks to me like pages 11-16 cover the schematics and manual operation of the system. I do not have a scanner aboard. I will try the library tomorrow here in Bristol and personal email it to you.
I was four miles,off Newport three days ago in a light breeze unfurling my main when I heard a loud bang in the luff slot of my mast. The tensioning turnbuckle and the (what Hood calls) the "luff rod (alum.)" were not aligned straight but at an angle inside the mast. Mmmm, smart me thought that the I had pulled out of alignment one of the sections of the "luff rod (alum.). I could take additional strain on the main halyard and nearly straighten it out. My wife who knows nothing about the Hood Stoway system other than basic operation said repeatedly that I had broke it. I sailed back to Bristol, RI and kept looking at it thinking I had an alignment issue. I called Hall Spars, one of the experts in these Hood Stoway systems and Corey came right over. He confirmed that my wife was right and I had broken the luff rod. Regardless of the diagram in my Hood manual, as I looked up the mast I was looking at the "foil" that has two guides for bolt ropes and yes, it is aluminum. But the luff rod is 3/8 in. Special Stainless Steel called Niko 50, if I heard him correctly. It has a flared end at both the masthead and the tack of the main above the turnbuckle. I helped him disassemble and pull out this luff rod from inside the foil. Dumb me. It is not the aluminum foil that takes the load from masthead to turnbuckle and tack. It is the SS luff rod that looks like a solid rod shroud. Makes sense. This solid Rod is shown in the schematic of the "Luff Rod Assembly" on p. 9 of my Hood Manual but the Rod itself is not labeled. The foil is called the luff rod (alum.) in the manual. As the foil is assembled in 7 ft. sections up to the top of my 72.5 ft. mast it can take no vertical load and sailors that have tried, after breaking their solid lufii Rod have pulled that foil partially out of the their luff slot. Not good. Hall Spars says these luff rods should be replaced every 10 years. Think of it like an additional Rod shroud. Mine appears to have lasted 32 years and was original to the boat. I did not know the Luff Rod needed periodic replacement. Well, my wife was right, as she has told me about a dozen times now. I feel pretty humble right now. It is not a bad job to replace this luff Rod. Hall Spars in Bristol, RI stocks the special SS Rod and it took them only an hour to cut and flare the ends of the Rod. About 6 hours to install it with its collets and collar at both ends. I hope this helps those of you with this system. I asked Corey how you can inspect for pending failure in the luff Rod and he said that is not possible. Just replace it every ten years. I hope that this helps others out there.
 

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I know this is an old thread but wondering if anyone can tell me the approximate cost to rebuild a Hood In Mast furler? Replace luff rod and bearings etc?

Considering purchase of a boat with one and owner indicates it has never been rebuilt. The boat is 43 feet if that helps.
 

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Master, 100T with Sailing
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Response to Bleemus:
I had to rebuild my Hood Stoway gear box in La Palma de Mallorca in late 2016. I did the removal (after carefully supporting the boom) and reinstallation. The upper bearing had galled and failed. I grease this gearbox each year but had not realized that does not help the upper bearing a bit. So I had a marine masrer mechanic and machine shop replace upper and lower bearings. As the failure was due to upper bearing lubrication, we upgraded that bearing and added a grease zerk on top so that I can annually grease that bearing. My upper bearing choice was to move to the synthetic bearings used in the big turning blocks. Total bill was $2200, about half of which was the machine shop and paint. This was for a Hinckley SW59. All other gears and parts looked good after a thorough cleaning. Good luck.
 

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Thank you DFletcher! That is right in the range I was thinking! Cheers!
 

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Master, 100T with Sailing
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Luff Rod Replacement - at Hall Spars near Newport, RI. A follow-up to my earlier post on the cost of replacing the luff rod on a Hinckley SW59 with Hood Stoway furling system. About $650 for the luff rod and about 6 hours installation which came out to about $750 labor.
 
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