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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put my battrees(the RI way to say it) today (one new one) and now I have to hunt down what I am guessing is a bad ground on the house bank. Main power indicator bleeds on but is really dim and I know the battery is good (brand new 13.8 volts from my tender to be sure)

I will have to bring my multimeter to the boat tomorrow afternoon but if anyone has a good starting point (from experience please) I am all ears:)

It was fine last year when they were removed in NOV.
 

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Hunter 34
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Check every cable terminal Blu! I'm reworking my whole battery system and I've found 3 or 4 that just came off with a twist. Most of the older boats did not use tinned marine cable (guessing)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check every cable terminal Blu! I'm reworking my whole battery system and I've found f 3 or 4 that just came off with a twist. Most of the older boats did not use tinned marine cable (guessing)
Good guess, they are pretty old...I will check those first
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Quick update -

It looks like the contacts on the 33 year old master breaker were dirty. I cycled it a few times and once I fired up the engine it was all good again.

I am splashified!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update....It turns out it didn't fix itself

I have a strange 1+ volt drop when I flip the house breaker, even with all the fuses pulled. I even bypassed the main breaker and still saw the drop so I know the draw is in the bank somewhere.

The only thing that I need power at the house bus for are tunes and nav lights as I really don't overnight. To be safe I am just going to put a temp panel in with a fresh ground, pull the hot from the old panel and wire in what I need. Resale is not really a concern for a boat in this "value" range anyway and I really don't wan't to see my prop go away to electrolysis.:laugher
 

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Keep in mind that there is nothing particularly special about ground and the positive side is equally important.

If you're able to run a new ground as you say, why not just run both positive and negative. Perhaps in the process you'll find the problem too.

Or as a better debug alternative get your multimeter across the negative and positive paths. I.E. put one side on the battery + and one side at the positive on your panel, and do the same (but opposite) for the negative side. If you have a bad connection one will have a significantly larger voltage drop than the other. The larger voltage drop is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another update...Feeling pretty foolish here:rolleyes:

I should have fallen back to my old school training (I was a missile technician after all).

It turns out that I had dirty connections at the battrees (RI lingo again). I wasted a solid 30 minutes trying to fix something that wasn't broken:mad:
 
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