I see what you mean, but I wasn’t sure how to interpret it. FYI, the clamp on charger I was using I borrowed from a friend and it’s readings tended to fluctuate a little, sometimes up to .2.If you were convinced that was true, why ask more textbook questions? Do you see three stages of charging in your tables? I’m just trying to tell you I don’t. I’ve also said I’m not so sure about your measurement system, so feel free to take it all with a grain of salt.
You may get your desired 7 years, which is also a factor of your discharge usage . No way to know.
Yes, it does seem to be a lot of extra worry, however, it is a good way to build knowledge and understanding of how the system is working.This seems to be a lot of worrying about nothing. we charge the batteries so we can go sailing not go sailing so we can charge the batteries. In the end what is all this voltage worrying about? charge the batteries with a good charger and they last 5 to 7 years worry about the voltages for the next 5 to 7 years and the batteries last 5 to 7 years plus one week.
Have a look at the title.charge the batteries with a good charger and they last 5 to 7 years
I think you are starting to understand the concepts. I can’t answer why it appears, in bulk stage, that voltage is rising (as it should) but amps are declining (which they should not). That and the appearance of no sustained Absorb stage were my original reaction. Absorb usually takes quite a while, because the battery chemistry won’t accept charge at the same rate as in Bulk. The more charged the bank becomes, the less it accepts. If you flip to Float prematurely, you often see charge amperage stay steady, while if done properly, amp acceptance will approach zero. In your case, it continues to decline, which is a good sign, but still makes no senses, with near zero Absorb time.
Is there a load on these batteries, while you are charging? If so, your readings may be the sum of charge and load and, therefore, meaningless. The only way to run your test, with a clamp meter, is to full disconnect the house and anything else drawing on the bank (ie bilge pump). I’d monitor closely, if I had no operating bilge pump, or hook the bilge to something else.
In normal operations, a charger provides power to both the bank and appliances, therefore, rarely sees the entire rated charge going into the bank. There can also be settings that throttle back max charge, as some batteries require less bulk amperage than the charger could send.