Thanks, HerbDB, I don't know why I never considered this instead of the outside gybe. I'll try that sometime; although, if I put a crew member on the task of reeling in the slack sheets, I don't have a problem with the outside gybe. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew....My personal fix is to pull the sock down over the sail, move the socked sail to the other side, then pull the sock up and reinflate the sail. Not dramatic, but safe and easy.
It's pretty unusual to tack an asym spin. But there are rare times when it's done.I race on a J120 and the asymmetrical is a Code-0, so it is made to sail at a closer angle. The tactician called to tack the code and I had to ask what???, for I had never seen nor ever performed such a maneuver, this is why I have to ask. We did proceeded with the maneuver, complete it, but with most difficulty and position loss to other boats. This is why I need to ask, what the proper way to perform the task is?
Bubb,John, all sumer I been playing with my asymmetrical. Inside, tacks. outside tacks. Using atn tacker, not using the atn tacker. Things, I found out.
Using the Tacker keeps the clew to the center line and makes outside gybes easy. Yes, you do give up higher reaching angles, but for me it is a good trade off. I single hand 85% of time. Slowly start the gybe by bring the bow toward the clew of asymmetrical. At the same time start to ease the working sheet. You are tying have the clew of the sail and the boat all in line 180 degrees down wind at the same time. One straight line as the wind comes over the stern. At this time release the working sheet and as the bow of the boat is coming around to the new course then start trimming with the new working sheet.
This can be done very smoothly if tension is kept on the sheets and if it is done slowly but deliberately.
I have not had much luck doing inside gybes.
I'd check a few things - 1; the tension on the spi halyard - probably could use more tension to keep the sail "straighter". 2nd - check the knot on the spi head. Maybe look at using a swivel / pulley / locket if the knot doesn't allow that much motion for a 180° gybe. 3rd, on an ASY, on an internal gybe you need to maintain control of the windward sheet all thru the gybe - take the slack in to just before the center point then release slowly- just like the main or a 135 genoa, then a push the tiller to ease the hull off more quickly, release the sheet tension as the boat gybes, and maybe a bit of help on the new windward sheet. Best bet is to spend an afternoon out there doing gybes - say 1 every 30 seconds and decompose the manoeuver until things go smoothly. If you're getting the head of the sail stuck in the foresail rigging, something's not going as it should on the gybe - I can't think of a design issue that would make an internal gybe problematic. Practice makes perfect!John, I been thinking about that also. My boat is a 30 foot Bene with a fractional rig.
The spinnaker halyard is from the top of the mast. However, my jib halyard exits the mast about 2 feet down then runs through a retainer about another foot down before it runs to the roller furling swivel.
I can get a good set on one tack but when I do a inside gybe, the spinnaker halyard wedges up under the retainer and curls the head of the sail.
My last boat was a fast one, easily broad reaching at 1.3x windspeed. We would do inside jibes, sometimes never having the wind come aft - basically a tack be cause the boat never fell below windspeed. Strictly a racers trick on very high performance boats. My new boat is a slower one and an inside jibe would never work. All outside jibes.Bubb,
Interesting that your experience with inside vs outside jibes differs from mine so markedly.
I have never been a big fan of outside jibes, except in heavy air, due to the need to mind the lazy sheet and keep it from getting pulled under the boat. And we never seem to have any difficulty driving down, easing the working sheet forward until the clew is even with the headstay, then hauling the sail through with the lazy sheet.
That said, all my experience has been on boats with effectively large foretriangles (either by virtue of the fixed sailplan or due to running sprits). But I could see where a boat with a relatively small foretriangle might have more difficulty with an inside jibe due to the tight geometry.
Max, We already covered this. The O.P. was in fact asking about TACKING a Code 0. It does not have to be extreme duress or accidental circumstances. Sometimes, particularly on light and fickle days, a sudden wind reversal near the nominally leeward mark will make a tack the better option. We did this more than once on our Melges 24, as did the rest of the fleet. I described to the O.P. how we did it.I guess not many sailors read sailing books anymore. Please excuse, but There are so many errors in this discussion that i am forced to intervene.
Spinnakers "gybe" not tack except under the most extreme duress of crew and accidental circumstances.
I disagree. Rather, the problem seems to be a misunderstanding of its intended purpose.The ATN tacker is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. If you think you need one you really need some training or to do some more reading on spinnaker handling.
That IS the way our mast was designed to be used. That was my point. There is more than one way to skin a cat. There are lots of different boats sailing all over the place.I h ts too!
You can get by with a lot of things for a short while, but 'things" should be treated the way they were designed to be used.