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first sailed january 2008
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I'm doing alot of dinghy riding these days. I actually think it's really fun! It's crazy fast. Also a great photography took as I had hoped. I have a fast af camera of course or it would not work as well.

Anyways. As I'm sure you all know during the heat of the day it's pretty tight and as night comes, and I do do a lot of riding at night it's a bit too deflated.

I would like to pump it up at night and get it tight at night and then really tight during the day. It's already maxed out ôn foot pump pressure during hot days.

But...I don't want anymore problems, not least of all overinflating my dinghy at night and when it heats up and expand it puts too much strain on something. Maybe the glue that holds the fiberglass to the hypalon. I seriously doubt it would pop. But I want to keep it nice for a long time. So I ask. That's all I ask.

Bonus question being lights(don't go back and read my thoughts on those from last year). Is it silly to put running lights and a small battery on a 9 foot RIB? I was thinking LED with those nice waterproof wires running to the smallest battery I can find. I even have a 7watt rollable solar panel from last year that could be hooked to the battery. Laid over a tube.

Good idea or stupid? Also, how would you make mounts for the lights? The stern could go next to the engine in the fiberglass but the other two would have to have some kind if tube mount. Or ideas? I've got the time.
 

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I'm doing alot of dinghy riding these days. I actually think it's really fun! It's crazy fast. Also a great photography took as I had hoped. I have a fast af camera of course or it would not work as well.

Anyways. As I'm sure you all know during the heat of the day it's pretty tight and as night comes, and I do do a lot of riding at night it's a bit too deflated.

I would like to pump it up at night and get it tight at night and then really tight during the day. It's already maxed out ôn foot pump pressure during hot days.

But...I don't want anymore problems, not least of all overinflating my dinghy at night and when it heats up and expand it puts too much strain on something. Maybe the glue that holds the fiberglass to the hypalon. I seriously doubt it would pop. But I want to keep it nice for a long time. So I ask. That's all I ask.

Bonus question being lights(don't go back and read my thoughts on those from last year). Is it silly to put running lights and a small battery on a 9 foot RIB? I was thinking LED with those nice waterproof wires running to the smallest battery I can find. I even have a 7watt rollable solar panel from last year that could be hooked to the battery. Laid over a tube.

Good idea or stupid? Also, how would you make mounts for the lights? The stern could go next to the engine in the fiberglass but the other two would have to have some kind if tube mount. Or ideas? I've got the time.
The manufacturer of your inflatable will have stipulated the maximum inflation pressure of the tubes. Check the owner's manual, often available on-line if you no longer have the document, and act accordingly. Simple pass-through pressure gauges are available from both the SailNet Store and Defender (e.g. see Marine Air Pump Parts & Accessories on Sale) Inflate the dinghy during the heat of the day, not at night. Over pressurization can/will cause seam failure.

For lighting, likewise see Marine Portable Navigation Lights on Sale. We use the Inovative LED lights which have proven more durable than the Aqua Signal lights (hint: store them until needed without the batteries installed!). We have a stern light mount on the top of our engine cowling but, from a previous threat, another alternative for the all-around stern light appears below.

Good luck...
 

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eggzactly

north ocean avoid doing exactly that DO NOT PUMP UP TIGHT AT NIGHT...if you do you MUST deflate a bit before the sun starts shining

just like a tire or tube you have max PSI stipulated on your owners manual and almost always neer tha placard or valves on the dinghy.

an overinflated dinghy is the best way to cut the lifespan in half or more...seems start to stretch, valves leak, etc...
 

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when we were cruising every day we would let out some air before midday...or simply never inflate it all the way...that makes the valves last longer by not constantly messing with them.

another trick is to oil the valves and springs every once in a while as it will keep them lubricated and prevent leaks...some have an oring some are just plastic peices...

if it was a reaaaaaaaaaaaally hot day for some reason a release(push of the button) or 2 of the valves before sitting on the tubes was enough.

when storing a RIB on deck for a cruise we always had the tubes half inflated and covered the tubes and bottom with a cover...

in tropical latitudes this is a must...the seams, fabric, stitching in some cases could degrade enough on a single passage if uncovered...
 

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yes with just your thumb it should indent an inch or 2 at least, but try different pressures

another trick is simply go by what your foot pump tells you...you will notice the pumo start doing half pumps and almost no pumps when max pressure has been reached, when you reached that

let out an equal amount of air from each valve to be at the "perfect" amount

that way works too
 

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How tight should it feel web pressed on at the hottest part of the day? Should you be able to significantly push it in?
We're talking about dinghies right? grin

I'd say you shouldn't be able to significantly depress the tubes. I can't depress my inflatable tubes 2 inches. I'd say it feels like a basketball, a soccer ball, or tennis ball....(maybe a slightly less) depending on your sport.

More like your forehead than your cheek.. ;-)

The gauge is really helpful along with the manufacturers recommendations
 

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wow now were are getting technical!

not to be quirky here but a tennis ball can be completely compressed even when new....but I agree compared to a soccer and basketball Id go with a tennis ball for comparison

oh another non technical visual way to check for how much air is good is if you get any wrinkles(creases) anywhere you are too low...they usually appear where you sit and close to the tranom
 

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I've had the lights that look like flashlights. They didn't last as they were not really waterproof and were difficult to keep in place.

Now we have this light with the accompaning pole mount.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|294|2312556&id=2217408


It is excellent. I don't even tie it to the pole anymore, the magnetic attachment works so well.

Regards,
Brad
 
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I've had the lights that look like flashlights. They didn't last as they were not really waterproof and were difficult to keep in place.

Now we have this light with the accompaning pole mount.

Navisafe Navi light Tri-Color LED Navigation Light


It is excellent. I don't even tie it to the pole anymore, the magnetic attachment works so well.

Regards,
Brad
Brad we use the same light. Fits the bill is simple and we don attach it to stern mounted pole
 

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I've had the lights that look like flashlights. They didn't last as they were not really waterproof and were difficult to keep in place.

Now we have this light with the accompaning pole mount.

Navisafe Navi light Tri-Color LED Navigation Light


It is excellent. I don't even tie it to the pole anymore, the magnetic attachment works so well.

Regards,
Brad
(5) Operating modes:

All on – Tri-color navigation light (135° white, 112.5° red, 112.5° green)
White only – Stern navigation light
Red and green – Bi-color navigation light
Red only – Port navigation light
Green only – Starboard navigation light
Just curious - I thought that motorized boats (including motorized dinghies) needed red/green, and then 360° white. (That's why sailboats have steaming lights.) It seems from the description that this light does not meet that requirement because it can't do 360° white light at the same time as the red/green . What gives?
 

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Just curious - I thought that motorized boats (including motorized dinghies) needed red/green, and then 360° white. (That's why sailboats have steaming lights.) It seems from the description that this light does not meet that requirement because it can't do 360° white light at the same time as the red/green . What gives?
It doesn't meet the standards without the 360 degree white.
 

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"Drum tight" was the general advice given to me if I didn't have a pressure gauge to hand. And in these parts, a dinghy is required to have the same lights if operating under power at night as any other powered vessel under a certain size, YMMV.
 
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